Keith Browning

Had a used truck run through the shop this week that our sales dept wanted to sell. Had exhaust leaks from the fairly new exhaust manifolds. I got it apart and found the lower part of the front flange cyl #1 was cracked completely clean off the manifold. The cylinder head was heavily corroded around the lower stud leaving at least an 1/8' gap which explains the broken manifold. Weighing options it was suggested to try grinding it clean and building it back up using JB Weld. Seemed hokey to me but I gave it a try after reading the product specifications. I built up the cylinder head and carefully ground it flat checking it with a straight edge. Reassembled and verified the repair. Anyone ever try something like that? Obviously a new head is the best repair but its one of those heavily corroded trucks with more issues than the head. After having done this I believe I would have done this if it were my truck.

PTS > Diagnostic Tool Support > IDS Support > IDS Troubleshooting Guide and find the file download on that page. Save it to your desktop for easy locating and double click the file and run it. It does the job credibly. "cleanupids.exe" You cant just delete folders. You must use the uninstall tool to remove ALL traces and clean the system registry.

Contrary to what the WSM procedure tells you, the down pipe catalyst does not need to be removed. As a matter of fact, because the fasteners tend to screw with you (at least for me they do) it makes sense. All it requires is that you back the studs out of the turbo outlet. This one had a failed center bearing that also dumped some oil in the exhaust. It would not make any boost but it made a cool humming sound. And if you need to remove the aftertreatment injector, an oxygen sensor crows foot is recommended,

The pinpoint tests seem ridiculous because there are several possible causes or systems that cause DEF or SCR efficiency faults. I recently posted about a truck that has suffered from insufficient maintenance causing the crankcase vent to pass excessive oil poisoning the catalysts. Never expected that! I am sure that I am not alone in stating that I have repaired more than one truck by doing several things and have no idea what really did it. Some trucks need multiple component replacement while other others have something easily identified and repaired. Probably the best advise I an offer is to approach each one of these without a pre-conceived notion and follow the diagnostic routine... as annoying or crazy as that sounds. It comes down to either an obvious malfunction OR eliminating possible causes with the latter seeming to be the more common path unfortunately.

Update on this truck is that I cleaned out the openings for the breather and installed a new one, changed oil and filter, cleaned out the CAC system and performed several manual regenerations. The smoke is gone however the P20EE is now pending again after a couple good road tests. I monitored the NOx sensors and there does not seem to be much NOx reduction going on. There is a notable drop when the DEF injector is active but it's not enough. Quoted a new catalyst assembly and sensors. Change you fucking oil! Side note: cats are backordered due to excessive demand. See you next month.

When I recently traded in my 07 Freestyle, the CVT had been making that helicopter noise at idle for about 2 years. I remember pricing out the parts but just never had the time... or the desire to fix it either. At 89k if is not knocking at idle you will probably be alright. I would change the fluid if you do not know when or if it has been serviced. Ford's CVT transaxle went away after 2007 if my memory serves me...

In comes a 2015 F450 mason dump owned buy the City of Orange here in NJ. Complaint: white smoke and regeneration message keeps coming up on the message center. No mention of the check engine light that was on. Typical. So I drive it, runs okay but after a few minutes I started seeing moderately heavy white smoke. Hook up IDS and pull P20EE (SCR NOX Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) ) and P04DB (Crankcase Ventilation System Disconnected ) from memory. Passes KOEO and KOER. I began with the diagnostics for the DTC's After performing inspections of the turbo, disconnecting the downpipe and the DOC, removing NOx sensors and inspecting I found little to no evidence of oil as I was expecting. A LOT of carbon however. I noticed the tailpipe looked oily and had a lot of dirt stuck to it. I'm thinking turbo - right? Engine oil level 3 qts over fill, oil drain plug over tightened to the point I needed a ratchet to remove it all the way and the oil smelled funky. When I pulled off the crankcase vent and oil separator I discovered that oil sludge was blocking the oil drain and there was quite a bit of oil carry over in the CAC. I cleaned out the soft sludge, replaced the vent and performed an oil and filter change. Road tested and the smoke was instantly gone. I want to perform a couple of manual regens and see if the aftertreatment catalysts clean up and the numbers look right. This goes to show that sometimes it's not what you expect. Keep looking! 12,144 miles 2295 engine hours (57,353 equivalent miles) 1344 idle hours Unknown number of oil changes - suspect 2

That adapter kit is essential.

Funny how I seem to be able to make my basic OTC press work just fine. For $715 USD you can keep it. But I am glad you are excited about it! Aside from that I am pleased that you also took the time to post your experience on this tool. Would love to see more of this.

A Ford Quality Repainted engine of course!

Thoughts? If either the base timing was off, its a phaser issue or the alternator ripple affecting one cam then wouldn't you expect it to affect 4 cylinders?

