Keith Browning

I would love to know the explanation of that one. You change the software... and now the hardware (on random vehicles) is no good?

The few Dodge versions that roll through our shop do not look like anything special. And the guys in the Chrysler shop hate working on them.

For the first time ever I just saw a Sprinter commercial on television. I wonder if they are worried about The Ford Transit. Oh, the parting shot of the commercial: "now available in 4X4."

Got to the mid 30's today!

MAN its warming up now but we are supposed to get another blast of record breaking cold by the weekend here. How about that weather huh?

The theory is that when removing the head bolts the cylinder heads distort, stressing the injector body. I don't think I have ever seen evidence of this. I personally remove the injectors however because it's in the WSM, cleaning and inspection purposes and the fact that leaving them in leaves the susceptible to damage as already observed.I just wanted to float this question out there.

Aside from that, most if not all engines that have a failed D-ring should have all of the o-rings serviced. Frequently more than one degrades so it makes sense to replace all of them. The shiny plug goes in the ICP sensor hole on the left oil rail which on the 4.5L in LCFs seem to commonly blow out but rarely on 6.0L engines

That would make sense Tony, since the turbo uses engine oil pressure with the VGT actuator. I wonder if they are researching this.

Awesome. A late reply with the fix is always appreciated and valuable.

ANY concern? I contacted the Hot Line last week for a check engine light concern, no mention of engine oil recommendation.

I have heard many times that the practice of removing a cylinder head with the injectors still installed in it can damage them. Has anyone ever seen proof of this? and what was the result?

Start an hotline report and look through the other completed sessions. If you don't find evidence of contamination or metal flakes I might agree that the rail is the wag to go. I would open a Report any way.

I also have a "flushing brick" that has a double use as my "blow up brick." I love tools that multi-task - they don't call me the "Alton Brown" of mechanics for nothing!

I would not be too concerned with your diagnosis. Low fuel supply pressure/volume is one possible cause for this code as are a bunch of other seemingly non issues. Injection problems, BASE ENGINE faults for example.

The truck I am working on here - the regulator did not fix this issue. As per the Hot Line I replaced the entire fuel rail on the left side so I cant be positive what corrected the condition. THis truck would not pass the High Pressure Fuel System test until I replaced the rail.

The FIRST thing you should take away from this is that @12 hours the job was quoted at LESS THAN WARRANTY time. I would be pissed off at the people I work with for not properly quoting the job. As a CP labor job I would have quoted a MINIMUM of 19 hours... More depending on condition of the vehicle and more for any body related equipment (bus) that is in the way requiring removal - stuff that is not listed in the TSB or STLS guide. That would normally be add-on M-time operations above and beyond. Did you even run OASIS and read TSB 09-8-3?

I think at that point I would much rather stay at home.

Diagnosing this code now. Followed the Pinpoint tests M and ME and came to no resolution. PCED says replace PCM. If I run a self test the truck passes. Clear the code the light goes off, released the truck and it came back on a few days later. The only thing I saw on this was the Pressure regulator did not respond in PPT M14.

I woke up to -14 degrees yesterday morning here in NJ. I don't think I have ever seen temps this low, ever. It was a good day to go out into the lot and see which trucks would fire and unbelievably all but one started and some had injection problems. The one trouble maker had batteries that just did not like the bold despite testing "good" by the Rotunda battery test 5 weeks ago. I actually expected the us usual stream of trucks being dragged in for not starting or dying after the fuel gelled up. To my surprise not a one! I think that they have all learned to use fuel conditioner by this time of the season but I am sure someone out there had problems.

Wow, we have been messing with tis code for a while now. We cant be the only techs having issues with it. I will admit I have not come across this code in quite a while though.

I stumbled upon this today. Interesting stuff http://www.learnengineering.org

Well look at it this way Matt, Chris did not pay for the FICM so, if the customer wants his truck running he needs to supply another FICM or sell him a FORD REMAN. I will say though, if you are working at your dealership and you install non-OEM parts or parts supplied by the customer you are asking for trouble.

I am calling bullshit on the guy's response. A stock FICM would never do this and to be quite honest, I cannot see how the engine not firing could possibly cause a failure of the FICM. What difference would it make if the engine does not fire right away? That is the difference between the engine actually running and cranking with the injectors enabled? Depending on how much air is in the oil and fuel systems I can see and have heard injectors clicking while cranking for several seconds while cranking. The only thing that might affect the module is low battery power - if that is what is frying the resisters or the DC-DC converters then his "upgrades are only going to aggravate that condition. How many shadetree guys fixing their own trucks have cranked the piss out of their engines after making similar repairs? To be honest, I have not read any bad commentary concerning FICMREPAIR.com on the public forums so I am a little surprised. Were there any instructions from them with the "repaired" FICM stating not to do that? He has problems like this with Ford dealers all the time? FUCK HIM! Sounds like he has a problem. This is what can happen when you deviate from OEM. Just sayin. Keep us posted on how this progresses.

I have now resided to reusing all of the parts (except if they are damaged) and leaving the not so wavy plate in there and adjusting the clearance with the selective snap ring to get the clearance into the proper specification. It usually takes one of the thicker rings that are in the parts listings. The results have been excellent. The shift quality is perfect so I really question how effective that wavy plate really is on this transmission. The plate is not very thick or strong either. Its electronically controlled so shift time and feel being programmable and adjustable through the adaptive learning I would think that would be enough. Seems to me anyway and the results I have gotten seem to support that. But, I am no engineer. Having a sloppy clutch combined with the adaptive strategy will give you a hard shift every time. I have a couple extra clutch plates hanging around now so removing the wave and doubling up on the bottom plate might get you into spec iin a pinch. I know my parts department does not stock any snap rings and I don't expect them to. Waiting an extra day to order additional parts lie select fit snap rings and thrust washers is just part of the deal.

I have found that disconnecting the right engine mount and jacking/lifting the engine up helps immensely. The 6.4L coffee table book is in the "Inside DTS" tab above in the drop down menu. Takes you to the articles page where I have all of the existing coffee table Books. Keep in mind this is the Power Stroke version and not the Max Force version.