mchan68

Not as scary as what you'll see when you pull the oil pan off a 2.7/3.0 V6. The oil pump is driven by a thin RUBBER cogged belt (like a timing belt) submerged in engine oil!!! I believe I saw an SSM about an updated replacement chain drive setup somewhere not too long ago.

Would you care to elaborate? I just clicked on that link and couldn't find that tool. All I could find on their website is drill guide kits for exhaust manifolds for the common engines needing them but no hub pullers. Changing out hub and bearing assemblies on Explorers is on my hate list of jobs and if such a tool exists to make this job tolerable, it's worth the investment. Sorry for the thread derail.

As you can see by the pictures, unfortunately NO, neither the teeth nor the holes are visible on a fully assembled engine. But the pictures should clarify the meaning of the different applications for this engine. As you can also see, the particular engine in the illustration uses the gasket with two holes and two teeth.

For those of you interested, there are three different head gasket part numbers for these engines, without any quick and easy way of identifying the correct one for the application being worked on. That said, the part numbers for the three head gaskets are as follows: BB3Z-6051-A For piston protrusion of 0.430-0.520 mm (0.0169-0.0204 in) 1.1 (one hole /one tooth) BB3Z-6051-B For piston protrusion of 0.521-0.570 mm (0.0205-0.02244 in) 1.15 mm (two holes /two teeth) BB3Z-6051-C For piston protrusion of 0.571-0.620 mm (0.02248-0.02440 in) 1.2 mm (three holes /three teeth)

https://himechanics.com/products/wand?fbclid=IwAR3XF_bMzay0-x5RHUgTZnYkwxevuLZydB7tnmzdesMnFiSDpQ0MyESvG8I Is anyone familiar with the tool in the link above? If so, is this really a tool worth the investment, or is it BS?

Finally got the truck back in to complete the repair. The top picture, is the old cooler assembly disassembled, and how the bypass valve was lodged in between housing. The bottom pic is a side by side comparison of old and new assembly. Note the different bypass actuator on the replacement assembly.

Look what I have the pleasure of dealing with.....a 2020 in on the hook. Primary cooling system empty. I've put over 30 litres in and attempted a pressure test. With the oil dipstick removed, I have coolant exiting the dipstick tube. Anyone seen anything remotely similar to this? Unit has only 420 kms (261 miles) on the clock.

Wouldn't be the first time this type of situation happened.

We were on Reynolds when I started at this dealership back in 2005. I knew that like the back of my hand. Then we switched to ADP/CDK Drive due to reasons of cost. And now we've switched to PBS likely for the same reason. For those of you who ever finds themselves having the pleasure of having to work with this system, let me tell you, it's nothing like ADP or Reynolds. This last week has been an absolute shit show with everyone suddenly deaf and blind at the same time, struggling to try and learn how to work this new system.

Was the no-start hot a pre-existing concern before the previous tech did the work, or after? If after, I would recheck the tops of the injectors for nicked o-rings on the injectors. I can appreciate on an E-Series it may be difficult to finesse the oil rail on and off when doing injectors, making it all the more likely to nick those O-rings. Sounds like an air test would be beneficial to pinpoint the source as well.

Were the dummy rail plugs replaced with the updated ones too, when you replaced the standpipes?

I got one here now that I just replaced the EGR cooler 8K kms. (5K miles) ago back in July, now blowing coolant out the degas bottle the moment the engine is started before it even reaches 170F. Repeated relative compression tests consistently return with cylinder #3 low. Steve and LeRoy, is this some kind of pattern failure trend happening here? I can smell diesel fumes from the bottle too. Anyone ever had a repeat EGR cooler failure, or is it looking like it's going toward engine replacement time?

Which dealership management software are you guys running, ADP/CDK Drive, Reynolds or PBS? Which do you guys like best? As of this morning, we have made the switch from ADP/CDK Drive to PBS. What a shit show!

We still have the 6.7 adapters with ours, never used and collecting dust. Funny you should mention.... I'm just building up a 5.0 on a '17 Mustang using the exact same method you described right now.

That sure is a lot of money to spend on a twenty model year old vehicle. Ditto on our two post engine stand. With most 6.0/6.4 trucks being old news, and the 6.7 trucks being relatively solid, I suspect there are a lot of dealers with these two post stands (ours included) sitting in the tool rooms collecting dust.

