BrunoWilimek

The tech next to me just finished putting a new horizontal oil cooler in one of these. He removed both to test and found only the horizontal one leaking. Not a very nice job, by the amount of grumbling and swearing coming from that bay. Seems like they made it as difficult as possible to work on without lifting the cab. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

014-00761 changes up to the new global number of 303-F021. I found it at the very bottom of page 273 in our 2007 Rotunda catalog.

Our dealer principal also owns the Honda store next door. One of the techs there just finished putting a new engine in a 2007 Civic with about 8000km on it. Seems the customer hit a porcupine, taking out the rad, but kept driving till she seized. Insurance claim of almost $10,000. I think the level of common sense in the population is steadily decreasing. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

Also, even with just the front driveshaft out, what are you really accomplishing anyhow, as the front axle/differential is still turning, and this is where most of the resistance in the front end comes from, not the transfer case or driveshaft. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

That is correct, Jim. Don't do it, Keith, or you'll burn up your viscous coupling. Also, if you need tires, replace all 4 as just changing the two worst worn ones is going to do the same thing to the viscous coupling. It will overheat and burn out. Keep your tires rotated regularily to even out wear.

Well Tony and Alex, thanks for the tip. I had the opportunity to try it out last week on an 03 with lots of k's on it. My "turbo" socket is 11/16 but worked as it is very close to 17mm. It has a 1" hex head. I don't have a stubby 1/2 drive ratchet and don't like borrowing tools, so I decided to try something. I took my custom made ICP wrench(cut in half to remove rear-mounted ICP sensors) and (yes I know, it sounds bad to put a 1 1/16" wrench on a 1" hex, but the wrench was cheap and technically I had already wrecked it when I cut in in half)grabbed my air chisel with the 18" long chisel that I had rattled the clamps off the turbo downpipe and y-pipe with, and it worked great. The wrench was the exact right length and by using the air chisel against it, I got that nasty bolt out. It came out tight at least halfway, as did the front one opposite it. That one I was unable to get my turbo socket on, due to clearance issues, so I hammered a 3/8" socket on it and had to heat the turbo housing several times to get it out. I may have to cut a 1" wrench down for the next time. I did not remove the front cab mount nuts on this one as the threads were too rusty to permit the nut to come off the first one I tried to take off. Yes, the turbo came out, but I still like the extra little bit of room to work that jacking up the cab provides. To each his own. For Tony and Alex, thanks again. I hope I am never too old to learn new tricks. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

I wear nitrile gloves as well. The ones the shop buys are from Atlas and are pretty flimsy. Some jobs I go through several sets. I used to be tough and would have my hands in contact with just about anything going. After many years of this, I finally got smart. One thing that got my attention was the statement made at Ford school by the instuctor. He said "gasoline gets absorbed directly into your body through the skin and will cause immediate and irreversible liver and kidney damage." If that isn't enough, the warning on motor oil states that "long term contact with used motor oil has been shown to cause skin cancer in lab rats." Also, I always wondered why my hands felt "funny" after washing them in parts cleaner. It felt as if the hair on them was standing straight up as if there was static electricity in them. This lasted several hours afterwards. To each his own, as long as you are aware of the dangers involved. I do not like wearing gloves, but prefer wearing them to the alternatives. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Yup, blue oval was quietly swept under a rug somewhere. I think it only lasted about 2 or 3 years. We had one pizza lunch out of the whole thing here in service. The big share of the loot went to the sales department. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/ford.gif

I hope you got paid for you time. The last chipped 7.3 that I found the chip loose causing the driveability concern, the customer asked to take it for a road test to see if it was fixed. That was several years ago and he never made it back to pay his bill. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

I have a 3/4 drive torque wrench that goes to 600 ft/lbs. It would take a couple of guys to pull it hard enough to make it click, however. A better choice might be a torque multiplier.

You said it! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

I was led to believe by our warranty clerk that TSB's only apply 3/60. We have had claims kicked back because of this. My understanding is that the warranty Nazi's are an outside company hired by Ford, likely to bring costs down. They are like an insurance company, deny, deny, deny, then if you argue long and hard enough, you will get paid. The people working there actually know nothing or at least very little about what we do at our end. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

There was probably a crack in the outer ring of the balancer. They crack real easy if hit or dropped. At least if they are the same as one I worked on a couple of years ago. A hairline crack would not be easily seen. Who knows what treatment the shaft got during shipping. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif

Ours just arrived today. If you haven't got yours yet, it will come soon.

