Keith Browning

Thought I mentioned this but I apply anti-seize compound to the bolts going back together. The way I see it I could be the poor bastard that has to take the truck apart again someday.

Are those the bolts way down in the valley that break? I got my first 2 trucks with restricted coolers I diagnosed today. Yes they are - down near the cylinder head. There is plenty of room to deal with them if one or both break off. I normally do not remove the intake to remove the EGR coolers and this last truck I had to take the upper off to use the pipe as a guide. Also had to remove the heater tube - neither is a big deal just thought I would mention it.

I think I have seen one come back to get a pump.

I was thinking the same thing but I didn't have a legit reason to warranty or scrap the pipe.

I actually tried that with no luck obviously. I notice that with any of these bolts for these pipes that the threads tend to gall which is probably why they break. When these break on me they usually break free and turn once or twice and tighten up then break. Trying to turn them back in in an attempt to "work" them doesent work either. Once they tighten and seize that's it.

Hoooolieeeee sheeeeyit! I almost had to put a head on one today. Both bolts broke off and had to be drilled. I got one repaired just fine. The second I could not get the drill to center and started drilling wayyyyy off. I thought that I could really use a drill guide and then it hit me to take the pipe and install it with the one bolt and use the pipe flange itself as a drill guide. Worked like a freakin charm.

Better hope you still have one when you need it!

And ironically the engine can sometimes run surprisingly well with the fuel pump not running. I think it was a 7.3L I discovered this on.

Looking at the wiring schematic will tell you how the fuel pump circuit is supplied voltage and how the inertia switch is employed - IF there is one on the truck. F-Series and E-Series 6.0L AND F-Series 6.4L PSD engines - the IFS completes/interrupts the fuel pump power circuit between the switched site of the relay and the pump itself and the relay is controlled by the PCM which grounds the relay coil. The PCM monitors the voltage on this circuit to determine fuel pump status. * In all of the service literature there is no documentation indicating that the IFS plays a role in in commanding the fuel pump on or off. F-Series 6.7L PSD engine - the IFS completes/interrupts the fuel pump power circuit between the switched site of the relay and the pump itself and the relay is controlled by the PCM which grounds the relay coil. The PCM monitors the voltage on this circuit and also monitors the "open" side of the IFS to determine the fuel pump status. * In all of the service literature there is no documentation indicating that the IFS plays a role in in commanding the fuel pump on or off. Transit 3.2L PSD engine - The RCM (Restraints Control Module) Communicates with the BCM (Body Control Module) which will interrupt power to the fuel pump control module by turning off the fuel pump relay. There is no IFS Rather the RCM determines if there has been a condition (collision) requiring the fuel pump to be disabled and sends the appropriate data VIA a dedicated communication circuit or ENS (Event Notification Signal) to the Body Control Module. The event notification feature provides other vehicle subsystems with information pertaining to SRS deployment or fuel cutoff status. When an impact occurs which exceeds a pre-determined threshold, the RCM sends a signal on a dedicated circuit to the BCM. When the crash signal input is transmitted, fuel cutoff is initiated, disabling the fuel system. The event notification signal is a signal provided by the RCM to the Fuel Pump Control Module. Signal communication between the RCM and the Fuel Pump Control Module allows the PCM to shut-off the Fuel Pump. * I have researched all of the WSM documentation and so far cannot find any PCM strategy for fuel shut off operation - still looking. Sometimes you have to go into other systems on the vehicle to find related information that is not included where you might expect to find it.

Forgot to update my last post: I got the sensor out without resorting to anything drastic but this was a first for me with regard to the severity of the rust. The sensor bore had rusted badly up to the point where the o-ing was and ironically this is where the problem lies as the o-ring is what gets stuck on the rust. When I broke off the top of the sensor it broke cleanly at the o-ring groove. Once I picked the o-ring out the sensor literally slid out on its own... until the o-ring on the other end got caught on the rust. At this point I had a good piece of the sensor to grab onto and work it out. Cleaned up the hole and prepared it for a new sensor. There was a lot of metal missing around AND INSIDE of the hole at this point after I got it all cleaned up. I opted to seal it with a little anaerobic sealant. This leads me to two things we do not talk about in depth yet:First, What to do to mitigate continued rusting at the block and the CMP sensor mount? I believe rust must be completely removed if possible otherwise prevention methods will be reduced in effectiveness. Paint is one option however paint apparently does not last in some areas of the country especially where I am in New Jersey. For now I have resigned to using a liberal coating of anti-size compound applied to the bare metal and around the immediate area. So far, so good for me as I have not had any repeat failures from this concern in the last 6 or 7 years since I have been seeing it. I am sure there are other methods/products that would work - please share if you have anything to add!Second, the issue at hand here is RUST JACKING of the sensor. This means that the metal under the sensor expands the surface and literally lifts the sensor away from the cylinder block effectively increasing the gap at the tip of the sensor causing weak cam signals. But what about the repair process and removing the rust which has removed and displaced the metal? Now you have a sensor mount that might allow the sensor to install further into the block potentially causing it to strike the pin on the camshaft that creates the signal thus damaging it. I do not know what the normal gap is and how much tolerance we have to deal with here but you get my point.I have looked at this and determined that on every single one of these I have "repaired" the block had not rusted under the metal insert of the sensor mount where the mounting bolt goes, effectively leaving an un-rusted circle on the block. I am of the opinion that preserving this area will allow a new sensor to seat and remain at the desired position despite there being a gap between the rest of the sensor mount and the block. So it is important to recognize and observe that circle around the sensor bolt hole on the block.

