Keith Browning

Mike, You seem to be good with these details - does a 2005 6.0L have an EGR throttle plate? You guys have me thinking that this truck is one of those weird combination builds that has stuff in it that is not necessarily expected. The original valve which was factory, was sticking when I looked at it before the tech replaced it.. Would the wrong valve behave similarly? I seem to remember somebody posting about this (possibly you) The 2005 EVTM does not show the EGR throttle at all but if you look at the 2004 book it IS there. I inspected the truck for this originally and there is a functioning EGRTP, wires, terminals and all.

Not likely. The truck came in this way originally. I went out to the shop's IDS and looked at the log file from the IDS session from the tech that worked on it. P0069 was retrieved them. but now that you mention it is worth looking at the log again to see if it got updated. I still doubt this is it though. The truck have been here many times over the years and has bee updated without issue

Matt, I agree about the PP tests - and the code all by itself usually is the result of a bad MAP or BARO sensor. The code sets by itself BUT It did set an EBP sensor circuit code... ONCE. The turbo has been reconditioned, tested and inspected, known good VGT solenoid tried, new EGR valve, New EBP and pigtail, new MAP sensor, known good BARO sensor tried, new PCM, checked the CAT for being broken (it is good) inspected the EGR throttle plate and it springs back to open as it should. According to the HotLine an exhaust leak, intake leak or restrictions can skew the MAP reading and cause this. But intermittently? If I disconnect the EGR valve its fine. If I disconnect the EBP sensor its fine but it does overboost. If I recall, putting the turbo at 50% its fine too. I have also verified fuel pressure while driving and it stays up. Now I am circling around, checked the MAP and EBP circuits and VREF voltage. I am fixated on air management and the EGR in particular based on how the truck feels, sounds and the fact that watching out the right mirror when I dip into the throttle as this happens, I get a good puff of white/gray smoke and then a burst of black and then the engine jumps to life. Does not happen cold, progressively gets worse as the engine warms up and is almost consistent when at full temp. .

Well, for the first time ever... I am stumped!

Now I feel like they are dragging their feet. 12:30 the next day and still no answer.

So, now that my service advisors have had so much shit piled on them I thought might try to do more to get some of my jobs expedited a little quicker. My dealer is on ESP prior approval for repairs over $1200. No big deal, right? I mean I have done cost caps and prior approvals for engines and transmissions... injectors and so for years now. But ESP... WTF is this shit all about? You fill out the form. THEN they want more information. No problem. THEN they want pictures. Data plate, all four tires, entire vehicle, odometer, license plate, underside of the vehicle, the fluid and of course, the failed parts. I have well over a 1/2 hour doing all of this crap and the icing on the cake - you can't claim the "PRIOR" op code for ESP repairs??? FUCK ME!

Did you verify fuel pressure on this truck? WHILE driving? Just askin.

I have a rough one here that is hard to pin down. 2005 Excursion with a P0069 Continuous and the drivability issue is intermittent lack of power - the engine feels and sounds like it is choking and emits black smoke. Does not happen cold, only once warmed up it seems and then it goes away, comes back. The first tech taking a whack at it had put in an EGR valve (sticking) and a MAP sensor. Truck came back. I originally had an EBP circuit code and ended up putting an EBP in it. Long story short, if I follow the PCED it never has be checking circuits and depending on how I answer the first test, its either "cant duplicate at this time" or if I proceed it leads me to replace the PCM. I have 5V VREF but I am checking it in the bay while the problem is not occurring. Performed a wiggle test on the harness and substituted a known good BARO sensor. I just hat throwing PCMs at trucks without solid evidence its bad but... Anyone had a tough one like this or what have you been seeing with this code? I have only run across this a few times over the years.

I talked with one of my coworkers and yeah, this is done to repair lifter bores and modify race engines where larger lifters are desired. To me, it would make sense to have the sleeve installed and bring the bore back into specification.

Is there such a thing as a lifter bore sleeve?

