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Everything posted by mchan68
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p012f after a new cooler installed
mchan68 replied to blown99's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
Heater core???? -
Yeah, I found that odd too, that he would opt to do the head gaskets (which by itself is already an expensive repair) but NOT the oil cooler? Something doesn't right.
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6.0 econoline harness chaffe
mchan68 replied to tonybullitt's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
I would slam an IPR at it and retest. At least it's something quick and easy on an E-Series. Have you ever seen it default to 870psi and 30% duty cycle at idle accompanied by a rough idle? -
(p0625) generator field terminal circuit low
mchan68 replied to the_twig_187's topic in 6.7L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
I've changed one of those harnesses before Matt. This was on a one year old salter truck that everything was so badly corroded, the main B+ feed to the starter broke off. Both inner fenders, and even the steering box had to be removed if I recall correctly, just to properly route that harness. -
I got offered $10K to trade mine in on Saturday. With that amount for a trade, that would put me at $320 bi-weekly for payments for 6 years. I was paying $270 bi-weekly for my 6.0 that I bought used, for four years. How are you calculating MPGs? I hope you're not actually believing the MPG meter. I calculate it by zeroing the trip odometer at every fill up and diving the distance travelled by the amount of fuel dispensed on fill up to give me an actual figure.
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Every tank fill up is usually just less than 95 litres. I get about 500 kms out of each fill up. By my math, that equates to about 12 MPGs unless I'm doing something wrong.
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Matt, how's your new ride for MPGs compared to your old 6.0? I've been looking at a couple 6.7s and looking at some numbers. I can only manage 12 MPGs with my 2007 F-250 CCSB truck. Although I admit I do have a pretty heavy right foot. Just yesterday, at another dealer I was offered pretty decent $$$ to trade mine in. Makes me kind of wonder how much I can or should get selling it privately. I have about 210000 kms. (130000 miles) on mine.
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The most recent one I did, set a P207F and the engine was in idle only derate. Did the pinpoint test and it passed. Ran a KOER self-test and retrieved P2457. Did an EGR cooler and claimed it using SLTS with my comments that the TSB was not used due to no P0401 set. The claim got paid.
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6.0 econoline harness chaffe
mchan68 replied to tonybullitt's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
That air inlet and crankcase breather sure does crush quite a bit of wiring for both the transmission and engine harnesses. Also check the area above the power steering pump pulley. And yes, I stopped looking a long time ago. Even if the price of the harness is astronomical it's still cheaper than your time put into chasing it. -
YUP. I was invited to the Summit a while back. And got a nice $700 T4 to show for it too.
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2000 Corvette A/C inop and engine overheats in traffic
mchan68 replied to mchan68's topic in All Gasoline Engines
Okay, this one is back. The A/C and cooling fans were still functioning at this point. The customer claimed the gauge moves to 120*C in stop and go traffic. Well, on road testing this unit, the highest I was able to get the gauge to register to, was 100*C (212*F) which seems perfectly reasonable to me. It's only when it is stopped, and revved up to about 3500 RPMs in neutral is when I get the gauge to register up to about 110*C, but the fans are already on at this point, so releasing the throttle moves the temp gauge back down to approaching 90*C. Surmising it might possibly be a gauge reading issue (as opposed to overheating issue), I call an ECT with no guarantee of a "fix". Replace the sensor, and running the vehicle outside at 3500 RPMs now does put the gauge up to 110*C and a little bit above, with coolant bubbling in the degas bottle. What gives? It gets better. Put the A/C on, and now it quits working again, with the HVAC displaying -8*C for outside temperature. And the kicker is, the cooling fans are still running (which they weren't before when it came in with the original concern). -
I wonder what the policy is with new vehicle purchases for employees in most dealerships. The reason I ask is because I priced out both an XLT and Lariat trucks online a while ago, and the Lariat truck works out to about $6000 more than the XLT truck at MSRP. From what little I heard, it's usually about $500 above dead cost isn't it? One thing is for damn sure. I am not getting into an F-150. They are priced way high. I might as well get into an F-250 6.7 for what the F-150 trucks are priced at.
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Those rims look nice on your new ride Matt. Is your new truck an XLT or Lariat? What are you going to do with your 18s?
