DamageINC

Dave here, to clarify this clusterfuck before Nick makes this place look like a stew of baffling morons... Truck came in with a Hot NO-Start, which I found was due to low cranking ICP when the EOT was hot. Only built 350psi.. No audible air leaks found, hotline recommends replaceing the STC fitting. So I did. Tested the truck, problem was still there. I took the liberty of yanking the dummy plug out of the left bank and sure enough, the lower O-ring was shot. Replaced, fixed the no-start condition. Noticed the rear main was leaking, so I replaced that as well after the no-start was fixed. Truck came back a week later (yesterady) with oil EVERYWHERE, and puddled up inside the bellhousing too. Couldn't see any signs of leakage from up top, so I pulled the trans assuming the new rear main was botched up. But, once the trans was out, I found the rear main to be dry. With the trans out I was able to see that it was the HPOP cover that was leaking. Took it all apart assuming I'd see some bonehead mistake like no RTV or a loose bolt of something but it turns out that everything looks cherry, I can't find anything wrong with the cover, the O-ring, the block, everything was tight & RTV'd... for whatever reason it was just leaking from about 3 inches from the rear of the engine on the bank 1 side. Replaced the HPOP cover seal again and I'm hoping that fixes it! (Holy thread Hijack) Dave

no different truck, 6.0l came in with a turbo problem i think, so he pulled the trans out to make it easier then upsold a rear main seal and it came back just pissing oil all over, ended up being the high pressure oil pump cover gasket which he also replaced.

pretty sure i should make it, its ona friday and i do have to work in the morning but its only in harvard so im down.belive it or not hes only using one of his two racks right now, but its for a comeback so hes not really in anybody elses way....yet.

Hey tony, its nick. just wanted to see what was going on seeing as this dts window is open constantly over here and i figured id say hi. Hey you gonna go to markys show on the 18?

I just replaced a FICM because the engine would intermittently lose cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7, with varying high/low ckt codes for the cylinders. The FICM's 2 smaller connectors are the injector harness connectors, and coincidentally, cylinders 1 4 6 and 7 are controlled via one connector, and 2 3 5 and 8 are controlled by the other connector. Internally, the FICM is "wired" the same way. Couldn't find any damage at all in the injector harness so it got a FICM, haven't had a problem since. (This was in an E-450 school bus FYI) Dave

The last two I've had were right in line with the pic of the one that Keith posted, however I've had one other one that was so far bowled out (much worse than the pic) that the VGT pin itself was ground down to the point to where it looked like it was about to snap off. That particular turbo failure resulted in blown head gaskets /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Dave

Oh my God they actually made a diesel forum on the FMC messageboards. Dave

I understand that some people use salt instead, and IIRC, salt water doesn't freeze at nearly the same temperature that unsalted water does. I could be waaaaaay wrong though, for some reason that just sticks out in my head. Dave

That too. Dave

It's actually pretty simple-a lot of turbos have been destroyed in the high-performance world because of similar concerns. The issue is that the drain tube, becuase of the retarded angle (almost totally flat) that it drains back into the engine on, will "back up" with oil from the turbo. It can't drain faster than it's being fed. This ultimately results in the compressor shaft seal blowing out. Alhough it's infrequent that these seals TOTALLY fail and cause severe oil consumption, they still have a tendency to never stop leaking once they've started. It doesn't usually creat enough of a leak to see oil in the exhaust (i.e. blue smoke) but what it will do is cause oil to collect and coke up in the turbine housing. The problem gets worse once the engine is shut off, as the residual oil isn't blown out of the exhaust and burnt, but it just sits on the components in the housing and cokes up from the heat and lack of airflow around it. The new tube is just a little larger diameter and is supposed to aid in making sure the oil properly returns to the engine and doesn't 'clog itself' in the drain tube. Ideally, any good turbo should have as much vertical drain back to the source as possible, and whatever horizontal parts may be necessary, should be VERY VERY short. Much shorter than the 6.0 design. Dave

This sounds like the ones I've been seeing lately with cracked unison rings... the ring gets stuck to the housing, and the VGT pin grinds up the slot in the unison ring, and this usually results in some small cracks on the inside of the unison ring. Dave

That may be somewhat the case, but I highly, HIGHLY doubt that he's seeing an 8mpg increase simply because he's being more cautious with throttle application and driving style. Dave

I actually just installed it on the truck I put the EGR coolers in. That's the same part number for sure... there's no message or bulletins available yet but Hotline gave me the PN and it's available as a part. It takes all of 2 minutes to install. Hopefully it'll keep these radiators from blowing out. (and EGR coolers for that matter) Dave

Ok, so I ended up having to put a DPF and a DOC in this truck because both EGR coolers were bad and flooded the exhaust with coolant. During the removal of the DPFP sensor mounting tube, the tube appears to have been cross-threaded in fromt he factory. Before I knew it, the entire bung had ripped completely out of the exhust pipe and the tube was frozen inside. Cost on the tube was $97!!! And of course we'd have to order one and the customer was expecting the vehicle this day. I found that a 1/4" male NPT air fitting (for your air-tools) works PERFECTLY in place of the stock tube. The hose will fit over the end nice and snug and the thread pitch is perfect. So in case you ever need to replace one of these things, a 1/4" air fitting works perfectly. Dave

Well, now that I've gotten started with this, I'm convinced that I'd rather work on a 6.0 with a hangover and no thumbs than have to continue working on 6.4's. What a fucking mess. I also love how the SLTS for the horizontal cooler is 5.6 hours, and the SLTS to replace the left exhaust manifold pays 5.7. It's the exact same job!! It really shouldn't have any effect on me though because I had to remove the vertical cooler and still need to bench test it, so I'll be getting the 7.8 or whatever it is for both coolers. Still, what an asskicker. I can only hope that it'll be like the 6.0 and we'll just "get used to it" in time. Dave

I actually just diag'd a horizontal cooler failure on-vehicle and am pretty confident that the vertical is fine. I just separated the vertical and horizontal coolers by removing the 2 nuts that join them (by the flex-joint). Then, stuck a small chisel between the 2 coolers to keep them seperated. Pressurized the cooling system to 18-19 psi and waited 15 munites - sure enough, I get coolant *pouring* out of the horizontal cooler when I came back to check on it. The vertical never dripped once in the 5 minutes I spent inspecting them from underneath. I am still going to bench test it, but have only ordered the horizontal cooler. (I also need to replace the DPF and DOC per hotline request due to a retarded amount of coolant in the exhaust now.) Dave

I've never considered unscrewing the lines from the HCU for fear that I'd run into a clusterfuck of pedal issues... but if you all are just taking the lines out and leaving everything else in place, then I'm definitely giving it a shot next time around. Unbolting, wrestling, and reinstalling the HCU bracket is definitely my least favorite part of the cab-off process. I can just screw 'em back in and pump the pedal and everything will be mint? Dave

I got bitten with this once too. I submitted a hotline request stating that I'd "heard about a powdery residue in some out-of-the-box oil coolers" and was curious if they'd heard of it too (because my HPOP and IPR were canned after the oil cooler was installed). They didn't even request a call-in, it was just a message saying something like "If the oil cooler has been replaced and now there is debris in the IPR screen, replace the HPOP and IPR, replace the oil cooler again, replace the filter screen beneath the cooler and blow out the passage between the HPOP and the resivoir." I imagine they know there's some kind of issue.. Dave

There's a nitrile glove in the oil pan intermittently clogging the pickup. Booya! Dave

Just a little side here, I just had another truck with the turbo in the same shape. P0404 and P1335, turbo comes out and apart and sure enough, the pin had widened out the slot another 1/8" or so and there was a good amount of material missing from the actuator pin. Dave

Yeah. Punching out at 5:00. Dave

I hate to be that snotty little shit in the back of the room who says otherwise, but we're a perfect example of being THE GO-TO DEALERSHIP in the area for all the big warranty and diesel jobs and we've been level 1 for years. We're a high-volume dealer that gets TONS of visiting owners becauase the other 3 dealerships in the area have given everyone so much shit that they come to us. I can't tell you how many customers we have that will drive past 2 other Ford dealers to come to us. It's a righteous pain in the ass, and we deal with WHINY customers too so we're always P05/P01-ing shit. The techs take it on the chin here so we can be level 1. Dave

Haha - a little update. I peeled the heads off yesterday to discover some VERY heavy cylinder wall scoring in 5 of the cylinders. Not sure exactly what the hell happened but either way, hotline's telling me to Short Block it. On the other hand, I've never seen such a visually obvious "path" of combustion gas into the cooling system as I have from the head gaskets (and cylinder heads and deck surface) on this vehicle. There's a good 1.5 inch span of the sealing surface between cylinders 1 and 3 where you can clearly see it's just charred black and totally blown through, right into the water jackets. Pretty cool. But either way - a short block now. How's that for a kick in the nuts!!!! Dave

...that cause huge-dollar repairs sometimes. I have a big ol' village truck in the shop now with a laundry list of smoking, lack of power, and coolant loss concerns. Driving it around and the ECT/EOT spread is over 20 segrees F and the turbo is obviously sticking. Basically, the turbo's out and I inspected it to find a small crack in the inside of the unison ring. But the more interesting part is that the little crank-pin in the center section that actually moves the unison ring around, has literally ground itself INTO the unison ring. It widened the unison ring groove by a good 1/8". Haven't come across that one before. Anyway... yeah, this tiny little piece of metal now is resulting in a monster repair job and an eager-to-get-their-truck-back customer. I kinda wish we had cooler things to tell customers when they learn that they'll be without a truck for a week. but nah, instead we get to be like "well this little guy here is cracked and as a result, we need to down this truck for a while." Anyway, back to work.. Dave

LOL Nice one Bedford. Dave