mchan68

Wow. Even these new ones are leaking rads? When the hell is Ford going to get their act together with these rads?

I second that one!!!

Nothing that solder and shrink wrap won't fix.

Is that the one that is getting a left head? I have no idea what happened to the one I put the head on, haven't heard or seen anything of it since the day it left Yup, that would be the one. In case you're wondering, I installed the left cylinder head as per the SM's instruction (per Ford's instruction) and it ran horribly. A relative compression test revealed cylinders #1, #2 and #3 completely dead. Removed engine front cover to recheck my valve timing. Engine is timed BANG ON. Shop foreman and I did a manual compression test and all six holes are DEAD EVEN. Re-timed both banks, and verified by myself along with another tech and the SM. Re-assembled and guess what? SAME FUCKING THING!!! Engine sure runs like it's running on three of six cylinders. Rev the engine up to about 2000 RPMs and it runs normally. WTF??? At KOEO CMP_INT #1_F, CMP_EXH #1_F, CMP_INT #2_F and CMP_EXH #2_F all indicate NO. Start the engine up and CMP_INT #1_F and CMP_EXH #2_F immediately switch from NO to YES right away, again pointing to valve timing being off. We now have a long block on order, that's coming from the U.S. I am NOT getting a very warm and fuzzy feeling for these engines REAL FAST.

I'm about to long block one here that's been an absolute gong show since it arrived.

Firing rings.

I just buttoned one up today that failed so bad it cracked the rear cover. If I recall correctly, it only got as high as 65psi cranking.

Believe it or not, it actually fit in there. You can actually unthread the oil filter cap almost completely just before it touches the underside of the engine compartment. So, I guess it's a permanent non-serviceable oil filter now, unless they want to re & re the engine with every oil change.

This topic reminds me of one such E-Series I went to look at, for another shop local to me to assist in diagnosis for a no-start concern. I vividly recalled noticing the absence of the oil filter supply and return tubes at the back of the engine the moment I stepped inside the vehicle with the doghouse cover off. Upon closer inspection was when I noticed that someone, somehow managed to swap an engine from an F-Series truck into this vehicle leaving the original oil filter and housing in place.

HAVE FUN!!! I vaguely recall having to change one on a 2.0L Escape awhile back. Lining up the cat pipe was the biggest PITA I encountered on that one. Yours, being a 1.6L will have three bolts securing the cat to the turbo. The biggest one of the three, is the one that tends to seize up inside the housing. The moment you attempt to remove it, be prepared for it to snap off inside the housing.

So I'm assuming you obviously didn't refill the crankcase with oil and start the engine up at this point? What did you end up doing? Pushing it out of the bay until you get your parts?

Well, my 2.7 is torn apart in one of my bays, now awaiting arrival of the non-reusable oil pan (which required LOTS of force to remove) coming from the U.S. Another job that was waiting for me to get to, a 2014 Edge water pump and phasers, originally quoted CP awhile back went AWA. The advisor wrote it up this week, informing me we have the vehicle until Friday. The RO had a parts slip stapled to it, so stupid me, thinking the parts were already ordered and have arrived, rushed to get it all apart. I went to the parts counter intending on picking up all the parts and low and behold NONE were ordered. WTF??? The advisor had the balls to tell me that "ordering the parts is the tech's responsibility". Then why in the fuck was I not asked to order the goddamn parts before the appointment was made to bring the friggin' car in?!!!! Soooo....... now I can't get to my other projects in line with both of my bays now disabled in a manner in which the vehicles tying them up can't be pushed out.

I get to get my hands dirty on a 2016 F-150 2.7L for the first time. Our tune-down department diag'd a cylinder #6 misfire, and found it consuming oil in that cylinder. It has been passed onto me, to replace the driver side cylinder head per our SM's instruction. Yeah me.

