Keith Browning

Did I miss something or did we lose the power balance and relative compression tests for the 7.3L? I REALLY needed both tests and now I have to spend extra time doing a compression test. These tests did exist right? I'm not dreaming am I? GOD DAMMIT!!!!!!! When did this happen?

6.0L Maximum Boost Specification, What's the OFFICIAL and correct specification for this engine? I am reading, hearing and being told different things and thought we need to get to the bottom of this. The Performance sheet only lists a minimum spec. I was told from the Hotline while discussing the coolant overflow TSB that anything over 24 PSI is considered over boost. I am almost positive I read a service message that 22 to 25 PSI is the maximum acceptable boost pressure. I see rumors and reports of 28 to over 30 - stock! I am soooo confused... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif

So I am done with this job and experiment and I wanted to share my thoughts on it. I realize I am not the first to do this and I know guys have been doing this for quite a while now. I don't see what the engineers at the training centers have against this approach? But anyways.. I found this to be quicker and less invasive than removing the engine. Although removing the cab LOOKS extreme, there was less disassembly and fewer parts removed overall. Performing head gasket replacement in chassis would have been difficult at best and torquing the head bolts in chassis would have been nearly impossible. There was no damage to the customers precious paint AND I got the cab and pick-up bed aligned better than the factory did. Working on the engine still mounted on the frame I had access to EVERYTHING, properly torquing the head bolts was a breeze. Laying a large piece of cardboard on the frame rails and transmission provided an excellent place to lay out the engine parts in an organized fashion as I removed them. It looks really cool! (yes, it was like the Circus was in town) My back suffered no pain or strain. A big plus!

I don't hate the engine. In fact I have turned around and have built some respect for it. But I understand your feelings. It's very frustrating to have to bust your hump to repair failures that are relatively simple in nature that unfortunately have complicated effects. I'm still young and can't afford to let an engine get the best of me if I am going to continue supporting my family as a technician. I remember Jim Warman commenting in a thread somewhere (can't remember where as we both frequent several forums) that he heard in a training class that the injector ring failures was a known problem and was considered a low volume thing. I am beginning to think that this is not the case.

If all of the injector codes have returned I would say the IDM is failing. Just as long as you have indeed verified that the circuits are all good. The P1294 code is what makes me believe it's the IDM instead of injectors and I have seen this quite a few times in the last few years. It's the clearing-up after 5-7 seconds that puzzles me though. Usually a bad IDM is bad and it stays bad! I will add that I was fooled by the PCED once with injector codes... I performed all of the tests as per the book ans was led to replace the IDM... long story short, it was the IDM. Go figure! This is one time a test module or a "known good IDM" would come in handy.

That's good to know and it makes sense since a large number of the LCF tools are carried over from the F-Series/6.0L kits.

Bruce? Would it be possible to get the International part number for that drain plug? I figure if anyone here has a favorite International dealer it might be you! (I don't know if our International techs here visit very frequently.)

Plastic scrapers S U C K ! What were they thinking? You cannot remove caked on carbon and gasket material and varnish from steel with a freaking plastic scraper!!! I am now using spray-on combustion cleaner and Scotch Brite pads. Believe it or not the surface looks smoother than it was from the factory and no scratches.

If your intention is to fix an oil leak then the harness is all you need to replace.

Thanx. I did the vacuum to the system trick but it did not seem to change anything. I drove the truck twice and then had my manager drive it who seemed to indicate that it wasn't as bad as I was describing it... suggested that it might be improving on it's own working out the air by letting it sit and then driving it. Maybe. I guess the customer will let us know. If it were my truck I would not be satisfied. I can understand a little fluid noise when steering or braking hard but the system just should not moan.

I know what you are thinking. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif No, that's not it. 2006 CF/LCF moaning from PS pump and a new pump doesn't fix it! Bad pumps? Funky valve in the booster? Also hearing a loud hiss/gurgling when turning the wheel intermittently after warm up. I am afraid to throw another pump in this truck and not fix it. Is anyone else seeing this? We have a few of these trucks in the lot that make this same noise and I would hate to think its normal!

The tool number is 303-1114 by OTC. It's made of metal and it looks like a flat black candy cane with feet about 3-4 inches long.

Well I don't know what the ones shown in the service manual are or where we are supposed to get them. I wrote a note to the people at the RTTP web site and I got a reply telling me that the really had nothing like it. Go figure! But he did at least say that he was forwarding the note to Dearborn so maybe something will come of it eventually. I did however find some plastic putty knives and something called a Refinishing Tool that is supposed to be used with paint and varnish removers. The knives have a pretty good edge on them and I might even be able to get them really sharp with some fine emery paper or crocus cloth. Since I paid about two bucks for all four I have nothing to lose! Oh, I found them at Lowe's home improvement center and I am sure that The Home Depot has the same items.

Not on a 6.8 but I have seen 5.4's do it. With mine it was always an air/fuel management concern: low fuel pressure or a bad MAF sensor. A quick look at your fuel trims would indicate this as a cause. I haven't had to work on any of the new gasoline engines with the electronic throttle control. Do they still use an IAC valve or is the electric throttle used to compensate and control idle now? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif I vaguely remember somebody running through several throttle plate modules for stalling on a different engine.

17-ML-226-ML- Moved to Parts Forum

I had a rare moment at work. I had an idea! Whilst standing under an LCF I was working on, I noticed the HFCM drain plug sticking through the left frame rail which I knew was there and really had never given it much thought... after all it is just a stupid plug right? Then I heard a "ding" and a bright shiny light bulb appeared over my head. I got my 6mm socket and removed the plug and had a look at it. (CLICK HERE TO SEE) I realized that it was the same plug from the F-Series with a nice knurled knob on it and a keeper on the other end which guided the fuel as it drained. I put it in the Super Duty I have the cab off of and it fits perfect. It doesn't come close to the drive shaft and you can still get a tool in there if you need to. As I mentioned, it guides the duel as it drains and I think it should keep the fuel from getting on the drive shaft and spilling all over or at the very least, easier to collect in a drain bucket or bottle. Hand tight is cool and you don't need tools but if it gets stuck you can use the 6mm. What if it seizes? NOW you have something to put your channel lock pliers on to get it out. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

You know, the plastic gasket scrapers we are supposed to use on Ford engines as per the service manual? I can't find them on the RTTP web site or from any of the tool vendors in my area. Anybody know where to get them?

My guess is that Ford has not always had the nice provisions that they now offer such as body builder access and upfitter switches which by the way I think is the best idea they have come up with in a long time. I would say that there are a lot of installers that have been doing things a certain way for a long time and aren't about to change. I also think it's just easier for people to remove the access panel and shove a fuse tap in there and be done.

WOW! That was easy to do and it took me about half of the time it usually takes to remove the engine. What's even better is that I don't have to mess around with the engine stand either. Now, If only my back-ordered head gaskets would arrive I'll be set. Thanx for the encouragement to do it this way! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif I wish I did all those blown engines this way too. Hind sight is 20/20 ain't it?

Yes, it would be Dejana Truck! Sorry, for the delay, I didn't see your reply. They are not as bad as they once were and I would actually say they are a good body company. I think the electrical part of any installation is subject to less than "ideal" methods and execution. Now if I could only get my parts guys to stock those 2 1/2" pop-in lights I would be set!!!

I am starting to see this more now. 4" right out of the turbo all the way back w/stock catalyst and a junk intake air filter. Same code, same scenario...Read Broadcast Message 4900:

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

First, what have you done to address the P1316 code; IDM codes detected? Have you run the Injector Electrical self test(buzz test) and corrected any harness or injector concerns? In looking at the codes P1219 & P1670, neither explicitly mean a circuit failure but rather a communication error or missing or corrupt data. The PCM and IDM share two digital control signals; 1- fuel delivery and 2- a camshaft position signal! Since you already replace both modules an you are absolutely positive that no harness issues exist take a look at your CMP signal. I think you will find that your camshaft position sensor is beginning to fail. I have seen this before a couple of times and it's rare. The fact that temperature affects the symptom supports my suspicions. Please keep us advised on your progress! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif

We are running the latest too with no issues that I know of. I asked a couple of the other guys and no reports of misbehaving. Did you run the update function after you installed the disk? I always do and there must be updates because it takes forever to download and the unit usually resets afterwords.

Si, acordado! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif