Keith Browning

Yes Bruce, the 2017 6.7L trucks use an in-tank fuel delivery module (pump) and a tank mounted 10 micron filter/water separator. And if you didn't see the post, the aft-axle fuel tanks are now plastic from the factory. The body is indeed aluminum.

Yeah that thing is sweet. IN general that hoist is a bit of a pain to move around the shop because of it;s size but it makes pulling heavy diesel engines pretty easy. The large wheels allow it to roll easily even over garbage or my in-ground lift floor covers/cracks. The hoist also folds for storage.

Thanx for the input. I managed to get the engine removed yesterday using borrowed technique from our experience with Ford. If you follow the Chrysler WSM, they have you removing the EGR cooler, valve cover, three rocker arms, two injectors, head bolts and installing some lifting bracket... blah blah blah. A lot of tedious work to pull an engine in my opinion and another example of "not thinking outside of the box." Especially for someone who has never done any of it on this model. So what did I do? A partial cab lift was an easy route to take. About 4" of blocks under the front mounts and there was enough room to pull the engine completely intact. Well, I took off the #6 injector line, and upper valve cover/crankcase filter, crankcase pressure sensor to prevent damaging them with my lifting chain. I prefer it that way so that I can really get a good look at what I am disassembling and eventually reassembling.

Anyone here pull a 6.7L ISB from a late model Dodge Ram 5500? The WSM says to lift it then rotate the nose of the engine up and out. Like shoehorning the damn thing - are they kidding? I am seriously thinking that the rest of the cooling stack and grille needs to come out to pull this off. Uncharted territory for me.

That tool looks like a nice idea but how well does it work? My shop's press is right by my bays and I see the press struggle with some of these bearings. If you guys think these pullers work really well it might be a good idea to recommend to my SM. Time saver = efficiency = profit.

I have never removed the oil pan to do one of these. As mentioned, leave the dipstick installed to hold onto the inner piece. Since I usually had to replace the dipstick as well I found that cutting the dipstick about 6-8" from the oil pan makes it easier to handle and maneuver to replace the o-ring. and then reassemble. DO REMEMBER TO MARK THE POSITION OF THAT INNER PART AS IT CAN GO IN AT TWO DIFFERENT INDEXED POSITIONS. It has to do with the angle of the dipstick which is different for F-Series or E-Series. When you get into the job you will see exactly what I mean.

I was CNG certified through Ford back in the late 1990's... on Crown Vics with a factory system. Even got the tool kit and all. Our fleet department never got the contract they were bidding on so I never saw a single one.

Coolant fitting on the turbo. You can see it with a borescope or a mirror at the right angle with a bright flashlight.

Well lookie there! You've to run a symptom code for it to show up though. I looked there this morning but I only an the VIN... it was not there. I knew I saw it somewhere - THANX!

I thought there was/is a concern reporting form somewhere on FMC Dealer or PTS. I went looking and can't seem to find it... something like Global Concern Reporting or GCR? Anyone help me out here? I would rather fill that our than deal with the Hot-Line. Okay I found it on the FMC Dealer landing page, on the left, scroll down and expand the "service" listing and its Global Concern Reporting System.