I just went a second round with a truck with a P207F but this time the check engine light went off and the DEF message disappeared on it's own. Try and diagnose that one. I ran the gauntlet of tests again only to gome up empty handed. I replaced the DEF injector purely on suspicion.

I noticed while doing PDIs on these that the radiators are now held in with plastic wing nuts on the top and they just slide up and out like a cartridge and then you just slide the new one back in and run the wing nuts down.

You are close... its a roll of tape with the image of a dead mouse with an X for the eyes. I had to research the tape to find out what makes it "rodent proof." I didn't think mice could read but do they recognize images? The tape is an electrical tape treated with super-spicy capsaicin, which is the active ingredient in chili peppers that makes them "burn."

After observing this a couple more times I have confined that this is normal. I watched the entire event from cold start monitoring the NOx sensors, EGT sensors, reductant line pressure and reductant injector duty cycle. After the EGTs heat up - over 300* the NOx 1 will ramp up to 1791 PPM for about 10 seconds, come back down then start reading. Then, NOx 2 will ramp up to just under 500 PPM fo about 10 seconds and come down and begin reading. This is on pre 2017 trucks with dual sensors. I imagine the single sensors would exhibit similar behavior.

You could simply secure the harness with a zip tie to prevent movement.

Keep at it. Some trucks require multiple repairs. I have had ONE truck that I could not completely cure. Some needed a combination of things from the track bar, shocks, stabilizer and alignment. Some of the older trucks (previous body style) even got new steering wheels as per a TSB which made no sense to me as it was only the one's with the radio controls in the wheel... or was it the one's without?

I have another P207F fault that passes all pinpoint tests and inspections. So instead of just loading up the ol parts cannon I decided to start looking at some things individually thinking I might stumble onto something. I did but I am not convinced yet this is normal. This is a 2015 F450 6.7L. NOx2 was replaced 1500 miles ago for the same code. I am monitoring NOx1 and NOx2 from a cold start while setting the RPM's at 1500 and the VGT at 100% to aid warmup. Figured I would sit there and eat my snack while I watch the screen and then go for a road test. Well, I noticed NOx1 quickly rise to 1791 PPM and flat line there for about 20 seconds then drop to 190 and it inched up from there. All that time NOx2 was pinned at 0 PM and the reductant line was primed and no injector duty cycle. I honesty cant say I have never seen this before because I have never looked. I ran this by the Hot Line and they responded that it is normal for those sensors to be erratic when they come on line. Well, I am undecided on whether I believe that because NOx2 did not do the same thing and I dont consider a quick rise and a high flat line "erratic" or am I splitting hairs here. I did not have another like truck to look at to compare. I pulled in a 2017 and monitored the sensors but they were doing something totally different. From the start those sensors were at 2000 PPM and then after warm up dropped to normal expected levels. Anyone with any experience or incite regarding this? I ordered a sensor for shits and giggles so I may end up spinning it in and redoing the test. If it acts the same I will likely load a new reductant injector and send it off, I am sick and tired of spending time with these and getting nowhere. I hate firing parts at them but it gets to a point where you have little option.

An '06 E-Series school bus for 8 injectors and coolers... I pulled a muscle in my lower back last Wed and the job is fuckin killiin me!!! Its basically done but I still need to replace the DFCM and replace the rusted tank which of course is a full 50 gallons. I love these local municipalities. They brought it in for a vibration that gets better when they turn off overdrive. It ran so poorly, on 5 cylinders once warmed up, that I would not road test it fearing that I would get 10 minutes away from the shop and the fuel rail would fill with combustion gases and die on the highway. Damn thing would not even start without a little MAF sensor cleaner. WTF!!! (its the pain talkin)

Grease is not the best lubricant for fuel filter o-rings - its too thick AND every time I have trouble getting a cap off because the o-ring was resisting it showed signs of grease. Use clean engine oil. I use a bottle of 75/140 synthetic axle lube on my bench with the squirt top because it seems to be very slick. Oils seem to allow the o-ring to roll back into its original shape easier. I liberally lube the o-ring before pitting or on the cap or the housing and then the caps sealing surface just before installing. NEVER have an issue.

Its a 16 connect that the audio head back lighting goes OUT about 25% of the time when turning on the lights. This only happens when the dimmer is set to full brightness and can be duplicated with ease. Anyone see or hear of this? Engineering is befuddled. Two radios and a dimmer switch were thrown at it. Wiring checked and overlaid... the power comes directly from the BCM and the circuit feeds everything that illuminates in the dash on the same circuit so I kinda have to scratch my head too. A lot of peeps looking at this...

Good Luck! Wishing I could do the same but I have no alternative, at least not anything that pays what I am making now. *sigh*

A lot of the younger guys have no idea what a problem those DMF were and how they make an idling engine shake like a 3-lb chihuahua shaking and pissing itself. And I can't believe I correctly spelled chihuahua!

Munchkins