Keith Browning

6.7L POWER STROKE with a Torqshift 6

I will confirm what matt posted 3-1/4" 8 point

Sure. It's the slippery stuff in the bottle...

No, he's talking about the 8 point stamped steel wheel bearing nut, typically 3/4" drive. I have one at work... cant tell you the size right now. I could "recollect" but I prefer to be accurate. Will post the size as soon as I can put my hands on it in the morning unless someone beats me to it.

Jim, we put oil in them too.

Oh cool! Does that rotor make that cool engine sound like when we attached playing cards to our bicycle frames with clothes pins to make a motor sound when we were kids?

The ONLY problem with that set up is that you will not be able to detect leaks between the cap and the degas bottle. I personally have never come across that however so I doubt it's an issue. I prefer to approach these like testing for an evap leak... do not disturb the cap. None the less, nice set up.

And pile a few Probe GT's on top and it's a good ol pep rally!

Yes indeedie Brad! The brown staining is a clear sign of rust. Sometimes it looks like actual corrosion and other times it looks like staining. I swear that rust can dissiolve into small enough particles to make it past the filters suspended in the fuel just as water can - or perhaps it's rusty water suspended in the fuel.

Another consideration here is what the organic crap is. If there is a lot of pine needles or evergreen of any type it tends to become quite acidic combined with the moisture that condenses on the core. That corrodes aluminum pretty quick. We have seen a lot of that in our Chrysler shop and very little on Fords however.

I think a lot of guys still have not run into this concern over the years. The thing about identifying which cylinder or bank is you need to look at it from different angles. I no longer like the balloon test as in situations like this one where the engine still runs, it may never produce enough gasses to show any movement in the balloon... let alone inflate one. That is why I prefer looking for bubbles in the secondary fuel filter housing. The proper way to identify the failed injector is to remove the glow plugs one at a time until no bubbles are observed while cranking. Personally, I think that if you can watch the power balance display and observe on injector drop out and the subsequently see additional injectors on the same bank drop out you know where you are headed. Regardless of which injector it is, the common recommendation is to replace all of the injectors on the bank as the combustion gasses commonly damage them and future repeat failures are likely to occur. The Hot-Line always recommends this as well as replacing the inlet check valve on the cylinder head of the affected bank. Also, when inspecting don't always assume the first injector that shows low on cylinder balance or the one setting a contribution code is the offender. I recently had a PSE&G truck brought to me that had injector #1 replaced and failed 4 times! FOUR times!!! I removed all of the injectors on bank one and discovered that #3 was the culprit causing the havoc. Of course all 4 were replaced and the truck has been fine ever since. Lastly, we need to inspect the failed injector and determine how the combustion gasses are entering the fuel rail through it and what caused it. The obvious failures are when the copper seal at the tip of the injector burns up and gets pounded . Once this occurs combustion cases quickly burn up the lower fuel rail o-ring and compression enters the fuel rail directly. The injector could have been loose for several reasons but regardless, the injector cup must be closely inspected for any damage and replaced as necessary or a repeat failure WILL OCCUR. The other scenario is when combustion gasses leak through the needle and seat indicating an internal failure of the injector on the fuel side. This is where investigating fuel quality, verifying fuel pressure and identifying and correcting issues is critical otherwise... repeat failures will occur. These failures are generally quite involved to diagnose and expensive to repair especially when we find rusted fuel tanks which in my experience is the most common root cause with neglect and clogged filters a close second.

It sounds to me as though we are jumping around here - you are a young tech - some things here don't support the idea that you are following a diagnostic routine. Don't be insulted as that is not my intention. You found some things wrong and that is good, take care of the obvious first. This is where following the Hard Start or No Start Diagnostic Procedures in the PCED methodically and properly guide you. You do know that with the KOEO the fuel pump cycles on and if the engine does not start the PCM will turn it off after 20 seconds. Home made fuel pressure gauge. I would ignore it and install the proper pressure/flow tester to the secondary fuel pressure housing and follow any subsequent fuel pressure tests as required. The maximum fuel pressure the HFCM will put out if I recall correctly is around 100 PSI therefore if you still get a reading that high with the system hoses all properly connected it indicates a problem, Even so, with 100 PSI the engine should run It sounds like this truck has multiple problems - take it one at a time. Once everything is addressed I, like Brad would look at base engine. If you can't get it to start and check crankcase pressure it might be wise to manually check compression, regardless of whether or not the relative compression test reveals anything. That will only compare the cylinders to each other but not tell you what the baseline compression is or the general health of the engine. Only the crankcase pressure and manual compression tests will do that.

That will do it but now which cylinder is it?

What is your fuel pressure?

Yeah I don't see you doing it without the tool. Sure you don't have it? If I am not mistaken the tool is not in any of the tool kits for any particular engine. It should be in the box Ford sent later that we were supposed to use for all of the little miscellaneous tools the sent us, the spring compressor being one of them. Don't have the box/kit number h available here at home... I will post it later from work. I know you said you don't have it but just in case it's just "lost" The box is TKIT-2004-Q3-F The tool is 303-1170

There is something seriously wrong with our culture

You lift the cab up and slip a new truck underneath. It's not a permanent fix but hey, it's a Chevy... what do you expect.

I actually enjoy the "big jobs" like engines and transmissions because they tend to feel more like I accomplished something. Brake jobs and services bore me to some extent but we know which jobs make us valuable... and which jobs make us money. They go hand-in-hand but there is a difference. I just finished repairing our shop's plow truck - broken case on a Torqshift. It was so corroded I had to use an air chisel to separate the transfer case and had to break the extension housing. Knowing that imagine how many bolts had to be heated to get the trans out! It was a fight, it was a project but it will feel really good to take the truck on a road test this morning!.

We began stocking Titan tanks today. Enough with this Ford crap. The consumers deserve better.

For those who doubt, here are three more pictures of the very same bus taken at different angles. I believe it to be very real and it's location is in Shubenacadie, Nova Scotia, Canada at the Whispering Winds campground.

That thing would be fun as hell to drive around! I wonder how well it corners? AND With only two seats you have to be REALLY special to ride in it.

I think I have only come across one or two VGT solenoids that were bad over the years. I too somehow obtained a "known good one" so ruling it out when diagnosing is fairly easy. That overshooting on the graph is similar to a sticking turbo.

Not everybody has your skills Matt - that just adds to your reputation. Did the core finally get returned or did you do that just for the fun of it?

Though suitable by definition, slacker is not the word I would have used.