Keith Browning

What about the complete rocker assemblies? On 6.4L engines when I find any problems with rockers it's always more than one so I order and install the entire deal. I am curious if those have been "updated" as well. Anyway, good find and I looks like you discovered something here.

I just qualified on the Cummins CM2350 engine control system this week. It was no surprise and I guess it has slipped past me that these engines were now OBD-2 compliant as they are supposed to be now. (this is what happens when there are large gaps in your training schedule) We know that the Cummins ISB 6.7L had an aftertreatment system but they are now (since 2013 production) equipped with SCR and OBD-2. The course covered mid-range and heavy duty engines - ISB, ISL and ISX series. The course was mostly an update to the previous certification and for any tech with a background and experience with Ford diesels for example this is old news. The exhaust aftertreatment It is for the most part exactly like the Ford system. The trouble I had which in the end was not a problem was the lack of familiarity with Cummins, the QSOL website and the INSITE software. This was quickly overcome however. The instructor has a great approach to instruction and the other techs in the class were as friendly and helpful as you could want them to be. One of the new tings I was thrust into with no familiarity at all was the Cummins EDS (Expert Diagnostic System) which is a guided diagnostic system that guides a tech through pinpoint tests where each and every step is logged with your findings and results. The system keeps a database of fault codes and conditions and with time becomes smarter and more accurate. This is similar to the guided diagnostics in the Ford workshop manuals but takes it much further. First, its use is mandatory. Your diagnostic session will take the steps you completed and not only log them, create an audit trail but also show the relevant and claimable labor ops and times. It even promotes leaving notes and feedback. An engine ECM Image must also be uploaded. I am impressed with how far the HD part of the industry has come!

Oh don't get me wrong, the prybar method sometimes still requires effort on some trucks. But, it has yet to fail me.

I am having trouble with this statement. I do not see how you can accurately measure crankcase pressure with the MAF sensor. Perhaps "detect" the presence of excessive pressure but not measure it by any means. The air management and exhaust systems on these engines have a lot of things going on. I know that engineering has been able to map data samples from various sensors and match it with certain conditions so I think it is reasonable to expect that MAF can detect the presensce of excessive crankcase pressure but not measure it. I cannot find anything in print in the related literature to support or refute this however. So now my mind has this question nagging at me. Thanx!

I am getting that déjà vu feeling.

I don't like Onions.

I am in total agreement with this and sometimes this is the best you can hope for. If you only have one or two injectors acting up on ONE bank at least replace them all on the affected side.

Be careful yupdating.

That is what I do... using a 5'prybar that I borrow from a co-worker. I like those stud tools too though but never bought one.

The crankcase ventilation sensor monitors the crankcase ventilation hose connection at the air inlet of the turbocharger. The crankcase ventilation sensor signal to the PCM indicates if the crankcase ventilation hose is connected or disconnected. It first appeared on 2013 model trucks with 6.7L Power Stroke engines. I recall replacing one early on that had failed. From what I read on this (and understand) is that it only monitors whether the vent hose is connected and does not actually monitor crankcase pressure. The Cummins 6.7L ISB engine DOES have a functioning crankcase pressure sensor. Which I am sure you are not confusing here. I just wanted to throw that tid-bit of information in.

The problem I had was a Snap-On T45 is a 3/8" drive socket which is too at and interferes with the top of the injector. Torx sockets slip easily if they are on an angle. I bought a T30 and a replacement T45 bit and installed it into the T30 socket and now I have a 1/4" drive T45. As a matter of fact I have two because I misplaced it at one time and made another.

Ditto. You can even use a hand held propane torch 8 or 10 inches away from the opening to warm the plastic tube up.

This does seem a bit fishy doesn't it?

There are different kits available depending on what engine an application you are working on. 6.0L F-Series, 6.0L Econoline, 4.5L LCF. The different kits contain different housing covers and minor hardware differences. All unnecessary.The only kit you need for any of these engines 6E7Z-9C165-B which contains the spring, regulator valve, seat insert, air bleed orifice, the o-rings and four bolts. You do not need to replace the cover unless of course you damaged it somehow.

Agreed and there seems to be a consensus on this as there should be. Any time you see a "system wide" condition that affects the injector, like fuel contamination or low fuel pressure, it means that the entire set of injectors was exposed to the condition. Just because one or two are acting up, the remaining injectors will have a high probability of failure as well if left behind. This is not good for customer satisfaction or your reputation. While they cost a lot to replace the entire set, doing so in multiple repair attempts will be even costlier.

Mine bit the dust about a year ago. The lights are on but nobody is home.

Actually, the CCV system on the Cummins ISB 6.7L has a filter assembly mounted on the top or back of the engine depending on the ordered configuration. It does a good job and the filter actually has a maintenance interval as it can clog. The engine control system has a crankcase pressure sensor that monitors crankcase pressure and as you might suspect, will set a code and turn on some warning lights on the dash.

Yes it is real - no joke. I am still trying to comprehend the need for it. I thought the stink and noise were part of the joy in owning a diesel. Hey, if it wouldn't mess with the chemistry and effectiveness, do you think somebody would come up with a deodorizer/scent to put in the DEF tank?

.003"-.004"

I think now I have seen everything.

I had another topic on one of these shifting hard into 2nd and 6th where I found that the intermediate clutch clearance was excessive. Three times the maximum specification as a matter of fact. There was no observable wear or damage. I am into another unit for a low reverse failure and I always go through the entire unit while it is on the bench. Sure enough, I found the intermediate clutch as loose as the last with 1.5mm clearance and again, no wear or damage. Something has to be up with this. The wavy cushion ring appears to be fairly flat but I recall a new one wasn't much better, but it was. I am thinking that the wavy ring is not holding up and or these are not being properly set at the factory. So this time I am not going to replace anything but the select fit snap ring and bring the clutch pack into specification. The way I see it the ring, if it is flattening with use will only happen again with a new ring. Do we really need to "cushion" a clutch in an electronically controlled transmission? This customer was not complaining about any harsh shifting but I do not want to have to take it back out in the future. I am wondering if any of you are coming across this and also to keep this in mind - if you have one apart take a look at this clutch and measure the clearance and see what you have regardless of weather it is the causal part or not. My curious mind wants to know! I'll add a couple pics later...

Any grease in them or on the fitting? I have realized for some time that greasing front-end components (for trucks that still have them) is frequently overlooked. If I am not mistaken, they ALL have u-joint fittings though.

I am not Brad but I play him on Tee-Vee. And I have heard the towing theory on these one way clutched being destroyed. Ever turn the driveshaft on one of these while up on a lift? You hear the clutch clicking away... imagine this happening at road speed with no transmission fluid flowing and splashing around to lubricate and cool... considering the original post, the energy company that brings us these trucks actually tows them to AND FROM the dealership after repairs are complete.

The OOC is part of the rear section that was updated. You cant get the one-way-clutch by itself as it comes with the shell and planetary... FYI. I have no idea why its on back order though but it seems like a lot of things I need lately are backordered or cross shipped.

