Keith Browning

I'll bet that if they designed the VGT actuator to operate using HPOP pressure, then no turbo COULD stick!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

Thats not being a smart ass - good advice is worth repeating. HOWEVER, not all trucks that come in with a turbo problem come in with a STUCK turbo and they test good in the service bay. I have had several that required extensive road testing and one I sent off on vacation with his 5th wheeler and our VCM. I think it's odd that we have yet to discuss... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif The Magnet test! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif

I don't see how we could reliably place a mileage figure on this because of all the variables related to sticking turbos. Rust could be caused by a long period of non-use at any time. How about the truck that runs really well and works hard leaving the turbocharger very clean... leaving it susceptible to surface rust? Excessive carbon could be caused by crap fuel or injection problems both of which could be experienced... at any time.

Thanx for the feedback and observations. And as for the inclusion of fleet managers and technicians - total segregation for these forums would be naive as fleets account for a great number of Ford vehicles - many of which are subjected to conditions and usage beyond that which most dealer guys will ever see. I do have a question though. If the Texaco product costs a little more and presents leaks, why would you have chosen it over another coolant such as the Motorcraft Gold coolant?

Kyle, Many of you fleet and municipal guys are more likely to be using different products that are out there on the market. At the dealer level most of us are using OEM products. We use a long life coolant which is gold in color. I would say that as long as the coolant meets the specifications required by the manufacturer and DOES NOT contain any chemicals that could harm the engine. Perhaps you could tell US what you have been using and what, if any, problems there are using the product in question. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif In some aspects we live in a sheltered world! As you know, our diesel customers are like no others. If we were to put red coolant in a truck that specifies gold coolant well that might be well taken!

Kyle, Many of you fleet and municipal guys are more likely to be using different products that are out there on the market. At the dealer level most of us are using OEM products. We use a long life coolant which is gold in color. I would say that as long as the coolant meets the specifications required by the manufacturer and DOES NOT contain any chemicals that could harm the engine. Perhaps you could tell US what you have been using and what, if any, problems there are using the product in question. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif In some aspects we live in a sheltered world! As you know, our diesel customers are like no others. If we were to put red coolant in a truck that specifies gold coolant well that might be well taken!

If Ford thinks theres a way to reliably un-stick turbos they are only kidding themselves. The several I have disassembled to see what condition they were in, all would have required a serious cleaning and at least one was not even salvageable. I would almost bet they might consider the reconditioning procedure. Since this burnt #3 piston thing is becoming more common I would rather recondition turbos than be replacing engines.

Sticking turbos. New turbo has fixed all of mine. Acually recorded the EGR opening to dump boost and slow down the turbo.

468 miles and in the shop for an oil leak. A brand spankin new 2006 F350. After some disassembly I discovered two cracks in the casting of the block on the right side of the oil cooler reservoir to the head. This is the second such defect I have come across with the first being about two years ago. Before I submitted my prior approval forms I called the Hot Line. The scary thing is that the engineer mentioned this was a known issue. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif Have any of you seen or heard of this? Lookie!

Here's a thought. If you stand in front of the truck and look at how the air enters the engine you might say it's pointed right at #3. The inlet neck comes from the drivers side and makes a sharp 90 degree turn down into the manifold. Maybe it's because its a shorter path with the EGR Throttle plate missing or the air just tends to continue swirling in that direction... food for thought

I will concur that info. IDS will work an any decent PC or notebook that meets the minimum system requirements. The advice about firewalls is very important. Not being logged onto mine threw me into a 2-hour circle jerk with the Hot Line. The key is to remember that! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif And Bruce is right, if you don't have one of the PC's that Ford sells don't expect any support. In my go around with support I was initially grilled for dealer information and verification.

You, as well as any member who "flies the nest" are always welcome here. Feel free to pick our brains, say hello or tell us all what color the grass is on the other side. Cheers!

Yeah, you posted something about the IAT2 sensor before and I started checking them. Always fouled so I clean them up and they work much better /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I also picked-up come CRC MAF sensor cleaner and use that regularly now.

