Keith Browning

I aint talkin' bout chicken n' gravy biatch.

I read the manual on the EGR cooler... out the top. Starts with removing the valve cover I think

The stubby Torx bit is the answer. Mine is a Snap-On TTX30E - drive the bit out of the socket, cut maybe 1/4" or a little more from the bottom and drive it back into the socket. Works perfectly.

You can't to it in chassis but it also does not require being put on an engine stand either as long as all you are replacing is the valve stem seals. The V-10 I did I simply pulled the engine forward out of the chassis and did the seals right there hanging on the hoist.

What? You couldn't weld a nut onto the broken bolt and back it out?

Our company finally fixed their internet problems - used to be very slow most of the time, wireless would go down frequently. I was having a lot of IDS problems as a result of it. They installed commercial routers to replace the "off the shelf" home routers that were there. If you are using the VCM-2 you should be connecting using an ad-hock network and not through a wireless router. This simply means it's a dedicated two way network between the VCM and your computer.

That is pretty funny BUT it's $369!

Your browser must be having a fit. The link is in the first post... at least I see it.

Yep, Just saw it.

I have no accurate info on cores. I am assuming that completely destroyed cores are worthless. Perhaps I shouldn't assume but it is difficult to collect from a customer after the bill has been paid and the truck is gone. Not to mention I do not want to be held responsible if that situation were to arise. At least one grenaded pump went to a good cause for the benefit of others. I think I still have a set of 6.7L injectors plugged solid with DEF crystals too!

I am quite familiar with wiring problems in that area and have found exactly the same thing as you more than once. Seems that the wires chafe on the end of the convolute tubing when it is loaded with abrasive road dirt. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles.html/_/dtsarticles/huntingWiringConcerns

Here is a Bloomberg article on NHTSA investigation on faulty EGT sensors in Diesel equipped Super Duty trucks. I wonder how far this will go and what the result will be. I understand why it is done but I have always questioned the fact that a truck is rendered completely inoperative when an EGT sensor failure occurs. It will be interesting to see if it progresses into more...http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2015-01-17/ford-pickups-face-probe-after-stalling-stranding-drivers.html

Was there always a core charge on these? Most of the ones I installed were replacing grenaded pumps and injectors that were solidly gunked up from the DEF. I charged the customers for the core thinking that the pump and injectors were not salvageable at all. VERY important to know especially when putting together a quote and before ordering parts. It is also important to include removing and rinsing out the fuel tank.

I have seen this. On 2 or 3 cutaway chassis school busses. Wont shift out of park... no voltage coming from the SJB to the shift lock solenoid. I recall there being a SSM on this but I cant locate it without a VIN. I don't think it was a TSB... I could be wrong. Yes, a new SJB corrects the concern - reprogramming alone will not.

I have a tee made up and use a gauge from the gauge bar though I have been meaning to buy an inexpensive gauge for this. I really don't use this set up for EGR cooler diagnosis ever as failed EGR coolers are usually either very obvious or there are better visual checks and inspections that will reveal a failed EGR cooler that are more definitive. IMHO... but this method will (hopefully) lead you in the right direction. Head gaskets - absolutely!

The timing chains are a non-maintenance item.

Silly as it sounds I have never heard of such a tool but it stands to reason that they exist. A new tech started working at my dealer and shared this answer to dealing with the 6.7L secondary radiator petcock. You know, the one oriented toward the bumper that can fight you when you try to open it? Yeah, that one. Use the small socket on a 1/4" ratchet and open that thing easily. http://thexton.com/index.cfm/pageid/27 1/4” drive set includes a steel universal socket to fit radiators, engine blocks, storage tanks, etc. with an O-ring to hold a 7/8” wrench in place. Set also has a molded plastic socket to fit narrow wing plastic drain fittings, both plug and flow-through types.

Brass on the last one I did... maybe 3 months ago.

Oddly enough I was thinking about Jim recently

Well this topic certainly opened up Pandora's box now didn't it? I'll bet he wasn't expecting this. Will he choose to open the box or buy the tools?

But did you ask your Service Manager to replace the missing equipment? Technically, it is HIS responsibility to ensure that the dealerships tools and equipment are present and in safe working condition.. Wink Wink.

Not needed as in a "special tool" is not needed to get the job done.

Most of that is included in the Special Service Tools that your dealership should have on hand. You can make an IPR power feed by salvaging a harness connector and making one with some wire and alligator clips. Don't need a special puller fro the EGR valve. BUT a few of those tools, if they are no longer available at your dealer might be worth the cost of the kit. You could probably source them out individually on a need to have basis. If you were working as an independent this would not be a bad investment. JMHO

Aaron this was a Ford sensor which incidentally applies to ALL available engines, gas and diesel for numerous model years. There had to be something else wrong with the truck but I will likely never know despite my efforts to look outside of the gauge operation itself. The gauge was adjusted to operate in an acceptable manner by installing resisters into the circuit. Not a real repair but this is what was decided and well, it is working, for now.

Sometimes we cross the line so far and above we never remember ever seeing it.