Jim Warman

I tried looking in the online Motorsports catalog.... it isn't user friendly.

I still have a lot of questions to ask about this project but I want to line up a programmer and we can work towards our final requirements. This friends Mum passed away last month so things like this are moving slow right now. Debb (my loving bride) is having Crohns troubles piling up, too which doesn't help on my end.

I don't even like 80 as a high in July........

Anybody want to buy the album?

Well, as bad luck would have it, I have access to a wrecked 2013 Shelby. Oh, yes, it is a buyback from the insurance company. There is a brand new on sitting in the garage. But now we are considering a kit car for the powertrain from the donor car. Has anyone got a lead on somebody that can write a program that wont have the PCM looking for other modules on a network that no longer exists?

Leon, where did you find the reference to the oil pressure? FWIW, the 6.7 still has an inertia switch but most (if not all) gas engines now depend on a signal from the restraints control module to the fuel pump driver module as an "electronic" inertia switch. This electronic switch action can be reset by turning the key off and then on again. IIRC, GM using oil pressure as a control for the electric fuel pump was a Chevy Vega/Pontiac Astre feature - unsure about what other models use this strategy. Others would shut down the fuel pump if RPM signal was lost.

Isn't this a goofy winter? Our snow came two weeks early and usually the first snow doesn't "stick". We're in the tropics with only -15C~-20C Unfortunately, this thick blanket of snow is keeping the frost from getting into the ground and almost the entire oil patch is made out of snot.

Umm, I realize that Mike - but rolling the motor over a couple of revolutions doesn't only apply to 6.4s. We've spent three decades advising people about the importance of servicing timing belts where applicable - little wonder that some folks ask the question. We also need to remember that we are the mechanics and they aren't - partly because we know (or should) about the internal goings on with these engines.

Indeed... one apprentice discovered that a pebble had made its way into a cylinder. If this engine had been started, it could have gotten spendy. Additionally, in the case of todays long timing chains, rolling the engine over allows us to be sure that we didn't have slack in the wrong place.

Have we all forgotten the "Stop safely now" message?

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a BINGO - please do not disturb your cards.

We have no idea as to why this is an acceptable repair in thew eyes of the engineers. All of us are assuming that pinion bearing preload is already in spec. Yes, at first I was skeptical of this TSB. Having said that, most of us here can attest to the efficacy of "bullshit repairs". Tighten this - add a container of friction modifier for that - shim the other thing up... We can repair something with the idea that we don't ever want to see it again - or we can repair something on a SWAG and a gamble. In the last 40 something years, there are times where I have rolled the dice for customers on fixed incomes that honestly cannot afford a "proper" repair. My batting average has been better than I ever imagined. As you should have been able to tell, disabling emissions controls is NOT part of my strategy for "affordable" repairs.

+1. We used to have one tech that would ALMOST WITHOUT FAIL bend a push tube when reassembling a 6.0. Neither of us gave a rats ass about where the crank was positioned. He got to the point that he would ask yours truly to install his push tubes for him. I've have never (knock on wood) had a push tube bend on me during assembly on a 6.0 or a 6.4. But I am an anal old fuck and I try not to leave anything to chance. As for needing to ensure no pistons are at TDC when installing push tubes, I am going to opine that some of us are relying a bit too hard on air tools during the reassembly process. I will agree that tightening a rocker arm too fast MAY NOT allow enough time for the lifter to bleed down and cause a concern..... but to have it relate to only one or two cylinders is a tad hard to swallow. Let us remember that you will not have only one piston at TDC at any given time.

Nope - just needed to get it out of the way.

<Cautiously peaks around corner> You'd vote for a guy that believes underwear can be magic?

I have constant problems with printing pages from wiring diagrams. I reboot and print a page and sometimes have to reboot to print the next page. What is truly scarey is that so many Fords have the Word "Micro$oft" emblazoned on the dashboard. http://www-personal.umich.edu/~hoaglund/microsft.html

If you have 12 volts at both of the small terminals on the relay, it means that the module isn't grounding the circuit to turn the relay on. It is at this point that you desperately need to grasp the operation of these circuits. If the PCM is reading -40 when it isn't -40... what can I fucking say? You mention that landscapers are continually looking for hack type repairs. If people would stop doing "hack type repairs" - the demand for them would drop off. Seeing as you are moonlighting this job.... I could offer a lot of advice- none of it complimentary. This trade has a lot of problems... most of them self-inflicted. I have little patience for .... I'm going to stop there.

