Keith Browning

Maybe. Our shop has a couple of not so young anymore technicians that are blissfully cruising along doing light repairs, recalls and oil changes. I don't think they make much money. Now imagine immersing those two guys in our world given the starting post above. Look at the increased complexity of these engines and subsystems that some of us have been there as they came out. The cumulative nature in which we gained knowledge and experience. Hand one of these guys a repair order for a 2016 Super Duty with a check engine light and watch what happens. Your statement introduces another aspect to my question. Something I have heard over and over again in the last 30 years stated in different ways. "I shouldn't have gotten certified in..." or "The more you know the less you make" or "When I move to another dealer I am gonna play stupid" or "I should let my certification lapse so they cant give me that work" I am sure there are dozens more like those. Generally not representative of my thinking.

Which really means that the bus may have been doing that before it showed up in your bay and nobody bothered to mention it. Shit like that happens to me a lot.

Had a couple conversations lately while discussing 6.7L diagnosis with a coworker. It seems that back in the day of the 6.0L we saw so many trucks with problems you couldn't help but learn and understand the engine, subsystems and diagnosing problems and this even transferred to the 6.4L with some new stuff thrown in. But since the 6.7L has entered the picture we see fewer trucks with problems (or so it seems - your experiences may vary) it has been a struggle for many of us to get to know and understand the 6.7L. Add in the increased complexity of the aftertreatment system and you can add a little frustration to the mix. Even getting assistance from the Hot-Line is hit or miss depending on who you talk to and with that, a Hot-Line contact via the form almost always yields a canned cut and paste response. I typically become more frustrated when contacting them because I feel as though the person on the other end really did not read and understand my question - you would think I have never read the "Description and Operation" section of the manual. So, I was wondering what you all think of this? Are things different now? Better or worse and why?

It is true. I was to put them in my 97 Taurus but never did. Still have the parts which are probably not the same as what goes in a pickup.

Sayyy..... you can weld! Why not try welding that clutch hub back together and reinstall it.

Coast clutch hubs fail frequently and I have seen a handful myself. I always find no other damage to the trans because the failure is sudden and the truck simply will not move after it fails and the truck comes to a stop. If I am not mistaken the failure is an insufficient weld that holds the center section to the hub. I don't even take the transmission off of the trans jack to fix them - before removing take the pan down, remove the filter and clean out what little debris there might be. Put the pan back up with 4 bolts and remove the assembly, take the converter and pump out and there it is. No DTC's and no reports of slipping pretty much assures no other faults. And... without the DTC's you will at least be paid better than what the TSB affords us.

In case anyone needs to do this the head can be accessed and removed without removing the compressor or the fuel lines.

The PCED tells you to replace the FICM for this code. There are no diagnostic pinpoint tests for it.

Well I got to the bottom of it - looks like the discharge valve in the compressor head is stuck. Got it out and took it apart and found rust packed in the bore. Apparently these two trucks were built without air dryers and no automatic water ejectors on the tanks. Should have one or the other and with the manual drain valves there is no guarantee the tanks are being purged with regularity at all. So for now I ordered an overhaul kit for this Wabco single stage compressor which comes with a new head, gaskets and head bolts. Then we will figure out what to do about the moisture control situation. This is a New Jersey Natural Gas vehicle. I know their trucks usually have dryers. The underside of this truck is packed with hoses and large pumps mounted to the inside of the frame and a PTO. I think it would have been much easier for the upfitter company to move the component than to attempt adding one after the fact. This is why I am going to provide an estimate to add moisture ejectors on the tanks.

Thanks Joe - looks like this confirms the 118 I read. The 40 looks like its for the bolts that mount the dampener to the pulley. I did not look at the part closely but it comes assembled - dampener and pulley. I guess they are bolted together. The four bolts are pretty large and 118 seems more appropriate.

I have a 2000 F750 with a 3126 Caterpillar engine that needs a new crankshaft dampener. I have the part and 4 new bolts but I NEED THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION for the bolts. Anybody? Google is not much help on this one - I did find 118 lb/ft mentioned in a forum but I would love to be sure.

I have only looked at the first truck at this point and there are no leaks. If there are minor leaks that cannot be heard then I would think that those leaks would not cause the condition I am seeing. In the past I have seen air leaks cause continuous cycling of the compressor which is opposite from what I have here. On the ISB the compressor is mounted off the right rear with the Power Steering pump bolted onto the front of it. The steering works fne so I can eliminate a loose drive gear or other drive failure. Um, with the inlet hose off I can feel air going in AND out of the port which is why I believe the discharge valve is hanging up.

No. The air compressor intake is piped to the cold side CAC tube on a 2015 ISB engine. The inlet and discharge lines are perfectly clean. This is why I am skeptical of cleaning at this point but if it is a matter of sticking discharge valves doing so might free them up.

I have not one but two New Jersey Natural Gas F750 trucks with Cummins engines that wont build air pressure. One will reach 60 PSI if I stand on the throttle and wait 3 minutes. The other wont build pressure at all. Anyone that has run across this please chime in. I am following the diagnostics in Cummins' EDS and I am supposed to connect a $725 compressor cleaner to the inlet port and "clean/flush" the cylinder head of the compressor. It essentially injects ATF to clean and free up the discharge valve from what I can determine. I doubt my company will invest $725 on such a tool to be used once. So the truck will now sit for a week until my manager returns from his vacation. I was thinking of squirting a little ATF into the compressor manually... And yes, there are no intake or delivery tube restrictions. One of the inspections is to measure the carbon buildup in the discharge tube. This one is perfectly clean so I am wondering if cleaning the head is going to have any effect. You know, this shit would almost be fun if it wasn't so unproductive.

I recently had a truck in that we installed a "reconditioned " tank that was going bad.

Buhwahhhahhahaha!!!!

That is why you don't buy shit from Ford unless you cant get it anywhere else... legitimately. I bought two adapters for $25 and free shipping. A few minutes searching and you will find them.

LOL @ mike!

Might have something there!

get an electric car and you wont have to worry about fuel at all.

I think wee need to give this segment of the market time. The Chevy, The Nissan and possibly a Ford with a diesel in the 150. If priced better they might become popular but we know what the cost of a diesel and the aftertreatment system can do to the bottom line..

What truck IS NOT overpriced?

Looks like a Foryota.

Well to update this - when I got the turbo on the bench I checked it out better. The vanes are stuck solidly. Would not budge. The only movement I had was between the rack and the cam about 2 or 3 mm. Seems like getting these turbos out is getting harder and harder. I spent at least an hour alone trying to get the down pipe out and getting the clamps to come off the pipes at the turbo. The left manifold clamp on the bottom needed a few hours of soak time with some Blaster oil before it would let go. :hammer:

I wonder what the thinking behind that is.