Usually it's injectors when cold start performance issues clear up when the engine gets to operating temperature. Checking fuel pressure is a must.

Ghee, ya know, I haven't broken ONE since I got my Beydler drill guide for the 6.7L EGR pipe.

And hope you aren't the "next guy" that has to take that pipe off!

I don't think I have ever done that but I have left several completely disconnected. And you immediately know it the first time you hit the accelerator pulling out of the shop.

You didn't mention if the truck is fixed now but I assume that it is. Personally, I would not get involved with someone else's problems - especially legal ones. Just sayin.

What is the definition of the PIDs?

I really want to know how they can justify the price on things like this.

You are right - that was a flat-rate assumption I made about pulling that apart. Since I didn't need to replace the rotors I never read the procedure in the WSM. At first glance it certainly looks a lot like the old semi-floating rear and those axle shaft bolts look like they are holding the rotors on. And the bearing nut socket is new too #205-1007 part of the TKIT-2014C-FL kit. Nothing like reading the fuckin manual eh?

Yes, those rear rotors are thick - minimum thickness is 15mm and they actually cut well aside from the thickness variation issue I had which since I made my original post I discovered is due to the fact that the pad contact area is much narrower than the face of the rotor. So I anticipate running across this every time I machine these rotors. If you do a lot of truck work and do brakes often you really need to get your shop to invest in a good on-car lathe that will do trucks as well. I can't believe my company sprung for it because it is rather expensive... about 8 months ago we got a brand new Pro-Cut A10 Warthog which has more torque and is a larger machine altogether. I now regularly cut front and rear SRW rotors and fronts on DRW vehicles all the way up to F550's. They claim it will do F750 rotors as well. It is more common though for the rear rotors to be way too far gone (pitted or ground up) to machine. Otherwise, I commonly just do a level 1 service (especially with DRW trucks) and have no issues at all. There is an adapter you will need to bolt up to 8 and 10 lug hubs that does not come with any of the machines - part number 50-935

One of our customers with a small fleet of new Transits runs a large bakery and supplies Northern NJ and New York City, puts about 1000 miles a week on these things. Right rear brake is grinding at 17,000 miles. I pulled the wheels and the rears are simply worn out. Fronts still have a good 7mm left. I measured the rotor and decided I had enough to save it which I did with the final thickness measuring 15.47mm (min spec is 15mm) I had a hell of time though. I noticed that the rotors had worn concave - wearing heavier through the middle of the rotor on both sides. Some manual turning of the lathe feed was needed to knock down the beginning and end of the rotor faces. Couple of notes: I did use an on the car lathe which is a must have and its one of those vehicles you have to disconnect the driveshaft. If you want to replace the rear rotors you will have to pop the diff cover and pull the axle shafts. I want to slap the guy that approved that design. You will also need to remove the caliper brackets to allow the lathe arms all the way in to machine the entire rotor face.

6.0L - 2,4,6 6.4L - 1,3,5 6.7L - 5,6,7 On a 6.0L #'s 1 and 3 are easy enough to get to but you need to remove the CAC tube and still deal with the heater box which can make getting your test fitting into the hole difficult at best.. It's easiest to just loosen the intake tube clamp and remove the air filter and tube assembly and you will then have a straight shot at the left bank cylinders. On a 6.4L the left bank requires draining the coolant, removing the battery, the battery tray/coolant reservoir but if you just remove the air filter assembly you can get at the right bank glow plugs easily with the exception of #7 - the heater box restricts access with the test adapter.. On a 6.7L the right bank is well blocked by the EGR coolers which are close to the battery and the air filter housing which can be a bitch to get out. The left bank is not covered by much at all except for the noise shield held on with those annoying plastic screw retainers. Once you get pissed and break those off and fold back rip the fucking the cover off you can get to the glow plugs under the fuel rail.

Not sure what you mean by a package but in dealing with apprentices and mentoring diesel techs, patience is required. My own approach has been to instruct and give them space to do it and figure it out. I encourage to ask a questions but please read the service manual first! If you can teach them to do that then you made good progress.