Keith Browning

It's a 04 F550 with the EGR cooler and valve removed, harness just a dangling in the wind. The stalling was cased by the FICM harness grounding on the intake bolt. Harness recall was done somewhere in NY according to OASIS. It was never touched by the looks of it. Owner was playing stupid saying he just bought the truck back in December... the EGR bypass and valve blocking plate look like they were installed within the last WEEK and "nobody has looked at the truck." The reason I asked is that for a while I could not verify the stalling and was curious if the EGR delete was causing some PCM related symptoms. I am not used to seeing the VIN block on a 6.0L empty on IDS. Maybe I am wrong...

I think removing the splash shield is MUCH quicker.

Having trouble with a customer lying. Has EGR delete, no valve, P0403 and P0405 hard faults and stalling at lights. I am assuming that the screenshot below indicates a tune?

I have done it once. Remove the right front tire and splash shield and the intake tube to access. The tricky part is fishing it through the injector lines the right way and it's not exactly obvious. Your smart phone camera is your friend.

Yes. I used to see a lot of these plug seals blow out on 4.5L engines in the LCF commonly cause a no start. I have also seen these fail on 6.0L engines too but only once or twice. They can act similarly to a worn standpipe or block off seal especially with regard to the no start when hot condition. And I am confident you will inspect everything whilst you are in there.

What would happen if Conehead uses red silicone to seal a filter housing?

Congrats on the new car. Going over on miles on your lease is not the worst thing you can do provided you don't get stupid and go wayyyy over. I leased my 16 Fusion and considered this conundrum as I average about 8000 miles a year which is almost all commuting to and from work. My lease gives me 10,500 per year so I have 2500 of miles I could drive before incurring extra cost. But, this is not my old Explorer we are talking about. I REALLY enjoy driving this Fusion and well, it is new so I am likely to drive it more than just commuting. Someone pointed out that if you pay up front you do not get your money back if you don't use the miles. Money gone. So, if you are going to go over it is better to just have to pay up for the miles you did drive, and no more. For me it's $0.02/mile over or a mere $20/1000 miles. A couple of extra thousand miles is not going to break my wallet at turn-in time.

Let me refine my statement - I think it only displays a menu showing that there is a text, who it is from on my contacts list and a button to hear the text. The same menu appears on the right side of my instrument cluster. I don't think the 2016 Fusion has sync 3 but then, I have not looked at what version I am at nor do I pay much attention to anything SYNC related as I rarely run into the system working on trucks all day. Now that I have it I am sure this will change for me. And no, I am not bragging. Neener neener neener!

My new 2016 Fusion displays and reads my texts. I am using an iPhone 6. It did not work initially until I turned on the notifications on the phone.

Only for some people. There are some really BIG and expensive homes in NJ.

Nice - you put some thought into this. I will say that I wish the original had toggle switches instead of the momentary push buttons. Man, it has been a while since I used this tool.

I am replacing the pinion seal on a Ford 10.5 rear axle. Setting up the pinion pre-load and the nut gets extremely tight and stops turning to the point where I can't turn the nut any more. In fact, I snapped my Snap-on 3/4" to 1/2" adapter - should have used the 3/4" socket to begin with. Actually ended up on my back and went home early. I took back apart to discover that the nut had stared coming apart where it contacts the flange. It left powdered metal debris behind. I order an new flange and nut, back to setting the pre-load. Again, the nut gets stupid tight long before I even get the movement taken up on the pinion. Off comes the nut and the same thing happened. Powdered debris from the nut and galling on the flange. A coworker had a new nut in his collection of "stuff" that was identical to the dark gray nut I ordered BUT it was a bright shiny steel. I managed to clean up the flange and went for another try. The nut turned smoothly and the spacer collapsed without much fuss. So I wonder if any of you have had problems with these pinion nuts. I have NEVER had a problem like this with a rear. I have no other explanation for this failure other than to conclude it was the metal the nut is made from. And yes, the splines and the threads on the pinion were in perfect condition as were the seal, slinger, bearing and collapsible spacer. [picture to come]

I dunno, it seemed appropriate considering the voltage involved. Maybe the parts he used are UL certified!

I have the real thing and there is no UL sticker on it.

Nice job Matt! :rockon: :rockon:

Sure it's not the pic with the failed snap ring and broken ferrule? I might have one that is just deteriorated as well. Shit. I thought about snapping a photo of the injectors on the one but didn't for whatever reason. I still have the bag of seals though.

Well that was a highly over-rated experience. So I downloaded the instructions from Alliant aptb_01-08r1_en.pdf to read the correct method of replacing these seals. For giggles I tried the hammer and punch method despite the fact that is just seemed totally wrong to go anywhere near a fuel injector with a hammer much less a center punch. Until you figure out the correct way to accomplish this properly it is not fun and I wasted time messing round with it. So, yes. Absolutely leave the snap ring and ferrule in the head of the injector as Bruce stated. This is method 1 in the instruction for those of you reading along... and for the acutely interested the remaining 7 injectors went smoothly. I can only add that once I was sure the o-ring was installed correctly I slid the injectors on the oil rail nipples to ensure that they were fully seated.

Well, I calculated the labor in my usual way using SLTS as a basis. Quoted 8.6 hours WITH diagnosis. I have messed with these seals before and yes, they can be a pain. The hard part is the retaining clip. Also my first time using Alliant Power for parts.

I don't know why you would not charge extra to service the O-rings on injectors. For a 6.0L there is a labor op that pays 0.4 hrs to replace all of the O-rings. In this case, the high pressure seals can be tedious and add to the 0.4 Just sayin. Don't short yourself... unless you are already clubbing the customer on the R&I. The alternative is whack the guy $2200 to replace the injectors that he otherwise does not need. I am giving the customer the choice.

I am offering a customer the option to reseal his injectors with deteriorated high pressure seals. Anyone do this for someone and what labor time did you quote. I am thinking of just quoting diagnosis, R&R injectors plus 1 hr to clean the injectors up and install new seals. This would be for Alliant Power #AP0002 seal kits.

How do you come up with this stuff? Here is mine. Figures!

I found the Ford Fusion Energi owners forum http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/

Girls are 15 and 10. We still own a Freestyle which actually has more cargo room than the Explorer did. For humans the car is quite roomy actually. It might not suit a man your size - I remember you being quite tall. This car is mostly going to be for commuting to and from work.

The most glaring part of this whole thread is simply the confusion that is created by deviating from using what is specified for the truck. Forget about the suitability of any particular coolant mentioned here. At some point in time you WILL be faced with a truck using a type of coolant that you have no clue what it actually is and since mixing different coolants is bad...

Got me a 2016 Fusion Energi in Titanium trim package. I am not a hybrid kinda guy but the incentives were too good to pass up. WOW is this a nice car. Anybody here own a hybrid? Know where on the internet to get more information on driving/owning them? I am hybrid certified but working on them is not the same as owning them!