The same thing as having the wrong tire size programmed - all speed dependent items will be functioning improperly... more or less.

Matt on this 2015 I had a choice of the 5 or so different possible tire sizes available and you could choose any one of them. Not sure at all why the diesel cant be done but the gasser can. I am holding my breath though.

Actually, once upon a time we once could choose from a list of tire sizes OR enter the tire RPM or revs per mile on some vehicles though there were upper and lower limits. To determine the correct revolutions per mile for a tire, simply measure the circumference of the tire using a standard tape measure with the wheel off of the ground. Divide the actual number of the tire circumference in inches onto 63360. Round the number up or down to the nearest whole number. This will be your tire revolutions per mile. For example, a tire with the circumference of 85 inches would have an RPM value of 745.

Yep. Got me a P160A hard fault in the PCM - "Control Module Options Configuration Error" but no check engine light on... yet. So I looked into the code for further information and was sent to Relearn Vehicle Information in the Service Functions menu on IDS. This procedure DID remove DTC P160A for now. Time will tell.

Unfortunately this is one thing that is commonly lacking. Coupled with a good understanding of how whatever you are working on works and good resources a scan tool is an amazing piece of equipment in the right hands. I am still looking for the button on my computer that says "FIX TRUCK."

I have done this several times with crank sensors, this will be more of a challenge

I just had a cam sensor break off in the block trying to remove it. BAD rust. I was taking my time and trying to work it out. Anyone ever had this happen and what was your plan of attack to repair? Maybe I can clean out some of the rust in front of the o-ring and try putting a screw in it to pull on it. Other than that I suppose I am screwed and the engine has to come out.

I am actually about to install 20" tires an a 2015 F250 6.2L with stock 18's. I warned "them." Wish me luck!

I don't see 14/15 PSI as being a problem. IMHO. Why do you Gents not think that this is normal on a truck at full operating temperature? Seems to me that 8PSI is somewhat abnormal. "No pressure spikes or venting reported" kinda eliminates a head gasket concern in my mind especially on a 6.4L which is not necessarily known for head gasket problems. While there are some modifications listed there is no mention of performance add-on's or raised power output. Remember that the system pressure is necessary to raise the boiling point of the coolant approximately 3 degrees* F per 1 PSI coupled with the fact that a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol based coolant/Water will raise the initial boiling point to 106 C / 223 F... add 15 PSI and that raises your boiling point to over 268 F. Another thing to consider is that when you start modifying the cooling system by removing things and changing the system flow you can cause problems by speeding up or slowing down coolant flow in places inside the engine. This can cause hot spots and localized boiling which will also cause pressure spikes and pulsations... you know, like the conditions Ford states causes radiator concerns due to low coolant, damaged t-stats, leaking hoses and so on. Modifications... I am constantly amused that many of these truck owners that insist on removing stuff and putting on all kinds of aftermarket goodies that promise improved performance and reliability often find themselves with more problems in the end. Not too sure if it's the products or the approach. So, in my opinion I would want to know what the operating temperatures are, is my fan working, good airflow, coolant pressure spikes, coolant type and concentration and the quality of the radiator to begin with. Where am I going with this? Just thinking out loud... then again, Aaron is quoting Bill Hewitt

Funny thing is that I cant remember when the last stock 6.4L radiator I replaced was. I did come across one leaking this summer and it also had leaking hoses - of course the customer declined the repair. I do recall us discussing this some time ago and someone commenting about body flex and subsequent stress on the radiators possibly having something to do with repeat failures. They always seem top leak at the tank seams so perhaps there is something to that.

Jasper is the perfect match for my cat Ollie. Well, almost perfect... he is a dog after all!

Since it used to be this could be done, this is kinda stupid at this point isn't it? Really?!?! I would write back and ask why not as it could be done on prior year models.

I have been waiting for it's release - I will be adding it to the DTS collection immediately so don't go crazy trying to upload it

After visiting this topic several times now, it just dawned on me that this truck must have a DPF SCR delete? With a tuner to allow this? If so, how is it that the truck can run with these modifications yet some fault with said parts shut it down?Second, it is a modified truck, why the hell would waste your time trying to fix it knowing full well that is has been bastardized? I can see this is you are the one who performed the bastardization...

I get the impression by what is written here that he may not have done this correctly. Does he have a copy of the BBA bulletin Q-180-R4 that covers this in entirety? I have attached it here for you as well as bulletin Q-218 for gasoline engines. Q180R4.pdf Q-218.pdf