Keith Browning

I finally got to meet my new FSE who was at my dealership looking at a few problem cars. I had a nice little conversation about diesels and he told me a couple of interesting things. With about a month to go before International plans on beginning production of the 6.4L, (don't know which version) there is a major design change. Apparently, the engine is having trouble meeting the emission standard and a combustion chamber shape change is being made. This likely involves both the cylinder heads and the pistons. On the same note, Ford/International are the only manufacturers trying to actually MEET the emissions standards in this class. From what I understand, the Cummins and the Duramax do not and both Chevy and Dodge have to use emissions points(?) and pay fines. I hope I got that right.

Ford officially put the new truck on the Ford Vehicles web site so I guess it rally has been officially announced. It ought to put an end to the ridiculous claims and speculation.

I am no expert but I do have to question the above line because if your computer is running the right software with a firewall it still does not matter where protecting your PC is concerned. I do agree that putting up every possible wall or shield of protecions you can is the best way to go about it. With either a wireless or wired network, if my computer is running it's own firewall then it really doesn't matter "who" is getting past my router in either instance. I know this as fact because I have tried to connect to both of my computers with my wireless laptop from Work. One of my home PC's is using the wireless part of my router and one is wired to the same router along with my cable modem and my printer. All wireless computers are connecting with 128 bit encryption and its own key which without they CANNOT connect to my network and onto the Internet. My point is, the even though all of my computers are "in" the network they cannot even see each other, let alone allow connections between them or from the Internet. I have tried, I have tried! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif As long as your computer is running a firewall and have file and printer sharing disabled you are pretty well protected. The way I have my PC's set up they are all almost running in true stealth mode. I say almost because even though I am running software that closes ALL NET BIOS PORTS I have read that is not totally fool proof. I don't believe any computer is impenetrable to an extremely skilled and determined hack. Try these links for information: http://www.grc.com/default.htm https://www.grc.com/port_113.htm

I caught that post a couple days ago on TDS... thought it was interesting, meant to post the photo. So is this the real Mc'Coy? ON EDIT 9/28: Apparently it is. Ford just posted a press release for the new truck and engine. Media Kit

Good info! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif I have always replaced the harness too. I now have several pigtails of good VC connectors laying around. ANYTIME you replace a harness try to keep it and cut all of the connectors off with 5 or 6 inches of wiring. I have a nice collection in a couple of boxes that every once and a while saves somebody's ass. Sometimes I only need a single pin from a connector. It may be a different color but it's the right pin.

I guess this truck is an 03 or early 04? I have seen a lot of those with the ICP sensor coming apart and leaking oil. Like KTMLEW stated, splice in a new harness pigtail too.

They are coming from some place in Wisconsin. I guess parts guys get burnt out too. Maybe I should add a new Forum for Parts.

Fuel lines from the fuel filter housing down along the left front of the engine - the chassis fuel lines connect to the other end. 1997 F350 7.3L PSD Parts list says its obsolete? F5TZ-9J338-C

Lemme tickle your brains a little... A 2000 7.3L with idle problems, I think the tech hasn't realized there are possibly two problems with the truck as it has an intermittent miss and it smokes, accelerates strong though. I was looking at the PIDS he had up and noticed that at idle the ICP was around 500 but the IPR % was down around 4.5 to 5. I assume the regulator may be stuck but I would like to know what the "normal" IPR values should be at hot idle. I can't seem to find a spec on this, no code for ICP. Disconnecting the ICP sensor does not smooth the idle out or even affect it.

According to the service manual the cylinder heads must come off to replace the sleeves. For many of us, removing the cab has proven to be the preferred method.

Right. But this discussion brought up something we, or at least I was not aware of. In theory, if the system expels coolant though the cap, there is something on the atmosphere side of the valve that is made from something that is not compatible with the coolant. Perhaps I'll start checking them to see if they hold at the rated pressure after letting coolant pass.

Thanx! You confirmed how I put it together. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

2006 Econoline: Does anyone know the proper assembly for the fitting o-rings and spacers? Do you know where in the manual this might be described or shown? I looked and looked... to no avail! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

Oh, sorry guys! That dinner turned into a long night with the in-laws. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sleep.gif Lookie here: 6.4LDesignActions-TRP.pdf

From said service manual: While this does not provide an answer as to WHY this is, it may suggest that the very presence of coolant overflow (staining) at the coolant bottle would warrant replacing the cap. Now, if the explanation about the materials used to produce the cap being incompatible with the very chemicals it's supposed to hold in, then I would say that there are some really freakin stupid people spec-ing out parts at Ford.

I DID! I DID! Cuz ya sent it to me. I'll stick it up on the server (later after dinner) and post the link. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Check your messages! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif

Watch your pressure sensors, MAP, MGP, MAF AND EBP (yes, it's still there) VGTP#, RPM EGRVP and EGRDC#. It takes time to get to understand what you are looking at with data and graphs but making the recording is the important part. In the shop you can use pinpoint test KA to help you find a stuck turbo. Raise the RPM's to 1200 and monitor MGP and EBP while ramping the VGT up to 85%. You should hear the turbo spool up and see a small rise in pressure on the sensors. If you can't see a pressure change by running the VGT up and down then you are looking at a non-responsive turbo. Your job is to find out why!

CRC makes a good MAF sensor cleaner. I think there is a topic about that in the chemicals topic area.

Kerry, welcome to the DTS! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Two things you should do. Never assume a reman turbo is properly operating. I have had two sticking right out of the box. Before you go nuts or start pulling parts off of the engine make a data recording of the fluttering event. I find the VDR to be the easiest to use because you can drive safely with the recording button close by and you don't need an "assistant" to drive while you watch sun glare in the WDS or IDS screen. Once you have a recording you should be able to find the cause. If not you can upload your recording(s) to the Hot Line and have them take a look at it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

Dirty MAF sensors. I have made it a general practice to clean the IAT2 and MAF sensors whenever I have a driveability concern or I have things apart. I had two odd ones though. A cracked y-pipe that PASSED the VGT Learn and did not set any other codes but the P0401. The other was an Econoline that had a very dirty air filter. Yeah, I know, it's not a 2003 engine in a Super Duty but it's worth mentioning.

I saw this topic over on another board. Has anybody noticed if there seems to be more problems coming from either of the two engine plants? Huntsville or Indianapolis? I thought that was an interesting question.

I thought this topic was about installing injectors! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif It's cool. Actually, I am getting interested in this topside creeper now. I bought a step from MAC tools thats about 18" high with a tool shelf mounted to the side. It's okay but I still need to pull myself up onto the trucks if I'm going in deep. It beats standing on bumpers which is neither safe for me or the owners paint or chrome. Good job posting links to all the on-line tool catalogs too! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Maybe we should start putting together our own directory of links.

Good advice! Patience is the key to this test because the air has to displace the engine oil or at least enough to open a path before it can leak. The oil is pretty thick on a cold engine. Since many of the trucks you would be performing this test on won't run so they will be cold... try plugging in the block heater and come back to it a few hours later. This helps on the smaller leaks at the injectors. By the way, I discovered this trick way back when we had all those injectors leaking fuel into the crankcase. Some would not leak when cold but when warmed up the dye began to show! I thought that was a really slick trick myself. I give the Hot Line credit for that one. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Jim, I am curious as to what the actual boost reading would be had you tee'd in a manual gage to the MAP sensor.