Keith Browning

Jim, I recently set up an old tuner and speakers in the top of my toolbox. I am using an on-line music service as well. It does not matter what is playing. I turn it up just enough to drown out the constant rantings and juvenile acts that come from the shop asshole. Similar to the Yukon Yap... but childish, vulgar, antagonizing and it never stops! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

This is an interesting topic, especially as it relates to a flat rate situation. But getting the truck diagnosis our job after all. I recall a thread over on TDS of some clown boasting that he and his engineer friend had put fuel gages on the rear of the cylinder heads on a Super Duty and went for a ride. The claim was if I recall that there was a 30 PSI drop at the heads because of the check valves being restrictive. I decried the claim and the likeliness of installing fittings at the rear of the heads easily as bunk. While not impossible, not easily done. In a van this is a different story. Anyone save any fuel lines from the LCF fuel line recall? I did and as soon as I remember to rig up the necessary compression fitting to work with my fuel gage I will have a working set up. Remembering to bring the line with me when I hit the hardware-mecca-mega chain store is another story. I will probably realize that I forgot to order a banjo bolt when I go to use it the first time too. Good info and pics Bruce. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif My adapter will end up looking similar to yours... great minds think alike. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

Quote: Are you still needing to get it adjusted or have you managed to get it down the road? Nah, we determined that this thing should mimic the vacuum changes of a gas engine and set it accordingly. Now my number one tech has had the experience of dealing with a fuel spider. (injection pump and lines) 20 year old truck runs good! I remember the truck when it was new... therefore I am being told that I am old... not even 40 yet. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif

Ahh, but do they roll over the money in the account? I am pretty sure that I was issued a new card a few months ago... my current card expires this month with about $60 on it. If I have to I will hit the RTTP or withdraw the cash.

Quote: June 29, 2007 To: Ford Dealership Principals and Service Department Personnel Subject: Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) Based 6.0L Turbo & Control Valve Diagnostics NEW IDS DIAGNOSTIC ROUTINE A new Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) diagnostic routine has been developed for 6.0L Turbocharger and the Control Valve (VGT Solenoid). A pilot was conducted in January, 2007 with dealerships that have repaired a significant number of 6.0L turbos. The pilot Ford dealerships received free hardware and updated IDS software. The new hardware, IDS software and diagnostic routine were successful in helping the diesel technician determine root cause more efficiently. Therefore, we are providing the software and hardware to perform this diagnostic routine to the remaining non-pilot Ford Dealerships. REQUIRED ACTIONS Please make sure that: Your dealership's Service Manager is aware that this hardware will be arriving by July 16th. This diagnostic routine is used by your certified diesel technicians whenever Turbochargers and Turbo Control Valves (VGT Solenoids) are diagnosed. Labor operation 6005F38, which pays 0.6 hours, is used when claiming this repair. HARDWARE AND SOFTWARE DELIVERY Turbocharger and Control Valve Diagnostic hardware are being shipped as kit number TKIT-2007VP-F. The contents include: Part Number Description 418-626 VMM Vane Position Sensor Cable Kit 418-626/1 Vane Position Sensor Clamp 418-626/2 Vane Position Sensor 418-626/3 VMM Vane Position Sensor Cable These items will be shipped to the attention of the Service Manager. Shipping is expected to begin June 29th. Only one tool will be sent to each dealership P & A Code, regardless of the number of IDS units purchased. Additional quantities or replacements can be ordered by calling 1-800-ROTUNDA (768-8632) and choosing option #5 when prompted. The software will be available through the normal IDS software releases beginning with IDS release B49.6, released June 1, 2007. QUESTIONS For any questions regarding tool shipments please contact Bill Caines bcaines@ford.com (313)-845-8886 or Dan Wood dwood10@ford.com (313)-322-4501. For technical concerns when using the hardware and software, call the Technical Information Support group at the Technical Hotline 1-800-826-4694 Menu Option #1. And a picture of the test sensor and cable Bruce kindly posted a few months ago.

According to the manual Quote: Using a straightedge and a 0.15mm (0.006-inch) feeler gauge, check cylinder head gasket surface for warpage horizontally, diagonally and transversely. Check cylinder block deck for flatness in the same manner. Cylinder heads cannot be resurfaced. Replace cylinder head if it is cracked or warped. As for the injector cups, ABSOLUTELY! As Benjamin Franklin said; "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