The real reason for my posting this is because I was wondering if anyone has ever set the FIPL switch using just a volt meter and what the voltage is when properly set using this procedure... minus the Star Tester of course. I still see these on rare occasions and I suspect that at some point our Super Star II is going to become unusable or go missing therefore knowing how to do this with a 1/2" socket extension and a volt meter might be good to know ahead of time. Throttle Position (FIPL) Sensor The Throttle Position (FIPL) sensor is used on E-250-350, F-250-350, and F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 7.3L diesel engine and an E4OD automatic transmission. The TP (FIPL) sensor is a potentiometer attached to the fuel injection pump and is operated by the throttle lever. The TP (FIPL) sensor is incorporated to provide an electrical signal, which is proportional to the amount of fuel being delivered, as an input to the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly (TECA) Based on this information, the TP (FIPL) provides the proper shift scheduling and torque capacity. Should a malfunction occur in the TP (FIPL) sensor circuit, the electrical signal sent to the TECA will be recognized as erroneous. When this out-of-specification signal is detected, the TECA will provide a high-capacity operating mode that protects the transmission from potential damage. This operating mode includes maximum TV pressure, resulting in harsh upshifts and engagements and a singular shift schedule regardless of accelerator pedal position, resulting in the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts occurring at a speed commensurate with a heavy (but not wide open) throttle setting. Should harsh or poorly scheduled shifts be encountered, perform Key-On, Engine-Off On-Board Diagnostics to determine the appropriate repair to be performed and correct as necessary before proceeding. Should it be necessary to service the TP (FIPL) sensor, refer to the following procedure. To check the TP (FIPL) sensor for proper operation and to make any adjustments the engine MUST be turned off. 1. Perform Key-On, Engine-Off On-Board Diagnostics and wait for all the DTCs to be issued. NOTE: The throttle must be held to the floor, during Key-On, Engine-Off On-Board Diagnostics until the codes have begun to issue from the STAR Tester Transmission Control. 2. After the last DTC has been issued, press the Transmission Control Switch (TCS), this will initiate the TP (FIPL) sensor adjustment mode and allow the STAR Tester to be used as an "audible guide" in setting the TP (FIPL) sensor. NOTE: The STAR Tester remains in the adjustment mode for only ten minutes. Steps 3-5 must be completed within this time period. If the ten minute time limit is exceeded this procedure must be repeated from Step 1. 3. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle lever on the right side of the fuel injection pump. 4. Insert the VRV Gauge Block T92T-7B200-AH (0.515 inch) between the gauge boss and the maximum throttle travel screw. Hold the throttle lever open against the gauge block. A steady tone indicates the TP (FIPL) sensor is properly adjusted. If the setting is too low the STAR Tester will issue a slow beep (1 per second), if the setting is too high the STAR Tester will issue a fast beep (4 per second). NOTE: The TP (FIPL) sensor bracket is permanently attached to the pump with tamper-proof screws. Movement of the bracket is not intended as a means for adjustment. If required, adjustment of the TP (FIPL) sensor may be accomplished by utilizing the clearance between the sensor to bracket screws and the sensor. NOTE: If the TP (FIPL) sensor bracket is loose, remove the epoxy from the bracket to pump mounting screws, adjust the TP (FIPL) sensor/bracket assembly to obtain a steady tone, retighten the screws, and reapply epoxy to the screw heads. 5. To adjust, loosen the two screws that attach the TP (FIPL) sensor to the mounting bracket. Rotate the TP (FIPL) sensor until a steady tone is heard from the STAR Tester. If the setting is too low the STAR Tester will issue a slow beep (1 per second), if the setting is too high the STAR Tester will issue a fast beep (4 per second). Once a steady tone is heard, tighten the attaching screws to 8-10.5 Nm (75-90 in-lb). If the TP (FIPL) sensor cannot be adjusted to obtain a steady tone, replace the TP (FIPL) sensor and repeat this procedure from Step 1. 6. Remove the gauge block. Cycle the throttle lever from idle to wide open throttle (WOT) five times. Reinsert the gauge block to verify the setting. If the tone is not steady then readjustment is necessary. Repeat this procedure from Step 5. Remove the gauge block. Reattach the throttle cable. Start the engine. Check throttle operation and transmission shift scheduling and quality. WARNING: DO NOT TURN THE MAXIMUM THROTTLE TRAVEL SCREW. THIS SCREW HAS BEEN PRESET AND SHOULD NOT BE ADJUSTED. CAUTION: If replacing the (TP) Fuel Injection Pump Lever sensor, refer to the TSB's, Oasis master parts catalog for the latest release of the (TP) FIPL.