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-16561-carli-adjustable-track-bar-17-19-ford-f-250f-350-superduty-4x4.aspx

Adjustable track bar.

If God forbid, I'm ever into needing to pull an engine out of one of these rat turds, you better believe it's coming out through the front! I'm in the middle of replacing a front crank seal on one right now, and it's the first time I've discovered how much simpler removing the front clip is. Fuck dealing with seized cross member bolt bullshit. Leave that noise for the front end guys when they replace steering racks.

Hey, hey, hey. That's getting a little drastic. The 6.0 E-Series is one vehicle I do NOT miss working on.

This is on my own truck, a 2016 F-250 XLT for those of you not in the know. It has happened on a very random basis, the most recently of which was this last Sunday while parked in my driveway. I woke up Sunday morning and noticed outside both of my front windows completely down! Needless to say, I was a little alarmed about it and quickly put the windows up. There's no issues with their operation that I'm aware of. The last time this happened, was also while parked on my driveway some time in March after it has snowed the night before of course! Can anybody shine any light on what might have caused this? Better question is how to prevent it?

Gee, I don't know. From subframe bolts seizing up into the bodies so bad that a 3/4" drive breaker bar and impact socket won't budge loose, to piss poor water drainage management that leads to every engine component fastener heads rusting so bad that you just about round every one of them when attempting to crack them loose, I can't think of much else. I do dig the rear pad and rotor slap with every service though.

...... and it's back now, 100 kms (62 miles) later with the MIL back on. This time, it flagged P2457. After a quick boo at the MAF and EGRTC PIDs with EGRBPV commanded ON and OFF per the PPT with no change but getting vacuum at the solenoid, I have a new EGR on order. The interesting thing here is, you can't get the bypass valve by itself like you are instructed to replace for the ones under 18E02. Apparently you have to replace the whole cooler, valve and bypass as a whole assembly. Of course, it's on back order unavailable.

Funny you should say that. I feel exactly the same way! I blame my wife's absolute love for this vehicle on one of our customers. This was a vehicle that was purchased new from our a few years back that shortly after would keep setting off cam phaser and timing codes but no noticeable symptoms other than the engine light. Long story short, I ended up being instructed to install a new timing set supplied from Ford Motor Company directly (not parts ordered through the normal parts channel). After, I was instructed by my service manager to drive the vehicle for the weekend to ensure everything was good before we release the vehicle back to the customer. My wife became intrigued by the power, so I let her take it for a spin. That was it! From that day forward, she told she wanted one! I must admit, after being employed in this industry for quite a few years, I rarely get excited about vehicles anymore. But I do agree that road noise on these are noticeably noisy. This is even after ditching the OEM garbage Hankook tires that come on these from new and replaced with Michelins. (I now have the Hankooks sitting in my garage for sale to help recoup some of the cost of getting the Michelins). I'm contemplating installing a set of Bilstein struts and shocks to further smoothen the ride some. Our sales manager had a 2020 Explorer ST as his first demo of the all new 2020 model. Curious, I made the arrangement to let my wife take it for a spin. She tells me the power increase of the ST is definitely noticeable over that of the Sport model it replaced. But looking under the hood of these 2020s along with the whole underpinnings really leaves me shaking my head. That's not to mention the astronomical price increase for these vehicles. Since there were no new 2019s left over that I could locate anywhere, the next best thing I could do was snatch one of our sales demo with 16000 kms (10K miles). Since then, she's been happy. But interestingly enough, she mentioned she misses shifting gears of her '10 Focus from time to time. The increase in fuel expense is of no surprise of course.

I a 2019 truck in with P0000. The only complaint is a MIL light on, no other symptoms. No PPT or anything in OASIS comes up. Never been worked on. And definitely looks as bone stock as can be. Mileage is low. Passes KOER. Since I couldn't find anything, I just did a reflash and punted it.

Well, this is a rare milestone for me. My wife's previous ride, a 2010 Focus 5 speed has started developing lower body panel rust through that had progressed past the point of no return. It was otherwise a very solid little car for her that gave us no problems whatsoever. Now enter her new ride, a black 2019 Explorer Sport 3.5 Eco that was one of our sales demo. Obviously, this is a huge upgrade for her. I welcome all thoughts, opinions and feedback.