Keith Browning

One of my team mates was replacing a leaking hub seal. Put the hub back on and set the wheel bearing and the hub was really hard to turn. So I looked at it and we took it back apart - the seal was undamaged and everything was assembled properly. We reassembled it and checked it. Still tight. I told him to put another seal in it which he did and it was tight as well. We are assuming that this is normal and the seal needs to settle in. Wondering if anyone has seen this before.

I remember watching this. The thing the struck me the most is that "you can't trust a mechanic" which seemed to the the only message. And, the guy in the video was or is a tech? It kills me, people think that if they have a code, they know exactly whats wrong and how to fix it. I also think it is a good idea for any consumer of products OR services to be informed and at the very least be aware if things don't seem right. I'm just sick and tires of constant negative bashing our industry takes.

Also make sure the charge is correct. I recently had a Transit doing the same thing and I realized I mistakenly thought it had reat air and put too much refrigerant in it. I am sure this is not the case but you never know.

"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."

If it has bounced around to several dealers my guess is that it's not something obvious. I have had 6.7L trucks in with a lack of power but they all had something going on; bad turbo, de-laminated fuel tanks, clogged filters, plugged cats and usually DTC's to point me in the right direction. If you have little to go on I strongly suggest that you be able to verify the concern and be ale to duplicate it before digging in. If you can do that then you can make some data recordings while the low power condition occurs if normal diagnostics do not reveal anything.

It has been a while but I am pretty sure I get those out with the dash in place. Couldn't tell you how for the life of me though.

And if you replace the pump do remember to replace the discharge tube seals. I have seen them burn techs several times.

Thanx for the tip. I took a step back and reassessed. The add on crankshaft pulley had the Ford logo and a part number on it. Its from the 5.4L Lightning supercharger kit. Looked up a lightning water pump and there it was! The pump to removed had 8 impeller blades and the new one has 7 slightly larger blades so I think it will work just fine. It bolted right in and does not bind so I am keeping my fingers crossed. They actually ordered me a Gates 41121

I am working on a 2005 F450 with a 6.8L engine that has an engine mounted hydraulic pump. The pump uses it's own belt which means there is an add-on pulley on the crank. The water pump has an extended nose where the fan screws on - about 2" or 52mm as measured. Anyone familiar with this and have any idea where to source one?

Officially totaled. Picking out a new one, made the wife feel better. Getting the same truck but with an all black interior.

It's a Ford Red Carpet lease - yes, it has gap insurance to cover any difference.

Actually my wife's new Explorer. Two months old and hadn't even had it's first oil change. A young driver pulled out of a side street with a stop sign right in front of her as she was traveling with traffic while moving about 35-40 MPH. They hit and turned the Explorer across the opposing lane and off the road hitting a storm drain an embankment and took out a fire hydrant. She had no injuries thankfully. The Explorer is junk. Both lower control arms are broken, subframe is pushed back, ripped from the front. Our adjuster said just from the description from the recovery peeps it hit "severely high" on the repair estimate tool. She has all but written it off without even seeing it. I sent them pics and they will inspect it today when they take it to their holding yard so we should know for sure soon. To me it does not look that bad and think it will buff out but the experts say this is severe damage. Blew the right curtain and drivers airbags. Notice she juuuuust missed the pole. Otherwise things would have turned out differently I am sure.

Actually, I looked back at the files I have and I created the PDS files for several of the books that did not exist including the older rare books. Sooo, fuck the DTS and fuck me. That's how it goes on the Internet. After 12 years, I am used to it. One thing I do not stand for is webmasters who pull content directly from my server. Alliant Power ripped off the coffee table books page literally pulling the images from my server every time the bulletin was loaded in someone's web browser and directly linked to the files. I changed the download code and using "behind the scenes" code replaced the images served to the bulletin with some... lets just say, not nice ones. I did something similar to Flat Rate Tech as well. I can switch content or redirect requests from an I.P. address or domain. I am a relentless bastard when it comes to being dissed.

This is why saving old harnesses is crucial. I have a box of connectors cut off with about 6 to 8" of wire. The shop has a box going as well.

I don't own the rights to any of the material, I just took the time to collect them all including the older hard to find books. I think I made the pdf document for the first two because they did not exist. With that said I can't speak for what Ford Motor Co might think but nothing has ever been said to me. I don't think Facebook needs them. They are freely available here and elsewhere otherwise I would have made them available on the DTS Facebook page. Facebook also has rules about posting Copyrighted materials

I was always going by injector trims of + or - 9 or more required attention.

Jeeze look at the date sticker!

What you need to understand is that when EGR coolers fail in a big way it is common for the EGT valve to get a steam cleaning and will usually look almost brand new if subjected to that condition long enough. In this case you need to remove a chunk of that carbon and break it up - looking for light streaks of gray or noticeably lighter colored carbon that is typically quite hard and crumbly. You will find that when an EGR cooler develops a very minor leak and passes the coolant in small amounts. Look for the DTS article on "EGR Marbles" for a complete write up and pictures on this.

Looks like that EGR cooler has been leaking for a while. The hard crust is the evidence of coolant build up. If clogged, cleaning that port in the intake will prove difficult and time consuming. I either use a local radiator shop that will hot tank them or I replaces them.

Only pump I saw like that seized up from DEF. I sent it to Bruce who dissected it. Is that pump seized? I ask because the one I mentioned took out the engine by causing the crankshaft timing gear to rotate before the engine stopped.

No. This is not a "factory" service. We have our own services with a lot of that BG crap added into it. You know, flush this, wipe that, dump a bunch of shit in the fuel tank, trans, engine and cooling system,

My writer sold a "30K" service at the desk today. I had to ask him what is done for that service. Sad... but true.

I was working on a new 2017 Transit that has an SCR efficiency code. Pinpoint tests have you monitor the NOx sensors, close the EGR valve and so on. Well, using the WSM and the guided diagnostics, the bidirectional control would not work. So O closed the WSM and tried the test with IDS and I got the PID control back but the NOx sensors would not show a reading. I was supposed to raise the idle to get EGT 12 up to 392*F but it never got there so I am not sure if that was causing that. I have seen NOx modules not come on line until certain EGT readings were met on F-Series so I am assuming that was it. I later had to road test to check the NOx reduction at steady cruise and I DID have NOx 11 and 12 display. Some of this stuff is really trying my patience.

MBASIC17 - 4.9 hrs for engines without oil contamination. Soooo what if it does have oil contamination? And I am assuming that this is only for the primary system because the op does not state one or the other or both. I also took a minute to read the 107 step procedure which answers the question as to why so much time. I don't think that it is all that generous to be honest.

Well, despite all of the new parts no matter how new they actually are you obviously have a leak. New injectors and standpipes a year ago means nothing. You could have a seal that was damaged during assembly and has gotten worse with use. I would not discount anything at this point so If you have told yourself that it cant be under the valve covers it might be time to have a look and perform an air check. Intermittent to me suggests a bad o-ring. Many I have diagnosed were intermittent leakers that there was still some sort of sealing: not blown out but just deteriorated just enough to start causing trouble.