Keith Browning

Happens to be bolted up to a 6.2L in a 2015 F250 but appears to be the same as all other years. The truck has under 600 miles on it and looks to be in perfect condition and the trans operates perfectly (until the wrench light comes on) The only code in the PCM is a P1783 for transmission over temp condition. My initial road test did not reveal anything so I installed a new TFT sensor because I have seen plenty of those go bad. With my post repair road test I decided to stay out longer and observed the transmission temp slowly rising until it reached 240 as I returned to the dealer. I was not pushing the truck by any means. I have noticed a buzzing type noise from the transmission - like a fluid valve type buzz... So I started looking at the cooling system. I put my hand on the cooler hoses and the return line was cold and the inlet was luke-warm. A cooler flow test revealed good flow. From there I disconnected the lines at the trans and hit them with regulated air but there appears to be no blockage. I also looked in the bores for blockages... none. Just running this by you fellas to see if anyone has run into this yet. I guess I have to get the Hot-Line involved at this point.

Part 5 for those who cant read Roman. FYI I lock these topics and start a new one after 20 pages as excessively large post data in the database might cause issues so as a precaution I cut these off at 20... all this means is that you can't post there any more but the topic, all posts and images will always still be available. Carry on men!

We have been looking for techs in general. Not much coming in and applying I am afraid.

I tried an old black CMP and lost 3% on the PER_DEL_8 and it's a wee bit smoother. Cant leave that sensor in obviously so I put in another new one I had laying around and back up to almost 8%. MFDES is around 0.06 gr. IPR Hot Idle is 11.3-11.5% which I sorta expect with a rough idle. No oil aeration and it does smooth out at higher RPMs if I didn't mention that. Otherwise this thing runs well. I am now off to look at the fuel rail items: pressure, inlet screen and possible air though I would think that if I had combustion getting past injector6 I would be seeing issues of some kind on that cylinder. I am more and more thinking that there is something going on with the base engine. Nothing here points to anything "system wide" or anything related to bank 2 only... just cylinder 8.

I recently had a 2012 in that is an airport firefighting rig. Sits around idling a lot. I tried to perform a manual regen but IDS kept timing out? I have seen this before but never knew why that happens. And not much time goes by and the time bar on the screen is somewhere in the middle. Makes no sense. on the second try when this happened I let it continue and the regen did complete. Now I know this is not the same issue as the OP but I wanted to post this anyway. Did you ever find out what the problem was Steve Mutter?

I started using my new laptop last week after getting familiar with Windows 8 a little. I can say IDS works just fine with this new OS and both VCM's work properly as well. I did not try the wireless however. It is nice having a touch screen again as it is much faster and less "clunky" navigating through the menus and such as apposed to using a mouse or the touch pad. I thought it would not make a difference... but it does. Now I need to replace my broken VCM-1

Pulled an injection pump off a 7.8L New Holland Ford diesel engine in a F800 chassis. Forgot what a bitch the mounting bolts between the pump and the block were. Haven't worked on one of these in a looooong time. Had to dig for the timing pins and blow the dust off them!

the 7+% delta is well beyond what I normally see

Its a 2000 -ish 7.3L that idles rough and smoothes out when RPMs rise. There seems to be an excessive amount of black smoke on acceleration - I expect some but this truck is a little heavy, not billowing though. It originally had a P1211 for ICP higher or lower than expected however I could find no fault with the IPR or the ICP as of yet. No injector electrical codes, Fuel pressure remains in the 60's (measured at the filter housing) cylinder contribution test flags cylinder 8, #8 perf_del shows ~7.75%. I performed a manual compression test on bank 2 and all cylinders were dead even @ 475 PSI. I replaced injector 8 and still have the misfire. I substituted a known good IDM for giggles, no change. Need to brainstorm for ideas here. I am thinking perhaps there is something going on in either the fuel rail or the oil rail that is hydraulically affecting number 8. We know that that cylinder is a little sensitive to fuel pressure variations and that is the basis for this concept. I did not test fuel pressure at the head however - would probably be wise to do so.

Great deal and thank you Scott for extending this offer to DTS members. I can vouch for the quality of the guides.

A little black smoke could be considered normal on initial acceleration as long as it is not too heavy or prolonged. The other bank of injectors could have issues depending on what it was that caused the problems on the right bank whether it be low fuel pressure or fuel quality, do understand that the root cause of your injector failure affected the entire set of injectors. I have noticed over the years that after certain repairs the exhaust is loaded up causing turbo lag and all kinds of crap coming out of the tailpipe - especially if the truck has not been running well for a long time with EGR valve and injector problems, heck even FICM performance issues can load up a DOC. Before beating your head against the wall make a good visual inspection of the CAC system for leaks, and the exhaust system pre-turbo for leaks and address those. Then try updating the PCM/FICM if you haven't already. Then Clear all DTC's run a KOEO self test so the PCM can learn the EGR valve closed position, then cycle the ignition, and run the truck. Then take it out for an semi-ABUSIVE road test to accomplish two things. First, get the exhaust hot to help burn up any soot loading in the DOC. I like to run down the highway and put the transmission in a lower hear to keep the RPM's all the way up and still keep up with traffic. Run down the highway for 10 minutes or so. Second, then perform several WOT accelerations from a dead stop and then perform several WOT accelerations while already moving, like when you are entering traffic or passing another vehicle. This will also help clear out soot from the exhaust.. Usually this puts the snap back into the truck - at least it seems to work for me. After that, if you still have issues it would be prudent to look at some PIDs and verify that your turbo is functioning properly. Pinpoint Tests "KA" will help identify sensor issues EP/MAP/BARO

I don't think that the wire tie color is a good indicator at all. For example, Alliant Power 6.0L injectors can have white, grey or black ties depending on their part numbers. I would look on the injector body for laser etching that will help you potentially identify an injector. OEM has a specific marking, I know Alliant has their own marking and it's quite conceivable that others will have some identifiable marking as well.