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I have a 2014 Lincoln MKZ originally in for a #2 service with only 27,000 kms. (16,800 miles) which needed, and sold a set of rear pads and rotors on. Customer immediately returned the next day complaining of the Parking Brake Malfunction indicator setting, as soon as he put the parking brake on. Before I go into this, I should point out that I've already replaced numerous sets of rear pads and rotors on these post-'12 body style Fusion/MKZ vehicles with EPB up until now without issue. And yes, before anyone asks, I did put this one into Service mode prior to the pad and rotor replace. Checked for and retrieved DTCs C2005:92 and C2007:92. Performed PPTs 'A' and 'E' of Workshop manual section 206-05. Performed Electric Parking Brake apply and release function several times with success every time. Even returns a PASS result when performing self-test on ABS module. But as soon as the parking brake is applied and released, the Parking Brake Malfunction indicator illuminates right away accompanied by the audible warning. Self-testing the ABS module immediately returns C2007:92 right away. So here's what I've done so far, without any further success at resolving the issue. I've replaced both the right rear parking brake actuator and right rear caliper (thus eliminating anything I "touched" during the pad and rotor replace). I have swapped the parking brake jumper harnesses (from 14A005 harness to parking brake control) left and right (identified as 2B254 in workshop manual but identified as part number DG9Z-14A411-A in parts catalogue) temporarily. Retested, and yet again C2007:92 resets right away upon releasing the parking brake using the driver control. I have load tested circuits CCB18 (YE-GY) and CCB19 (GN-BN) by supplying B+ and B- directly to those circuits at C135 (ABS module connector) and a halogen bulb connected to the right rear parking brake control connector. The bulb lights up nice and bright. I have swapped circuits CCB18 (YE-GY) and CCB19 (GN-BN) in C135 with CCB16 (WH-VT) and CCB17 (BU-GN), essentially switching the left and right parking brake + and - circuits at the module. Sure enough, doing so and repeating the steps mentioned above now returns C2008:92. So I figure there HAS TO be an issue with either the circuit to the right rear parking brake control or bad-out-box new caliper and/or parking brake actuator (what are the chances???) at this point. Next step, peel off strands on insulation to circuits CCB18 (YE-GY) and CCB19 (GN-BN) at C135 and splice in wires to overlay them directly to the right rear brake caliper, thus eliminating all the factory wiring in between. Here's how this goes down. With BOTH circuits overlayed, the problem is finally repaired successfully. With only ONE of the two circuits overlayed (and it doesn't matter which one), the problem is also repaired successfully. But with BOTH restored to factory, C2007:92 returns under the same condition mentioned above!!! So, what are the chances of BOTH those circuits having an issue (as the results of the above tests would indicate)??? The bigger question is how in the hell does just a simple routine rear pad and rotor replace, cause this issue? I've already eliminated the parts I've "touched" as mentioned above, by replacing with new, without success. The car itself, is overall relatively clean. I've peeled back the convolute as far as I can from the connector to the right rear brake control, and there's ZERO sign of corroded or green deathbed wiring anywhere that I can find. It should also be mentioned, there is ZERO issue with the parking brake function as well, just the goddamn Parking Brake Malfunction indicator and audible warning setting along with C2007:92 during parking brake release. HELP!!!!

Just thought I'd share this so no one else gets burned like I did. I have a 2014 F-350 6.7L in for an FMPP as well as other concerns, including passenger side low beam inoperative. Long story short, I diagnosed and replaced the BCM RETAIL ​due to the condition being customer induced by poorly routed auxiliary wiring installed inline with the factory headlights, causing a dead short on that circuit, in turn permanently frying that circuit internally. Upon completing the PMI, the power windows stopped working, as well as setting hard B131A:12 and B1D15:12 faults in the process. Now pulling my hair out trying to figure out if I did something wrong, and about ready to service replace the BCM I consulted Hot-Line. Here is the response:

EGR VP @ 1.14 KOEO is a little high isn't it? I should think it should be 0.85 to 0.95 if I remember correctly. That said, it definitely needs an EGR valve to start. The 85℅ VGT could be the turbo and/or the VGT solenoid. A quick and easy test would be to swap out a known good VGT to try.

Threads like this are the exact reason I flatly refuse to work on any vehicle that has had any part of the emission controls either removed with or without tuners installed, if it's for any concern requiring the IDS to be connected to the PCM. I had a truck last week in for a 16B24 that was recently purchased used, with a DOC/DPF/SCR and EGR delete installed. I simply declined to do the reflash citing those exact reasons. The customer was completely understanding.

THANK YOU!!! I don't know how in the hell I missed that.

I have an appointment coming this week for a 2016 F-450 reading incorrect outside temperature on the instrument cluster message display. This vehicle came in last week, with the outside temperature reading -35C. Obviously incorrect. I know the ambient temperature sensor is located on the underside of the passenger mirror, so I took a lighter to it, to see if the reading would change. It did not. Apparently, the reading has gone way off according to the customer so he'll be coming in this week to address it. I have searched Section 413-01 high and low, and I can't find anywhere where the message display obtains the outside temperature reading from, let alone how to diagnose and address this concern. If it matters, the vehicle is an XLT trim level (so low end message center display), 6.7L 4x4 CCLB.

By the looks of that bellhousing bolt pattern it appears this truck is equipped with the gasser 6.2L, not that it should matter. I'm pretty sure the 6R140 by itself is already heavy enough regardless if it's bolted up to a gasser or oil burner. What kind of tranny jack was used to support to weight of that tranny and transfer case as one?

1FT8W4DT1HEB12916. There, fixed it.

For those interested in searching by VIN, the VIN is 1FT8WDT1HEB12916.

This may be a dumb question, but how does the system detect the presence of any other substance, other than DEF the DEF tank? As I understand it, the NOx sensors' readings not reading what they should when DEF is injected, is the only method of detecting contamination is that correct?

How does one access that? Log into fmcdealer homepage.---------->Select Parts & Service tab. Navigate to Customer Satisfaction. ---------->Click on FMC360 under the Customer Assistance Resources menu. ----------->Click on FMC360 and the FMC360 page will appear with a list of open cases for your dealer. At the top of the page, one can select Search by Contact. Clicking on that link will open up another window that will allow you to search by the four choices, Search By VIN, Search By Name & Zip/Postal Code, Search By Phone Number and Search By Case Number. If you select Search By Case Number, simply enter the case number on the letter that is posted on the Facebook page and you will see all the fancy details of the interaction between the customer and FOMOCO.