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I have one right now, a '12 with 96000 kms. on the clock setting P207F by itself. This one already had an NOx sensor replaced at 69000 kms. 14E03 has already been done. Vehicle came in, in engine idle only de-rate mode. Dosing test passed. Reset the SCR system and cleared P207F. Then re-ran a KOER self-test just for s's and g's. It set a P2457 on-demand (but no P0401 in memory). Just wondering if any of you have ever repaired this successfully with an EGR cooler replacement, that didn't set either P0401 or P2457 in memory like this one?
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2000 Corvette A/C inop and engine overheats in traffic
mchan68 replied to mchan68's topic in All Gasoline Engines
Funny you mention that. I did manage to get codes to display in the odometer window by pressing two buttons (don't remember which two). One of the codes displayed was U1096 if I remember correctly. But disconnecting and reconnecting the battery restored A/C and cooling fan function. Driving it around a little bit, and I was unable to get the symptoms to reappear. -
Low & High Pressure Oil Pressure
mchan68 replied to Keith Browning's topic in 6.0L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
From my experience, it seems to be the late build pumps that ball falls out of. With what you have, at this point it wouldn't hurt to air test it at operating temperature. At the very least, air back feeding into the oil filter housing would be the basis to condemn the pump. On a couple of the early style pumps I've replaced, there is a bolt there in lieu of the ball bearing so the replacement part is updated. It wouldn't hurt to check the standpipes and dummy plugs as well for good measure, even though they seem to fail only on the '05 and up style engines. -
Let me know if you can change the programmable parameter for the tire size when you do the swap. On my truck, I have a set of Lariat Outlaw five spoke rims with the LT275/65R20 tires which I switch out to my steel rims with snow tires and LT275/70R18 tires for the winter. I also change the parameters during the swap, just for the sake of perfection. $800 is DIRT cheap if it's for four rims with tires on them, and in that condition too. Just one new rim alone will set you back more than that.
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I just had a guy driving an '08 F-550 onto my doorstep complaining of a "SERIOUS lack of power". It set a P2263 KOER as well. Pulled the hood open, and hot side CAC hose was ruptured.
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DITTO on that!!! I used to read about guys having to go through that a lot, until I bought my own. It sure is inconvenient having to shut the engine off at the drive-thru. Yes, the power is what really attracts me to the 6.7.
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Notice in the picture Keith posted (I can't quote posts for whatever damn reason), The transmission connected to those driveshafts is a manual transmission. Why in the hell can't they make that an option for North American spec models too? Ditto for the small Transit. Are we perceived as the laziest culture around the globe, or what's the reason? It's getting ridiculous that people are getting into the habit of texting while driving. God forbid that another task be required for driving. I have to admit, I am pretty impressed by the size and seeming versatility of this vehicle, after now seeing a few in person. Only leaves me wondering if there aren't going to be any customers wanting a V8 though.
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That's a damn nice looking truck Matt. You're making me jealous and tempted to pull the trigger on a '15 truck myself. Not sure what colour I would go with though. Either Tuxedo Black or Vermillion Red (no price difference between the two colours). If I were to do this though, I guess I wouldn't be planning on EGR/oil cooler, FICM, injector replace on my 6.0 anymore. One thing would be for damn sure though. If I were to pull the trigger on a 6.7, I sure as hell will miss the hell out of my 6.0 when it goes. NOTHING beats the sound of a good running 6.0
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So you pulled the trigger on a new truck Matt?
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My next question would be what the engine RPMs would be at highway cruising speeds with the 3.55s? I would be happy as pig or flies in shit to see 15 to 20 MPGs. As it stands right now, my 2007 with 20s and 3.73s will only see 12 to 13 MPGs either at highway or city driving. Mind you, I do have a bit of a lead foot I'll admit. But if I were to pull the trigger on a '15 I guess my question is answered on which gear I will be choosing, since I will likely never be towing with it. I will most definitely be changing my oil every 5000 kms. (3000 miles) like I have with all my vehicles though.
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NEGATIVE on that Matt. The rims you describe are EXACTLY the rims I want. I was able to build it on an XLT truck, BUT...... equipping it with those 20" rims also prevents you from having hill descent and some other options in that value package. I tried building one with a 3.55 (only because of the 20s). Not sure if 3.55s would be better or the 3.73s. How bad would 3.73s be for fuel economy over the 3.55s?
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I just priced out a '15 F-250 the way I'd like it equipped, so yeah I know what you mean Matt. I'm blown away at the price difference between a Lariat and a moderately loaded XLT. A lariat the way I would want it, is only about $3Gs South of a Platinum, but I'm not crazy about the tailgates on the Platinums.