Keith Browning

BIG chafe area to inspect is near the front of the left ale cover - harness chafes on the dipstick bracket, dipstick bracket mounting stud on the valve cover bolt and the bracket for the PCM.

Ahhh, but it did! And by the way, a new pump corrected all oil pressure, long crank and power loss issues.

THAT explanation I would believe. I have the new pump and the ball is staked pretty good but I see no evidence in the old pump of such measures. These pumps do commonly fail from he drum housing spinning in the case and I can see how it might cause a reverse flow condition. Personally, I don't see how these engines can even run with that happening. Also, that bore being open like that is a HUGE leak and I am surprised that it does not draw air. This tells me that the LPOP is capable of some decent volume it can feed the engine and that pump and overcome the leak. Here are the pictures of the pump and swashplate housing that spun:

Thanx Gents. This and previous posts pointed right to this:

Never came across this before. A buddy of mine has a 2005 Sierra that needs an ABS sensor. Came across this and stopped him dead in his tracks. Asked me about it and my mind went blank.

Did you get this one straightened out!

I am sure that some if not all of you have been seeing the free Windows upgrade icon on your system tray. (all white windows logo on the bottom right) Apparently Microsoft has "fixed" what people have been unhappy with on Windows 8 and made a lot of bug fixes. It replaces all Windows 7 and Windows 8 versions except Enterprise from what I understand and will be available for downloading on July 29, 2015. I would be happy to hear anyone's experiences with upgrading and using Win 10 when you do. All of my PC's and laptops are eligible. http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/features

My new coworker of mine built a set of these. As impressed as I was with this, I was equally leery about it. That is a lot of weight to have teetering on two points. Definitely trick though!

I haven't done one in a while but many things can simply be "peeled" away and moved aside and or left in place as Leon stated. I simply pull the condenser forward a little, make enough room to lift the radiator straight up. It's light but quite wide so depending on how big of a guy you are, getting someone to help lift it out can make things go easier - same goes for putting the new one in.

After years of dealing with emergency equipment killing batteries while in my shop I FINALLY made up a proper extension cord for shoreline usage. Does anyone know that the proper usage is for these things? Are they intended to be plugged in constantly while parked inside a garage? I just want to be sure.

Low oil pressure specification in the WSM is 12 @ hot idle. I wonder what the "typical reading" is. Steve, this is a late early build with the ICP on the right valve cover and has a cast iron HPOP cover.

Only thing Mike, is that I have never seen a "bad" pump cause a LPOP pressure concern. But, I have never run into one of the missing ball deals. It also really does not behave like it has a standpipe/block off leak. I dunno, it just doesn't fit that scenario, but you're right I should not rule that end of it out though.

Believe it or not I have never run into this before. A 2004 F450, 100,000 miles, build date 1/26/2004 with a reported lack of power.I road test it and yep, it loses power when you get on it and once it's hot, the oil pressure gauge flat lines. P2290 and P2291 in memory. I road tested it and at full throttle, it bogs down and IPR goes up to 84% and ICP drops to a constant 484 PSI. Base oil pressure is 4PSI @ hot idle. After cold soak it cranks a good 10-15 seconds and then starts. I also pulled the oil filter after an overnight sitting and it appeared as the housing was full. So I am likely losing pressure somewhere and the High Pressure system is losing prime on a cold soak.Decided to pull out the LPOP to inspect. The gears, front cover and pump cover look decent with some minor scoring which I expect with high mileage. No gouges or signs of debris. Measurements are well inside specification The regulator slid right out and has no scoring at all. So I am looking elsewhere. I don't suspect base engine damage at this time.I read through a bunch of posts here. It seems as though all three of my symptoms fit the missing ball concern... there are several posts and pictures about a ball falling out of the HPOP on 03-04 engines. Does this affect ALL of the early type pumps? I am considering pulling it out for a look. Opinions?

And the saga continues. Just lovely.

I had two Transits in the air today for PDI's and there is DEFINATELY room for that AWD transmission and halfshafts. It will require a different sub frame of course. And, looking at the wheel and knuckle from underneath it looks like there is an open space to accommodate the shafts. There is a plug in the opening of the back of the wheel bearing hub that spins with the wheel. I bet an AWD option is in our future.

So I saw a brand spankin new Ford F150 King Ranch edition in the shop getting a mechanical pre-delivery inspection. Absolutely gorgeous truck. Then I look at the sticker. $65,000+ for a damn 1/2 ton truck!!! Is Ford insane? Are we as a society stupid for paying THAT much for that truck... Or am I just pissed that I can't afford it? Did I mention it's a gorgeous truck... But $65k???

I found this in the Ford UK Transit eBrochure on page 6, explains everything for me. Sheds a little light on how its done. Quigley who?

THAT would make sense.

I don't think it can with the current configuration. Have you been under a Transit yet? There is NO room for an axle and a driveshaft of any kind in my opinion. If I am not mistaken the Eropean Transit is available in AWD though... I don't know what the difference in the chassis is but Ford makes it. It does not appear to be available in North America at the moment. I imagine that since Mercedes now offers 4X4 in the Sprinter it will become available at some point. We shall see.

En ex-coworker did this on a 5.4L he installed. Went nuts for about an hour trying to figure it out. Gave up and went home for the night. Took me 5 minutes to discover the mishap and adjust the oil level. I did not tell him how I fixed it for a day or so just to torture him. Same guy replaced a clutch and "forgot" to remove the wooden spacer blocks and could not figure out why he had no clutch pedal. I tortured him with that one also.

This will be on my dime. I quoted out a unit as a worst case scenario. $4,603 with tax. Labor for free of course. My plan is to do all of the bearings as I have heard that its not always/only the input shaft. I found the TSB - attached. Not for 2007 Models but I cant see it not being applicable... or at least it's good for the basic part numbers. Scenario 1 is what I am dealing with. So the obvious repair here is input shaft and bearing, filters, seal/bolt kit and fluid. tsb06-11-04.pdf

Tool/model number?

Which bearings brad? ALL of them? Even though the symptom points to the input shaft I am advised that some of the other bearings can and do go as well. The seal kit from what I understand is pricy and it contains all of the bolts needed for reassembly. Originally aluminum I understand replacements are steel. We have a tech here that says he has done a few of these so I am getting good advice. I don't think anyone else in our shop has done one. We don't see too many and they are unfixable most of the time.

Bearings is what I am reading... Ran my VIN on OASIS and did not get any SSMs or TSBs. One thing I have found on line is that there has been a class action suit files against Ford for CVT owners of 500, Freestyles.

Well, I WAS warned. My 2007 Freestyle is making the helicopter noise in Park and Neutral with 66,000 miles. I am trying to figure out what the best way to approach this financially. Try fixing it, trade it in or drive it until it fails and then install an expensive reman or junk it. We love this car. I am freaking out to say the least because on top of this my Explorer is all used up as well. So, has anyone here had any experience with this? Fixing these CVT transmissions or know how long I might expect this to last? I am researching this and I read a lot about input shafts and bearings. The unit operates fine otherwise.