My limited experience with these products - while I have worked on many tuner equipped trucks, I have only reinstalled DPF delete software on one truck. This software installation process delivered three sets of warnings consisting of three warnings per set about the legality of the software and, by association, the hardware that went along with it. Let's, for a few moments, forget about the trucks and products and consider the people. Be it the purchaser, the installer, the retailer, the manufacturer.... (and the manufacturer is, not all that oddly, the least culpable step in the process - guns don't kill people - people do that but they sometimes use guns to do it).... nothing more or less than a lawbreaker, a liar, untrustworthy, disrespectful - need I go on? All of these people will bristle at being called by any one or more of these descriptors. "I'm honest", "Trust me...", "I'm a God fearing Christian..." - yet they will <ENTER> their way past all of the warnings, caveats and disclaimers on their way to installing their toys. While I will applaud any governing body that will find ways to enforce their own rules, I have to wonder about the people that choose to break the rules that most of us accept as "the way it is". And it is important to remember that "the way it is" in these cases is for the betterment of our existence and the existence of generations to come. Some of my peers look at me strange because I replaced the DPF on my sons truck.... they think I am odd because I did the RIGHT thing. How fucked up can that be? I recently came across a starter missing the "hard" bolt to get at. Someone asked me what "the big deal" was all about. I mentioned that the missing bolt was what separated the professional technician from the "hack". Once again - from the top. We are keepers of the public trust. We are expected to perform our duties - make our repairs, in compliance with accepted industry practices and within legal guidelines. If we cannot do that, we are unworthy of any trust or respect that we insist is our due.

In the DTC chart, the code P0796 is followed by a pair of asterisks indicating a footnote that reads "**May also be generated by some other non-electric transmission hardware system.". Now, I don't get to work on many 5R55s but memory tells me that one should be able to use the IDS/WDS/NGS to change the solenoid state and listen for the click (KOEO) or watch a change in trans pressure (KOER). Also bear in mind that, if you are commanding more than one solenoid at a time, the software will not allow you to command solenoids that would conflict with each other at the same time (caution - memory thing). This whole deal may result in a need to go to symptom driven diagnosis. I also recall there being many TSBs for various trans issues so running OASIS might be a wise thing to do early in the process.

For dropped pitman arms that are problematic (read that as prone to coming loose), I have a solution that appears to work. We have an old electric fry pan for heating ZF6 parts for installation. I pour in a suitable amount of straight coolant, turn the pan to full high and immerse the pitman arm into the coolant. Once the arm is up to temp (welding gloves required) I install the arm and torque it to spec quickly. If there is a lock washer, put it in the scrap steel bin where it belongs. Henry Yunick is quoted as saying "If you need a lock washer - it's too late".

Dang old fart memory....... That's $1619 Terry Tax in and about 80 for the gasket "kit". List is 2454 and 122 respectively.

$1698 and change including "Terry Tax". That's cost plus 10%.

Haven't actually looked.. this AM we'll see what my cost is on the Ford piece. Getting it done tonight is my choice since it is my half-ton that is trotting in and out of the bush with a tidy tank in the back while his is sitting in my driveway

So, with nearly 300,000 kms on his 08, my son was sorta trapped by mileage and circumstance - With pooched thermostats on his truck and too much equipment on a lease too small, everything got left idling as everything had to get moved out of the way every time something else had to get moved..... Sidebar..... with well over 6 inches of snow on the ground, the mud is well insulated. For the uninitiated, early snow usually means that frost isn't going to penetrate the ground well.... What you get resembles snot rather than "winter pavement". Anyway, I tried a Mexican manual regen but it just didn't work. No - the truck is not getting a DPF delete.

You guys are making snow shovelling look good, now. Still hoping for all the best for you folks.