I thought this was concerning when I discovered it. A customer brought in a 2014 F750 that lost all of the lights on the parking lamp circuit as well as the headlamps. I approached the diagnosis logically as I usually do checking the fuse first then I began at the main light switch. Found it connected and no concerns there but I had no supply voltage to the switch at all and then found no voltage at the relays either. Since it was in the vicinity of the relay box I disconnected connector C192 and found pin D8 melted and burned on the dash harness connector. The body side was perfect. I expected to find a pin fit or bad crimp issue and localized damage. When I pulled the dash back and unwrapped the harness between C192 and the relay box I discovered that circuit 196 (DB-OG) burned up between the connector and splice S212. When I looked at the wiring, it appears as though circuit 196 coming from the BJB is an 18 or even 16 gauge wire all the way up to connector C192. From the dash side of connector C192 the circuit was 20 gauge for about 8 inches then it is spliced off at splice S212 where I found 2- 20 gauge wires, a 16 gauge wire and 18 gauge wire. Make sense? Nooooo. So the issue here is why is there 20 gauge wire there? I had to go all the way to splice S212 to find decent wire to repair with but splicing there would only turn that wire into a fusible link again. All I can say is WTF! The repair was made by removing the 5 wire splice and breaking it down to two splices and then into one, crimped and soldered and since there was no other damage than the pin cavity on the connector hard shell I simply spliced/overlaid the circuit over the connector. Try getting a harness for one of these trucks. You call Ford to help figure out the International tag number to verify your Ford listing, then they tell you it will take 4-6 weeks for them to order one, MAKE IT and then ship it. The customer and I were both happy that the harness was not too badly damaged and a repair was doable.

My company has had the contract to supply New Jersey Natural Gas with vehicles for many years. Now, they want to switch from GMC to Ford for their CNG powered light duty trucks. So this week we had the fellas from Power Fuel CNG Systems http://www.powerfuelcng.com/ I was wondering if anyone here has had any experiences with this company. We went through an installation on a 2016 F150 5.0L as a training exercise...

Still Down.

FWIW - it is NOT your responsibility if the vehicle has been modified.

A lot of crazy stuff. Most notable is F750 tree truck with boom had it's cooling stack packed with small wood chips and sawdust. I swept up about a cubic foot of powdered wood from my shop floor when it was all over. It has been really slow here in the North East - all the other dealers have slowed down to varying degrees but it's bad right now. I have been staying busy taking on a few Dodge Rams and ironically I see the same shit going wrong with those as I do with the Fords... even trucks being misdiagnosed and incorrectly repaired.

Sorry bout that - it was 26 miles, all highway. I fixed my post. I guess I'll never know what was wrong with the trans originally. I am hoping they will total the truck and yank it out of there. What a mess. I just finished another burn job where a salt spreader controller caught fire - new dash, HVAC, harness, carpet...

Jesus. NJ DOT at its finest! (sorry big brother) A 2003 F550 was towed in from Lodi NJ to Morristown, about 26 miles (all highway) with the driveshaft connected. The truck was being towed in for transmission issues but things went wrong on the way to our dealership... very wrong. I can't even determine where the fire started but everything above the transmission burned and severely heated the floor and carpet. Burnt up the trans harness, shift cable, PTO harness, PTO lube hose, the heat shield over the trans and up the firewall. I opened the hood and the fire had spread - melted the engine and injector harness, FICM, degas bottle, harness support on the cowl, coolant hoses, fan shroud and stator and who knows what else. They wanted an estimate for the trans and the carpet. I closed the hood and told my advisor to call them and contact their insurance company. The douchebag driving the DOT tow truck thought it was funny! Said he was told not to remove the driveshaft? He finally did after the third time he had to pull over on the highway to extinguish the flames.

Ethanol

Obviously a malfunction but what has my interest is that the PCM didn't shut the engine down with the elevated exhaust temperatures.

Hopefully that is a GM thing. I have not seen them rot on a Ford or a Dodge for that matter.

Well it looks like Hell has has indeed frozen over. I walked out into our lot today to pull a 2017 F450 cab and chassis in to PDI and my jaw hit the pavement! Lookie - a plastic aft-axle fuel tank. Only about 10 years late...

Sometimes I am left feeling the same way. You swear you performed the road test procedure correctly but it just does not work... then, it does.

From the looks of it on the wiring diagram, the gooseneck harness plugs into the same connectors C431 and C432. So you can only use one or the other?

I would try Googling the tool number and the words repair parts. I have repaired several tools this year by doing so and had little trouble sourcing the parts. Worth a shot!

"Ever since" you serviced my car it smells like shit!