Not a problem. Hey, I added WABAC didn't I?

Over this weekend I have significantly added to the terms and acronyms especially. I haven't updated this page in quite a while and there are many new one's. In reviewing this page I realize that I have compiled a considerable amount of content, content that comes from several sources making our terminology resource one of the most comprehensive available to us. I will keep looking... I know there is more!

Well, my IDS laptop died last week. Hard drive failure "boot drive cannot be found" error displays on a black blank screen. The hard disk just clicks. Back to my 9-year old laptop that has been the source of my frustration is to be retired. The damn thing is just too slow and now the lid is falling off from the broken hinge mounts. I can't complain at all really as that Dell Inspiron served me very well until It simply became outdated and worn out. All I ever had to do to it was add a lot of RAM and replace the video card and update the operating system a couple of times. I definately got my money's worth for sure. Just ordered me a new Dell! An Inspiron 15 7000 series with the forged aluminum body. Only thing I don't like is the lack of an optical drive which these days is not all that much of a problem. There are plenty of external drives available. I'll let you know how setting this PC up for use with PTS and IDS goes. A coworker also has just upgrade and after a bit of work he got everything working properly and the addition of a touch screen is proving to be a speedy benefit. I think that the biggest obstacle for him (and likely will be for me) is getting familiar with Windows 8 and just finding your way around the PC and making changes to settings and so on. Maybe I will make a write up on setting up a Windows 8 machine for IDS and PTS. Now I need to scrape up some more cash to replace my broken VCM-1 (which is what the money I spent on a new laptop WAS supposed to be used for)

Aaron, how "young" are you that you don't know what an H manual is? PUNK ASS KID!

Scroll to the top of this page and look at the main site menu. Inside DTS is a drop down menu... fifth word down is "Terminology." There is your link. It is not very mobile friendly at the moment. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/terminology.html

Don't think I have heard of REPEAT clamp failures. The impression I got was there were simply some defective clamps early on.

I spent a lot of time on the DTS Terminology page which I thought most of you all were aware of. I would be more than willing to continuing expansion of the terminology I already have. This terminology page includes terms, abbreviations and acronyms.

Right!

Have a truck on with P2043 for the DEF heater which despite there being a TSB we need to get prior approval for it. When responding to the question of why is the component being relaced I simply stated "because TSB X told me to". I was expecting to have to answer more questions or diagnostics to which I was planning to reply "the TSB does not require or authorize any diagnosis". <sigh> they let me down and approved Can I claim prior approval with this TSB?

Yeah I noticed this in the last year but I personally have never needed pictures for an engine approval. I have a van waiting to come in which is rumbling from the bottom end and probably has wiped out cams - as usual. I am sure this time I will need to take pics this time as well.

For real. My steel bathtub is leaking... again. About 7 or 8 years ago I put in a new drain pipe and the opening in the tub was rusting and while that repair was good for a while the inevitable has happened. I did some peeking around the valves and spouts and all appears dry and therefore I assume I now have to replace the darn tub. Dimmit! Fortunately I have more than enough spare tiles for the bottom row of tiles above the tub rail.

With no voltage on circuit LE111 there won't be a TR position signal therefore the no crank condition. And if I am not mistaken the voltage on that circuit is supposed to be VREF - 5 volts, not 12 volts. If the circuit checks out from the PCM connector to the sensors and trans connector AND a known good PCM was plugged in then I have to agree with Bruce that the PCM power and ground circuits need to be verified as well. One thing I do not see mention of here is verifying continuity of the circuit and if there was ANY voltage on circuit LE111. I wanted to go back onto FMC dealer this morning to recheck this but the site is down. I ran OASIS for the model and year and there is a TSB for no crank condition with or without the cluster being lit up like a Christmas tree. Had to do with bad splices in the harness around the drivers door sill area I THINK they were G301 and G302. I tried to find them in any obvious or relevant schematics and did not find them so I do not know how those grounds could tie into this but it's worth mentioning. I will follow up when I can log back into PTS

Well we have migrated away from Aarons question a bit. But I have to add to this as I think some of you are screwing yourselves. If you use TSB 09-8-3 as a reference, diag, replace the coolers, recondition the turbo (in my opinion you are an ass if you do not at least split them and inspect them when you have them off the engine) flush the cooling system with VC-9 and change the engine oil and filter - on an F-Series warranty time comes to 10.5. I convert warranty time to CP labor times by multiplying by 1.4 and in this case 10.5 X 1.4 comes to 14.7 hours. Back on topic - warranty pays a flat 5.0 hours to slam just an EGR cooler in one of these. Using my formula we come to 7 hours for CP labor.