Jim I have asked the HotLine engineers about this and their answers were for the most part the same as your response. On the 6.0 it is cyl#3 and on the 7.3 it is #5 & #7. Those cylinders are also more likely do show signs of dusting first as well. My curiosity lies in what causes cylinder temps to rise more and burn the piston. If all cylinders are fueled the same does this mean that #3 is running leaner? Better? and thus hotter?

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How many of you are finding cylinder number 3 burnt? I just opened up our third one. Engineering is indicating that this is is being caused by an over boost condition. I do advise checking those turbos any time an engine comes apart! Any one have more information? Anyone see any burnt up #3's?

Two questions for you: What is an a/m injector? Is that a Ford Authorized part supplier? I am limited as to where my parts come from and injectors always come from our local Ford Authorized Part Re-manufacturer.

I just unscrewed the end off off my tester and put on my tee. I never use it as a regular pressure tester anymore so I don't care. If you want to have two I have only one thing to say. EBAY! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

Thats a pretty big difference in pay provided the hours are similar. The way I see the situation is a good diesel technician is worth a lot to a dealership these days or anywhere for that matter. The good thing about working for a dealership is that you can get a lot of good technical training depending on the dealer. You also get to see the newest technology first which some see as a disadvantage - I look at it as a challenge. As for the money, a well trained successful diesel tech can demand a good wage. Up by me 30+ an hour with benefits for the best! At this point I think that I could walk into any dealer and snag a job because we are a dieing breed in high demand right now. Okay, I'm rambling on. If I were 25 and newly married I would make time for sleep. Then I would think about my future and try to build a career and do what is going to be most beneficial in the long run. RIGHT NOW which job best meets that? And by the way, congratulations on your nuptials! Wait till you have kids... the wiser career choice now will help you later.

Good topic. Doing head gaskets with the cab off? Unbolt the Y-Pipe from the heads and leave it connected to the turbo and the EGR cooler. Remove The FICM harness and only disconnect any other wiring only as needed. Disconnect the fuel lines at the filter assembly and remove the fuel line retention bolts at the left cylinder head and the intake manifold. Remove all of the intake manifold bolts including the front EGR cooler bolts - you will need to do a couple with a wrench. Suspend the intake from the wheel wells 1" above the heads using good bungee cords. You will now have access to the top head bolts and have ample room to remove the heads. No time spent removing all the crap up on top of the engine!

Quote: Since ford doesn't allow their techs to recondition them, do they replace every one that has codes for excessive exhaust back pressure and or low boost? Every single one! Don't forget a sicking turbo can cause an over boost condition as well. Quote: I have found that marking the exhaust housing for the actuator linkage makes reassembly of the unison ring much easier as you won't have to keep lifting the ring and repositioning it. Good tip! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Okay, article done unless I got anything wrong. Please have a look-see especially anyone that has performed the Turbo Reconditioning... Quick comments and criticism welcome. If you have something to add to it please let me know! You lucky fellers get to see it first. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php

Quote: Effective with 2007 and subsequent Model Year Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury passenger cars and light trucks sold in the United States, the powertrain warranty coverage period is extended from 3 years / 36,000 miles (Ford/Mercury) and 4 years / 50,000 miles (Lincoln) to 5 years / 60,000 miles (Ford/Mercury) and 6 years / 70,000 miles (Lincoln). Effective with 2007 and subsequent Model Year vehicles, safety restraint coverage is extended from 5 years / 50,000 miles to 5 years / 60,000 miles across all vehicle lines. Full Roadside Assistance benefits (e.g., towing services, lock-out service and fuel-fill assistance) are extended through duration of the 5 years / 60,000 miles (Ford & Mercury) and 6 years / 70,000 (Lincoln only) powertrain warranty coverage period. These warranty coverage changes are in response to Dealers request and will align Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles' powertrain coverages with the present offerings of some of the Company's major Asian competitors.

Pull the transmission and remove the rear engine cover. Don't forget to cut the joint seals where the block, bed plate and the cover meet before pulling the cover away!

The truck ran really well actually but it was losing and expelling coolant. The end result was right side gasket leaked, the EGR cooler leaked and the right head was bad. The flatness measured 0.004" within a 4" line between cylinders 3 & 6 lengthwise. This is the second truck we found with BOTH a head/gasket concern AND a bad EGR cooler! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif