Keith Browning

Yessssssssss! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif Thank you Brad, I have been looking for this info for a couple of years now. I am guessing you have one of those hydrometers? And the fuel sample in question ended up having a cetane "measurement" of 43. Wow, I remember not seeing anything coming from the stations any higher than 41. I have a couple 650's to PDI this week, let's see if it's true about the 50 cetane from the factory the Hot Line told me about. (assuming some accuracy on the tools part)

Did I tell ya I hate these abominations? I know somebody has to have had an experience with one. I thought that I might start a post and keep a running tab on design flaws and poor workmanship. To be fair, any good points may be listed here too. The front ends can begin shaking violently on the highway. Sections of front cross members are cut away to make room for the new track bar. They weld in some extra metal but has this been crash test verified? They use "mostly" Ford parts in the front end but Ford does not warranty them - you have to file a claim through Quigley. Damage a front wheel sensor harness during production? Use a butt connector and electrical tape to fix it. Yep! That'll do! The 6.0L HFCM is in the way of the new front drive shaft. Let's modify the bracket and reposition the housing so that the filter cap won't come off without removing the bracket and then the HFCM from the bracket. Friggin brilliant! Ooops! That pesky oil filter is in the way of our front drive shaft too. We can machine a block of metal and rotate it 90 degrees. Nice job. In true ford fashion, the seals leak oil. To make room for the transfer case the mid-ship fuel tank has to be shortened. Nice job, good weld. Ahhh! Less fuel capacity and apparently nobody thought to clean out the metal chips and slag from the cutting and welding process. These are just a few things I thought you might want to watch out for. Aside from that they look cool.

I just tried the search function for the first time and it worked well /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif wink! wink! Heres a post that might help ya! Oil Cooler #3 I haven't had any bad oil coolers on the 6.0L but some of the guys in that thread may have some advice for you.

Yeah, but you know what, I have seen this on 03's too and they do just as you said. A truck might roll in and the customer will say "Don't turn it off because it won't restart for at least 8-10 hours!" That equates to a full day's work and no lunch for the poor guy. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif Makes it a real pain to move the truck around the lot until it's repaired. At least I now know what to look for. Putting air into the system is the best way to find a high pressure leak. If it's an injector o-ring you will be able to identify which bank the leak is on. If the ICP is on the valve cover or it's an Econoline, you can determine which bank the leak is on BEFORE you remove the valve covers. I used a discarded fuel port plug and made an adapter that fits the ICP hole and the port on the back of the new style HPOP for the Econoline. That way you don't have to remove any covers and install adapters to apply shop air. At least not for an initial test. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

That is a good question. Do you guys up in Canada have the same or similar programs available to the techs? I know you have a different web site if I am not mistaken or is it a different portal into FMC Dealer? You certainly can't tell me that the vehicles are different and don't have similar problems!

I am getting confused now. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif What is it you did not get paid for? I would think (not being an expert on this) that swapping over the oil pump and water pump is all part of the front cover operation and is included in the time. If you are trying to claim those operations WITH the front cover that would definitely be an overlap. Maybe if I go and look at the SLT's myself it'll make sense. I still don't see what the HPOP has to do with the front cover on an engine with no rear crossover on the intake from a warranty stand point. once you get the turbo and the EGR cooler out of your way, you should be able to access it, no? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Maybe this is one of those strange instances where the front and rear cover have the same basic part number and that is what triggered the overlap? The HPOP has to come off to do a rear cover and that would be an overlap. Just an idea... I get those from time to time. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I'll take that as good advice based on experience! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

Okay, I got my tester working but now I cant find my "specific gravity-to-cetane number" conversion chart that originally came with it. Remind you that this was a Rotunda service tool that was made by the Sun corporation. Would anybody have this sheet or access to any archives that might have this information?

Good thing you mentioned that! I have yet to reassemble a 6.0L that was going back into a truck so I have never needed to use the bolt tightening procedure... until now. Having just reviewed the service manual I guess I need to order some bolts tomorrow! This is a van that shredded the FEAD belt and it somehow damaged the front crankshaft seal as it wound around the crank behind the pulley. By the way, what were you taking the front cover off for?

I think I have the answer, my wife used to be our Warranty Administrator so I am used to helping to figure these things out. If the truck is a 2003 or early 2004 with an intake manifold that has the rear crossover then think about what has to be removed from the engine to access either part. It's virtually the same repair up until the intake comes off of the engine. This is doing it "by the book" and assuming you are not using any shortcuts or tricks. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif In that case it's definitely an overlap. Okay, it's a really big overlap! If the manifold has no rear crossover then the two repairs really have little in common and would not be an overlap at all in my opinion.

Ernie, Welcome to the site, glad you made it! Quote: I didn't see my $50.00 yet. I didn't see mine until a short time ago because it was sitting on the Dealer Principal's desk. It eventually trickled down. I have the notice in my tool box at work so I can't read it right now but I remember something about retrieving a code or coupon on FMC Dealer. I'm not sure. If you are a Service manager (now?) wouldn't your status on STARS have changed possibly making you ineligible? Just a thought!

The topic of body and cab removal for powertrain repairs came up during a BS session at training. There is a photograph in the hallway showing a cab-off 6.0L engine repair and it was titled in big lettering "Don't Do It!" Many of the guys in the class were, like me, hesitant to try the procedure for various reasons. When brought up to the instructor for questioning the response was that there have been reports of body alignment and fit concerns like doors not closing properly. The problem is that in most cases, the cab or the full body an Excursion is not supported evenly causing the body to twist or bend. NVH problem can also be caused by this. If anyone has done this have you encountered any problems as a result of lifting the body off frame?

Hey look! We got a live one. Welcome to our Forums. Just out of curiosity, what was clogging the stand pipes?

We have an new 2006 Super Duty with a V-10 that seems to have too strong of an idle. This truck jumps when you let off the brake. The idle stays around 850. This is also a "fly by wire" throttle system. Anyone see this yet? On Edit: Apparently the 2006 models are not set to trigger the following SSM on OASIS yet! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif OASIS SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGE NUMBER: 18156 MESSAGE TITLE: 2005 ALL VEHICLES WITH GASOLINE POWERED ENGINES - HIGH IDLE AT LOW MILEAGE APPLICABLE VEHICLES : 2005 CAR : 00015 CROWN VICTORIA 00044 GRAND MARQUIS 00071 MUSTANG 00082 SABLE 00092 THUNDERBIRD 00094 TOWN CAR 00117 TAURUS 00122 FOCUS 00124 LINCOLN LS 00164 FORD GT 00165 FIVE HUNDRED 00166 FREESTYLE 00167 MONTEGO 2005 TRUCK : 00016 E-SERIES 00026 EXPEDITION 00028 F-SERIES 00029 F-SERIES LD 00067 MEDIUM TRUCK 00070 MOUNTAINEER 00081 RANGER 00106 NAVIGATOR 00110 EXPLORER 00126 EXCURSION 00130 ESCAPE 00134 EXPLORER 4DR 00152 AVIATOR 00156 MONTEREY 00158 FREESTAR 00163 MARINER 00166 FREESTYLE OASIS MESSAGE : ALL 2005 VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH GASOLINE POWERED ENGINES WITH LESS THAN 5 CONTINUOUS MILES (8 KM) OF DRIVING BETWEEN STARTS, OR LESS THAN 50 STARTS, MAY EXHIBIT HIGHER THAN NORMAL ENGINE IDLE SPEEDS. THIS IS A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC, SO DO NOT ATTEMPT REPAIR. AFTER 5 CONSECUTIVE MILES (8 KM) OF DRIVING OR 50 STARTS THE IDLE SHOULD RETURN TO NORMAL. REFER TO THE PC/ED FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. APPLICABLE SYMPTOM CODES : 617400 DRIVEABILITY IDLE - SLOW RETURN TO IDLE 619400 DRIVEABILITY IDLE - FAST IDLE

I keep forgetting to use the Wizards! They are not much of a help for me but hey, I want in on the prizes too!!! I suppose they help the guys that need to establish a consistent diagnostic routine.

I looked in the PCED (which I certainly hope you did) and I would focus on the U0105. The pinpoint tests, which get lengthy, look at the FICM relay power and grounds and then the network circuits. The FICM has TWO power supplies. It receives a 12V power supply from the ignition switch and the second comes from the FICM relay WHICH THE FICM ITSELF CONTROLS BY PROVIDING GROUND TO TO THE RELAY. This power source is for the coil side of the module (injectors). Perform pinpoint tests "AS" and see what you come up with. "The hotter it gets the worse it gets" makes me think the FICM is going bad.

You need to cut the sealant at the joints where the upper cylinder block and the lower bed plate meet and intersect the covers. A paint scraper sharpened to be razor sharp works really well. The idea is not to stretch the spaghetti gasket between the upper and lower block. You also want to leave the silicone sealant in the block and intact. Remember to use the proper silicone!!!

This is under "Updates and Special Functions" on the WDS which requires a special code, the so called "code of the day". If you enter that and click on config summary then enable you will be able to see the entire vid block after you enter you tear tag. Look at the data on block 124. It should be something like FF, FE, FD, FC. All of the those codes correspond to one of the diag tools (NGS, WDS...etc). As I understand it, if there is something different then something "funny" very likely has taken place. I was told be extremely careful not to change any data or the PCM will be scrap!

You know, The most common thing I see on 7.3 trucks is the air filter housing lid is not seated because the outboard tangs are not seated into the slots. Sure the clamps hold the cover on but there is a big gap on the other end! Also, K&N filters on the same 7.3 trucks, some for what ever reason don't seem to be thick enough to seal the cover to the base of the housing. Air and dirt just go around the element. Just an observation. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif

I am discovering that the green coated o-ring at the breather connection for the intake swells and cannot be reused. I recommend that you ask your parts department to stock replacement o-rings (3C3Z-6766-BA) for the breather to intake tube connector. The rubber o-ring swells and sticks causing it to no longer fit or seal. This is something you have to disconnect to perform the 05S34 recall just in case you have not done any yet.

I am discovering that the green coated o-ring at the breather connection for the intake swells and cannot be reused. I recommend that you ask your parts department to stock replacement o-rings (3C3Z-6766-BA) for the breather to intake tube connector. The rubber o-ring swells and sticks causing it to no longer fit or seal. This is something you have to disconnect to perform the 05S34 recall just in case you have not done any yet.

Heads up fellas! I have it from an excellent source that the next recall is coming soon, July or as parts are available. This is going to be an emissions recall requiring parts... any guesses? EBP sensors! Let us hope that I am right because that would be an easy one. Now there was a lot of talk about re-flashes coming but none of these recalls included one as of yet. I wonder if a re-flash will go with the EBP? Side note - do you think that showing these recalls with pictures and describing the procedures like I did with the transmission recalls be good for the non-member site visitors? I did get some good feedback from readers on them! Does anyone have any words of advice for owners or technicians performing the recalls that I could add to the article? For instance: I recommend that you ask your parts department to stock replacement o-rings (3C3Z-6766-BA) for the breather to intake tube connector. The rubber o-ring swells and sticks causing it to no longer fit or seal. This is something you have to disconnect to perform the 05S34 recall.

Heads up fellas! I have it from an excellent source that the next recall is coming soon, July or as parts are available. This is going to be an emissions recall requiring parts... any guesses? EBP sensors! Let us hope that I am right because that would be an easy one. Now there was a lot of talk about re-flashes coming but none of these recalls included one as of yet. I wonder if a re-flash will go with the EBP? Side note - do you think that showing these recalls with pictures and describing the procedures like I did with the transmission recalls be good for the non-member site visitors? I did get some good feedback from readers on them! Does anyone have any words of advice for owners or technicians performing the recalls that I could add to the article? For instance: I recommend that you ask your parts department to stock replacement o-rings (3C3Z-6766-BA) for the breather to intake tube connector. The rubber o-ring swells and sticks causing it to no longer fit or seal. This is something you have to disconnect to perform the 05S34 recall.

The file name will most definitely be different if the performance program is installed. I'm talking about the "Sneaky Pete" that removes the performance program and reinstalls the original Ford data that was removed... and then brings the truck in to fix that hole in the block.