Well the ordered pump came in today so we had to get off the pot so to speak. This one gets good, grab a beer... So I discussed this matter with the tech replacing the pump. He was 10 years old when the truck was new and I was still in technical school, working at our Dodge store. He might have seen an injection pump or two but I am confident in his abilities and he asks questions and opens the manual as needed. We thought we would get the old pump on the bench and determine how to adjust this vacuum valve after transferring it to the new pump. I decided to call the HotLine because I assumed they must have a 1987 manual archived somewhere. Right? Umm, no. Apparently not. Somebody PLEASE explain THAT to me!?!? This is Ford - God - damn - Motor - Company we are talking about. Wouldn't you think that they would have an electronic archive of manuals dating as far back as possible? What would Henry think about this? After explaining to the engineer what I have before me, he discussed this with another fellow there. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif He recommended that I play around with it and determine how it was set. Right with ya! I was looking for the official and proper way to set this thing and Ford Motor Company cant even help me out. So to satisfy my curiosity I proceeded to ask what exactly that valve "thingy" was called which might help me search for the answer. He responded by telling me this was an idle kicker that raised the idle when the AC compressor engaged. (this is after I told him it was a vacuum switch of some sort and the line connected to the transmission vacuum modulator.) The truck does not even have AC as if it matters and the idle kicker is electric and mounted on the other side of the pump. I thought "oh-no!" I said "okay, nice talkin to ya!" /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif C'mon now. I am fuckin smarter than this! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif It supplies vacuum to a transmission modulator on a C-6 just like a gasser. Wow. It is set to send 18" @ idle and less than 8" @ WOT... just like a gas engine would. Do I ask stupid questions or do I just ask for trouble? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

That is a shame. I think that anyone involved with these diesel trucks must be aware of the basics. Notice I said "aware" because asking them to be knowledgeable is asking too much. I am proud to say that my dealer is pretty well educated on this. I have seen the customer sheet and we had an in dealer Pow-Wow with our rep and some factory dude before the launch with hand outs and videos. Now if one would just break then I can use what I know too! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Well, some cranking data/PIDS would be a good place to start. ICP, RPM, ALL FICM Power PIDS, SYNC, FICM_SYNC... fuel pressure...

Did they tell you that they were developing this tool with Ford? That is what they told me! I was laughing on the inside yesterday as I was replacing a previously cleaned valve...

Wow! Its a 1987 F250 with a 7.3 IDI, C4-C6 transmission. Needs an injection pump, no big deal on that but it has a vacuum switch on the pump for the transmission. I am assuming this is set up like a FIPL switch. Can anybody verify the set-up/adjustment procedure for me? 1/2" between the idle stop screw and boss = vacuum flow? We will check the setting before disassembly (if we sell the job) so we know what we have. Our old shop manuals were all lost in the fire... yadda, yadda yadda... PTS doesn't go that far back as we all know.

Anybody racking up spins yet? I had one last week, spun for $5. I remember this being a week delayed from when the claims are posted so I should have a bunch coming my way.

Maybe they were hauling trailers loaded with DPF's. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

I don't understand the need to run anything off of the engine especially in such a cramped engine compartment. What is wrong with using a PTO on the transmission if the application allows for it? I realize there are things like augers and spreaders that need to be hydraulically powered with the vehicle moving but I see a lot of stuff that a PTO would work just fine. Wreckers and dump bodies to name two.

I for one am not in an uproar. Some of us may have been nipping at the Seagram's but I was gleefully sharing my thoughts with a smile. You did see me smiling didn't you? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Now where did I leave my friggin beer?

IT is nice to hear that the BG EGR flush works. I was told by our BG demonstrators that this was in the works. Now I will crank up the cynicizm... cuz I am skeptical of most, not all but most of these services. Given the facts you provided, most notably: "4 part chemical pack costs the dealer $100 and they pay the tech 3 to 4 hours. We are at 72 dollars an hour so it's between 400 and 500 dollars for the service" has got to be the most assinine thing I have heard to date. Having the entire intake manifold sparkly clean is neither necessary nor worth the money as there is always going to be traces of carbon lining the intake that have absolutely no effect on performance. The main issue with the EGR valves is the localized trapping of carbon at the upper port of the valve and the area immediately surrounding the mixer. This is what causes driveability concerns from sticking EGR valves and low flow conditions. I, in my most profoundly honest professional opinion, think that the manual scraping of carbon build-up and cleaning off with carburetor cleaner not only effective, it only takes up to 30 minutes depending on the severity of the build-up. Why would anyone in their right mind waste 4-5 hours doing something they can do in less than one? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif And I also stress the point that finding the root cause of the excessive carbon build-up is extremely important! Doing so would be a more constructive use of four hours and provide a more complete "service" to our customers... don't you think?

Tony, Discovered over time that an IDM or the harness connector falling off of the valve cover is far more likely than an injector failure. I have a test IDM which I always plug in before condemning anything else, especially on vans!

Awesome qustion! But did they answer it?

For a starter, you can read THIS THREAD which started talking about replacing injectors but ended with a lengthy discussion on the Topside Creeper. There are some good comments and info on it.

I thought the fuel cooler pump will only run for 10 minutes max after shut down? But this is an abnormal condition I suppose. I do know that the EGR valve makes a faint high pitched sound KOEO.

We had one run away on us and it too had fuel in the oil along with the turbine wheel breaking off after the turbo seized. The pics are in the Photos section under one of the " Engine Failure One " titles. We tore it down only to discover that the damage was long done, pistons melted, there was piston to head contact on both banks. A real mess. Most runaway engines will have pistons hitting something, a rod, head and definitely some valve whacking! Just pulling the heads will likely be enough.

I thought we agreed the only stupid question was the one that is not asked? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif I remember a thread from quite a while ago about this and had some good replies! I personally use Mopar rust penetrant because that is what I have around... it works just dandy. I still get a kick out of hearing that "ping" when the clamp pops loose! CLICKIE HERE!