mchan68

A clean work area or shop, is a sign of a shop going out of business were the words of wisdom from one of my ex-coworkers.

I wanna hear this puppy run!!!!

High pressure fuel system.

I'm sure we've all been through it at some point in time (myself most definitely included), so my words of wisdom to offer is NEW DOESN'T MEAN GOOD. For what it's worth, I had an F-250 come in on my doorstep that the owner had just had a four wheel brake job done recently (pads & rotors) himself. Complaint was a horrible vibration during braking. I didn't even need to take it out of the parking lot before noticing it myself. After removing the wheels and seeing the runout, I SUGGESTED new front hubs (feedback was in the steering wheel). He ended up replacing the hubs himself, only to have the same symptom present and returned shortly after. Long story short, a new set of Ford OEM rotors repaired the issue (runout measured 0.001" before re-installing wheels to verify repair). Just last week, anouther tech did a front brake pad and rotor replace on an older Ford Escape only to have the woman return screaming mad about a noise since the repair. The shop foreman played with it. Second set of rotors didn't repair it. New caliper and anchor plate didn't repair it. THIRD set of rotors repaired it!!!

Okay, I'm a little late to join the party, but dare I ask WHY the vehicle had a RETAIL long block and turbo done when it only has 14260 kms. on the clock? What year is it? Is it out of warranty by time, or did the owner do something to it to cause a non-warrantable failure of the turbo and long block? And yes, if the tone ring was missed during the install it would be a no-start. I've read about MANY guys doing it, so on the only one I long-blocked, I was very attentive about not forgetting to install it. And good find, by the way. I find it very odd that a mis-timed HPFP gear can possibly return PASS results on KOEO and KOER ​

Is that ICP DESIRED or ICP ACTUAL reading?

I have replaced two so far.

How about the lifters themselves? We all know fragile they are, especially so at that high of mileage too.

Are you sure it's not the main B+ connection to the starter that rotted and snapped off there perhaps? That would make more sense.

Well guys, how's your weekend going? Hopefully better than mine. I had just finished breakfast, and was on my way home this morning when suddendly I heard a louder than usual whining sound come from under my truck as I drove along. Next thing you know, the "Low Fuel Pressure" display comes up on my message center, to be followed by the "Reduced Engine Power" message and "Check Engine" light. It then began to feel like it was about to die on me so I pulled into a residential street to get it off to the main street as soon as safely possible. Now, I sit in wait for a tow to my shop with all of 6567 kms. on the clock now needing some unknown repair already, not even close to due for its first set of fuel filters!!!!

I've been dying to take a Loadstar 1600 or 1700 with a 345 for a joyride for the longest time now. I know it sounds really stupid. But I rode in a few school buses that were Cornbinders and vividly remember the "whine" sound to them, that the Ford or GM buses of that era didn't have. Ever since then, I've always wanted to take one for a b9ot. If I remember correctly, the shift pattern on those, had 1st gear to the left and forward, and 2nd gear would be the middle gate and forward, but you would never use first to start off.

Sorry I can't be of any help, but you've peaked my interest about the vehicle in question. Just curious, what engine is in this beast?

I thought the main purpose of 11B23 was to widen the parameters of the range in which the VCV could function without setting P0088 as Ford's way of saying "fuck you, we're not paying for an HPFP" to the customers. And ditto on Keith's sentiment regarding working on those engines.

I have seen a lot of 6.4s that set 00B7 to go along with an engine derate as well. And yeah, like mentioned above, a set of T-Stats has always successfully repaired mine. My biggest pet peeve doing them is finessing that stupid "ring" on top of that housing out. It comes out only one way and even then it's tight coming out. Not too sure what it's purpose is.

I have never, and will never mess with those bolts if I should ever go into one of these this deep again. I've only ever cam and liftered one block and it was a lot of work.

Just curious to know if anyone has ever installed one of these Titan tanks for any 2011 to current Crew Cab Short Box Super Duty trucks with the 6.7L diesel? Having to refuel every few days to fill up that puny 26 gallon tank is getting really old, really fast!!!! Apparently this tank is a 50 gallon capacity specifically intended for that exact cab and bed configuration. Those who have, or know anyone who has installed one of these tanks, what extra space does that extra capacity take up that the factory tank doesn't? Are there any issues with the tank sender during install? Are there any other issues I should be aware of, if I decide to pull the trigger on one of these? https://titanfueltanks.com/shop/ford-crew-cab-short-bed-super-series-2011-2012/

The main thing that matters, is the truck is FIXED, correct or am I missing something? For what it's worth, I have seen my share of plugged solid EBP tubes at the manifold myself, which is usually seen when the EBP psi PID delays going back to atmospheric pressure when you shut it down.

Perhaps I missed it, but did your flexplate eating truck have transmission issues at all? I've only ever ran into ONE such truck I recall with a broken flexplate that got stick handled to me years ago, after being misdiagnosed as a faulty starter (the starter would just free spin when the engine was cranked over with the key). Upon replacing the flexplate on my brief post-repair road test was when I noticed the transmission shifting much harsher and abruptly than I was used to seeing with these trucks, making me wonder if THAT was the root cause of failure. Mine was a 6.0 truck, not that it matters since the 6.4s use the same Torqshift transmissions as the 6.0s.

I thought the purpose of the EGR throttle plate was to restrict intake airflow during operating conditions under which EGR flow is requested or needed.

If it's setting P0401, I'd be checking to see if the EGR cooler is blocked up with carbon. I would even pull IAT #2 out and give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner too. We all know how they like to gum up, which affects IAT #2 readings, which if I'm not mistaken is definitely one of the inputs to the PCM that affects EGR system operation, and hence possibly setting your P0401.

Sorry I didn't reply sooner Keith. I have been pretty backed up with my own shit lately too, between struggling to figure out two 6.7 trucks that stubbornly and repeatedly set EGT 1_4 circuit and range DTCs to 1.6 Ecoturd engines overheating and consuming coolant. But yeah, it looks like you guys have it figured out. The '05 Excursions that use the '04 engines MUST use '04 engine parts, even though Microcat and HvBOM will still list '05 engine part numbers for that vehicle. They even have a 4C3Z (or in the case of Excursions 4C7Z???) PCM calibration strategies to go along with it. But back to your original concern, have tried removing the EGR throttle plate? I know it's a long shot but I vaguely recall two such trucks years ago experiencing similar symptoms to what you describe that I repaired successfully with replacing the throttle plate housing assembly. Although to be honest, I don't remember them setting P0069. In fact I think they did set EGR throttle position codes (P0487 if I recall correctly but don't quote me on it). One, I even watched the throttle plate moving to random positions when un commanded.

:popcorn: :popcorn:

YOU GO BRUNO!!!!

Incorrect EGR valve??? If this vehicle does in fact have an '04 engine in it, make sure you use an '03/'04 EGR valve, NOT an '05 and up one.

I'm glad I'm not the only one.