Keith Browning

Emailed a request

I have never had to deal with a turbo fault on a 6.7L until now. The last one turned out to be affected by low oil pressure because the bottom end was coming apart. Anyway, it's a 2011 cab and chassis with a single stage turbo. The truck runs okay but during moderate to heavy acceleration the turbo over boosts then the check engine light comes on and the engine derates. DTC P0234 in memory, fails KOER for insufficient EGR flow which makes sense if the turbo is not working. I go through pinpoint tests KA. The pressure sensors check ok. Commanding the turbo does absolutely nothing - there is no change in EBP or MAP at all. After removing it, the VGT actuator buzzes when ramped up and valve movement is visible along with increased resistance on the tip when the duty cycle is increased. It seems to be functioning properly. The PCED directs you to clean the actuator and reinstall it and re-evaluate. If the concern is still present then replace the actuator. If the concern is STILL present then hang a turbo on the engine. I think I am wasting my time with this actuator. Is there a way to inspect the turbo itself? Has anyone ever messed with this? If I remove the plug on top and try to move the piston and the vanes I get no movement at all but I don't know if that is even possible to do. I would think the oil would drain from both sides of the piston but how much resistance should be expected? I am thinking not and that is the reason why Ford has you spend so much time playing with the actuator. Has anyone seen one of these turbos lock up the vanes?

Even more amazing is the many and varied opinions and theories being offered everywhere. I have been asked for my opinion and I have nothing to say. But, if the valves are supposedly sticking, why do they only stick during regen and why does it only occur on light throttle tip in between 64-113 Km/h (40-70 MPH) which is a pretty specific and narrow condition. Don't you think?

I wonder what is so special about the 2017 trucks anyway that it needs a webinar? Maybe they put a Cummins under the hood.

Well that's fucked up. Why do they place such limitations on things like this? All dates and times are filled up. Don't the realize there MIGHT be more than just 300 people who want and need to see it? Anyway, I lodged a complaint on the Discussion Boards. Lets see if it gets any attention. I hope they at least record them and broadcast one.

Anybody planning to see this?

I am glad to hear that it worked out for you! But it's not your place of business and was not your Mustang that went up in flames so the fact that your insurance had to be used and you had to pay anything out of pocket escapes me.

I have also seen the circuit board damaged by over aggressive cleaning of the coating where the chip plugs in. Also have seen corrosion failures because the opening in the rear of the PCM is now open with the ship installed... add a water leak to the scenario and... you know.

Oil just sounds like such an icky proposition though. (like rust isn't?) Bruce does the oil pick up a coating of dirt?

I am sorry fellas - That is what I ended up doing. First of all, an M12x1 anything related to fittings is uncommon and adding that it is a bubble flare even more so. There are the adapters, which change it to a 3/8 flare fitting and a few other things. I chose the 3/8 plug. I suggested filling the plug with brake fluid and maybe that will stay in there statically but I am not holding my breath. We can crack the plug to purge most of the air.

Ok. I did this Brads way and it works. So why the fuck does the WSM tell you to remove the turbos? Note: There is a hole in the cross member that allows access to the pan bolt under the trans line bracket and I always jack these engines up by the flat sides of the rear of the block rear cover therefore I never disconnected any of the steering. I also just bent the trans line bracket away from the engine a little. No need to mess with that either. Just remember to bend it back. Brad, you are a fucking joker aren't you! Just pry on the sliding part of the left engine mount my ass Mr funny man!. That thing was rusted in SOLID!!!

I never thought much of "undercoating" meaning the black stuff that is usually over applied and never completely. Some years ago we used to apply a "rustproofing" substance that applied with a fine spray and mist. That sup can be applied inside of unibody parts, into door panels and into holes in the body by removing rubber plugs. The stuff was almost a waxy feel to it. The cars I bought when I was younger had this stuff applied (by me) and as I recall it was pretty effective. Remember that there is no product that will completely hold off rust. I wish I could remember what that stuff was though. And I feel your pain. It seems like the last 5-10 years the road departments started using that brine on the roads and rust is a bigger problem than it used to be. Maybe its just me.

YAY! Got my wireless back today. I use the E version I bought off of Ebay from someone in Israel. $25 for TWO dongles and free shipping. Forad wants $60 each. Works well so far. They are D-Link DWA-131 E1A If you do go with these, Windows will automatically get and load the drivers. I did download them though and tried to install them which does work but for some reason my PC just did not like to configuration software that cam with the downloads... which you are not supposed to use anyway.

Yeah those metal gaskets act like a reed sometimes.

On Ford Medium Duty trucks with Wabco hydraulic brakes I use a pressure bleeder that is nothing more than a brake cap that applies regulated air to the system at the reservoir. It's in the WSM - maybe 3 PSI is my guess. I don't know that system is in a C70 but the truck looks to be of comparable size. I don't think the ford van be bled without this tool successfully but if the C70 is a conventional system won't normal methods work?

And there we go! Now my only task is to locate a good turbo socket set... I used to borrow a really nice Snap-On set but the guy that had it no longer works with us. I have been in broke-ass budget mode for the last 10 years and have an aversion to spending money... this is a hard habit to overcome now that things have improved for me with the wife returning to work after 14 years. Second problem - I FUCKING HATE my Snap-On dealer. I should just order direct and leave him out of the picture. DONE! Cant fix trucks without tools right? This is the set. https://store.snapon.com/122TSTY-Fractional-MetricTwist-Impact-Socket-Set-Set-Socket-Impact-Twist-SAE-Metric-1-4-drive-22-pc-P644174.aspx

This is the approach I will likely take. The pick up tube is no big deal. This is one of those jobs you need to try to quote all the extra shit that is rusted out that is going to break or require replacement "just because."

I read the WSM on removing the oil pan - partial cab lift. OK, that is all well and good but this JCP&L truck is a special case because of extensive corrosion. I am seriously concerned that I will have extensive problems as a result. So my question for you Gents is has anyone successfully done this leaving the cab right where it is? I am looking at this and thinking removing the upper shroud, CAC tubes, turbo shield and oil supply line and whatever I need to move or disconnect. Will I be able to jack this engine up enough? I feel sick!

Did you try diagnosing this using the symptom chart in the WSM? I would think that might lead you in the right direction.

This is rather amusing.

So what was the official word on this issue concerning the valves? Anyone know? And what was changed with the calibration to stop the rough running? I read on a forum that dosing for regen is now done on both banks. If that is true, will that affect EGR? It is amazing how little information gets to us from Ford.

I found a M12X1.0 brake bleed plug... website is in Polish (.pl). That would work really well!

I have installed several dozen on various model year trucks. Use the Titan - 8020099 https://titanfueltanks.com/shop/ford-after-axle-multi-model-utility-diesel-tank/

Thanx Jeff, just ordered a pair!

I want to PLUG the top port of the brake valve pictured above. Even a bleeder would work but I can only find one of those in 10mmX1.00 which id close but no cigar. There are plenty of adapters out there with thins thread size but then I still have to deal with whatever I adapt to.