When I was at Ford school one time a few years ago, the teacher had a novel way of describing the operating principle of the "brain box". He said all electronic "boxes" were sealed full of smoke. He said if you ever caused them to leak and "let the smoke out" they would never work again. Makes as much sense as calling them "brain boxes". /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

I never though of that. If there is a next time, I will. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Looks more like a dog to me. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif

I would start with more than a quick visual inspection of the fuel. Drain a good size sample into a clear glass bottle and put in a freezer for a couple of hours. Then, inspect it for uniformity and colour. It could have poor quality fuel that is gelling or have some water in it. The usual cause of excess soot(as mentioned by you) is excessive idling or low quality fuel. Since you mention the problem is worse cold, the second one could be an issue here. Also, does it have the latest calibration update? You have already replaced the injectors, but has the oil been changed at recommended intervals? How did the injectors look? Any signs of leakage past the copper washer? White smoke is usually unburnt fuel and you mention the smell as being fuel, so I keep coming back to a fuel issue. Very light blue smoke can sometimes be mistaken for white smoke, but with the other symptoms listed, I think we can rule that out. Try putting an additive in the fuel. PM22B or PM23B as appropriate. Another reason for white smoke is too low a combustion temperature(hence the white smoke from a diesel exhaust with poorly working glow plugs). Antifreeze can also show as a white smoke if being burnt in the exhaust, but the smell would be different, and you would have other symptoms such as disappearing coolant.

Be glad you don't. Our parts manager was out twice in the last week looking for 6.0 drain plugs to send back to Ford for warranty return. How much does a drain plug cost? How much does it cost to send them back and pay someone to take the time to examine it? Totally ludicrous! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

Looks very professional. I made a low buck 6.4 heat exchanger protector from a quadruple thick corrugated section, 3'X3' square cut from a shipping box. I took advantage of a fold in the square 1' from the top to allow it the cover the top of the heat exchanger unit. I cut a small rectangular hole in it to allow the hood latch to pass through it. I put a couple of shop rags on the hood latch before installing my shield. It is held in place with a bungee cord along the top 6". Takes up very little space as it is flat. I can store it behind my tool box. Not as pretty at the one pictured but it works for me.

I made a nifty press adapter for use when replacing the rear hub bearings on 02 and up Explorer's. I took an old rear rotor off one that was getting new rotors as well as bearings. I carefully knocked the centre out of it(just the flat area that rests on the hub)with a large hammer. I cleaned up the inside diameter of a few rough edges left from knocking the centre out with a burr in a die grinder. Now when pressing the hub centre out of the assembly, the adapter I made sits nicely against the flimsy backing plate with out doing any damage to it and the hub pushes out the centre through the hole I made in the rotor. The other guys in the shop use it as well. I store it in the box the new rotor came in, marked as a tool so it doesn't go out to the scrap pile. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I made an audible circuit tester out of an old backup alarm. I attached a 2 wire alligator clamp harness to it about 6 feet long. I don't know how many amps it draws, but it is good and loud and can be heard much better in a shop environment than my previous tool, which was made from an old seatbelt buzzer. The alligator clamp harness came from an old air mattress compressor which died, so my total cost was just the labour required to make it, as the backup alarm came from a propane service truck that they replaced the alarm every year. The only thing to remember, is the alarm is polarity sensitive. It only works one way. The alligator clamps I used have red covers on one and black on the other to avoid confusion.

Probably because it doesn't show up in the Rotunda catalog, or in Tool Inventory Management and Retrieval System binder. I ran into this more than once when doing an inventory of our shop tools. I had a tool in my hand, yet no listing for it in the binder. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Thanks, I will have to try that on the next one I get. I still like the trick of raising the front of the cab slightly, as it allows me to see and feel the bolt, and get my hands in there. It also gives more clearance to make lifting the turbo out/in a bit easier.