Keith Browning

Hold on there Baba-Louie! It was a Norco hoist and an older model to boot. That hoist was 2000 lb capacity and probably not intended primarily for heavier diesel engines. So compare apples to apples when shopping around, i.e. - weight ratings. The OTC stuff we have is 4400 lbs for the hoist and 2000 lbs for thew stand so shop and compare the Norco stuff with similar capacity ratings. As I mentioned, larger wheels and casters are desirable though so keep that in mind.

Yes, Bruce has quite a few cutaways as I understand and he has been kind enough to post several in our PhotoPost area as well as in many posts. I love cutaways myself. They give you a perspective on these engines you cant get otherwise. Actually, it would be cool to have a cutaway gallery... but there are pics as I mentioned.

Dwayne, don't forget that there is a big safety factor here. If you have to struggle to turn an engine you are probably doing something that could induce a failure or incident. Case and point. Once upon a time I was removing a 7.3L from a truck with a Norco engine hoist that was almost at capacity with that engine on it. The wheels on the hoist were 3 inchers and the weight distribution was not very balanced. To get an engine to start rolling I would have to jerk the hoist and continue doing so because the hoist did not want to roll. This set up a bounce on the engine and then something snapped! The engine hit the floor about a foot from my feet. By the way, diesel engines don't bounce. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif Our new OTC hoist has nice big 7 inch wheels and the PSD's we pull are comfortably within it's rated capacity. It rolls easily and confidently. As for the engine stand it is a similar concept. The engine is confidently supported and it can be safely turned with the crank. The importance of the proper equipment cannot be overlooked.

Modules, throttle bodies... ironically, PCM's are now off our list which is actually smaller than it has been in the last few years.

Oh lookie! It's a TSB now. 2006-2007 TSB 08-06-05 LCF - RATTLE UNDER CAB OVER BUMPS - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 12/3/2007 I thought of using washers in the prop hinges but I didn't have anything that worked. The grease was a last attempt idea before accepting defeat... after all, the customer wasn't complaining, it just annoyed ME while on a road test.

I thought I had a topic going on this a few months back and cant seem to find it. It was an 06 E450 that was towed in a few times for a no crank/no start condition. I assisted the tech who drifted off in the wrong direction and we quickly determined that the fuel heater was shorted causing the PCM power relay to open. I don't know why Ford had to tie those two to the same fuse?!?! He replaced the HFCM and the fuse, we didn't give it another thought. It was towed back in a couple of weeks later and for some reason I draw a blank as to what was done, maybe a clogged fuel filter... truck leaves only to return on a hook a day later. Now it's mine and I discovered the PCM/fuel heater fuse open again. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif So I isolated the circuit by disconnecting everything again and once again, found the fuel heater shorted! No shit! I called the Hot-Line on this for some reason and the Engineer told me that he had a run in with this when he was still a tech shortly before coming to Ford. "Look for rust on the fuel heater plate in the HFCM. You will have to destroy it to gt it out" So I did and this is what I found. Long story short, rust can still retain conductive properties of the metal. Remember, this HFCM/heater is only a couple of weeks old. The fuel inlet of the HFCM dumps the fuel right onto this heater assembly and if there is rust in the fuel, guess where it lands? So, a new HFCM, fuel tank and sender this puppy has not been seen since. P.S. I could swear I posted this and I was just waiting to add the picture. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Jeff those engine adapters are really nice to have. I remember the 6.oL literature at Ford Service training had a printout for the 6.0L adapters and they were for the Norco stand. My OTC stand is sweet but I have to use universal adapters which can be a pain to set up. Needless to say I don't have any nifty engine specific adapters.

We have the OTC with the crank. THe Rotunda label has the tool number on it - 014-00106 - really stable. I like it.

Is an ECM core worth anything? I have one from a 2008 that works... with a bad driveability concern. Ford shoved the entire claim up our asses because we didn't get approval from RTDA on a PCM FORD TOLD US TO INSTALL!!! I was told to chuck it.

Tim, I got my Comm adapter firmware updated and set up successfully. Forking fine. Thanx for the help! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

The hose nozzle is on it's last leg and it squirts like an old man peeing so we didn't have much pressure or volume. The water flowed freely. The hoses did in fact show a distinct difference until we raised the RPM's. It's the gurgling noise that has us and if it wasn't for that I would agree with you 100%. At this point I am not discounting anything though and this one will be one to remember regardless of what the outcome is. Good thing that core comes out fairly easily. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

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More on this. I dealt with the customer this morning. When we returned to the dealership I noticed a loud gurgling noise from the heater core after shutting the engine off. The customer also insists this started months ago after we replaced his EGR cooler. Hmmm. With no other symptoms, coolant usage, overheating, coolant loss or overflow we thought it hard to believe this is base engine related. We ran this by our FSE and some other people at Ford and they know of a few instances of air pockets forming in the heater cores. Remember the older Taurus? Uh huh. So, we checked the heater core for flow and found it to be free flowing. I suggested to the tech that he lay it on a bench, fill it with coolant and cap it before reinstalling it, fill the system until coolant comes out of the heater hoses before connecting them. He was still putting it together when I left for the night... I'll let you know if this fixes it. Yeah, I know. An air pocket? It's not far fetched. I just don't recall having this problem ever with a Super Duty. And just for the record, the water pump and front cover still have not been inspected despite my rcommendation.

Jim there have been many a time you have stated this and in different ways, but the message never loses it's significance.

Now, recal 07S57 was supposed to correct/prevent what? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I am pretty sure the tech is going to find a restricted heater core but I have to ask if anyone has run into a 6.0L SD that the heat gets cold when idling, say at a traffic light. Accelerate and the heat gets hot again. No other cooling system concerns or overheating. He did install an new thermostat and vacuum pump on prior repairs. I also recommended removing the water pump to inspect it's condition...

Sounds like a relocation opportunity. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

Larry, I copied that directly from the recall notice. Had my hands on a NEW tube when I made the post.

Motorcraft Electrical Grease II XG-15-A I looked at the tube we have, the compound is white as opposed to the clear dielectric grease. It obviously is a different compound. The tube we have stays in the parts department and is used as needed and returned. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

I do have a concern about this though. I vividly recall my first encounter with one of these d-rings in the injector inlets. I played around with it a little and found removing the snap ring a wee-bit difficult. I am sure I scraped up the injector doing it and likely created metal debris.

No. There is nothing good to say about a member losing access rights to our community regardless of the reason or situation surrounding it. As far as the locked topic goes, it had become more about the poster than the topic in a unnecessarily negative and somewhat disrespectful way. I really have nothing else to say about it.

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Ford could market it to 6.0L owners and rename it the "Dinghy." dinghy [ding-gee] -noun, plural -ghies. 1. any small car designed as a tender or lifeboat, esp. a Super Duty's, rowed, sailed, or driven by a motor. 2. a car used by ford pick-up owners, having a four cylinder diesel engine. 3. any of various bailing or escaping cars used on sheltered roads along the American highways to transport stranded passengers and cargo. 4. a reliable life raft.

Great little tip. I feel like I always fight that upper support. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

You ain't kidding! I have been bitten a few times in the past by bad sets of injectors. Get a truck in running very poorly, missing hard on one or more cylinders - replace the flagged offenders only to have more from the bunch begin to drop out. All of those turned out to have had low fuel pressure and fuel quality issues (rusted fuel tanks) It's no fun accessing injectors three times only to realize the whole set was shot.