Alex Bruene

The only people that make money on class action suits are the lawyers.

Is that the 345ci V8? I had a friend in high school that was restoring a Scout. We spent an entire semester rebuilding that S.O.B. On edit: Never mind... I just read the tag on the video.

I don't expire until 2015. I was wondering how that would effect me-if I had to pay in to the "College", and lose what I paid to renew my license last year? There are too many grey areas. But what to you expect from a government that tried to sneak this in on us?

He charges that much because he can. There are not many people around that can do what he does.

No. This guy is good. Very good. Expensive, though. Very expensive. We have 2 guys we use... One that we use for very straight forward bolts with with relatively easy access ($85 for the service call and the first bolt, and $15 for each additional bolt). Then this guy I'm talking about, who will remove a bolt from a 6.4 turbo with the turbo and cab in place, he can take broken 6.4 manifold bolts out with the manifold still installed, and perform many, many other miracles (at $250 for the service call, plus $90 per hour he's there).

I have no problems with it. He does a good job. He has some plastic plugs he puts in the exhaust manifold port to keep filings out. Cleans everything up well. It's only a 6mm bolt that torques down to... shit, I don't remember... about 8 lb/ft? We've had no issues. 2 of the trucks he's helicoiled we see on a regular basis... No leaks.

We have a guy we call in to remove them. Sometimes he gets them out... Sometimes he drills them out and puts in a helicoil.

That makes one of us!

I think it's pretty common. A lot of people hate working on 6.0 E-Series... So corner cutting and butchery happens.

The audible buzz test works well to identify weak injectors when they're cold. Run a buzz test, and listen for the weak injectors. You can also use a short-out box (if you have one)... Or hook your gage tester up to the EOT wiring and dial up the resistance to simulate the warm engine.

Fucking assessors have me in their sights right now. I can't change a light bulb without jumping through hoops.

What I want to know is, where did the change of mind come from? When we went to school, they said it was vital to not reuse the clamps...

I never did. Just the bracket. If you check the SLTS, the time for both coolers has dropped from 8.3 to 3.8.

You only needed to remove the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on... I always changed the clamps. I probably will continue to. I have seen reused clamps break on the horizontal cooler.

No.

Nevermind... I found a partially broken wire under the drivers side sill plate. Thanks for nothing!

Good day, Gentlemen... and I use that term with the utmost respect! I'm just wondering if any of you fine individuals have run in to this before. I have a 6.7 equipped F-550 out on the road that will periodically lose HS-CAN communication. The truck will miraculously regain communication during my inspection, and I've never been able to figure out what I did to make it regain communication. I've tried multiple times to duplicate the loss of communication-but never with any success. The truck will drive for a week or 2, then get towed back in with the same symptoms. Any experience you guys might have with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

I've done dozens of plugged EGR coolers that did not have the P2457 code on KOER.

I like working on them. Simply because everything pays so well. Around here, there are hundreds of 6.0 E-Series running around, so we've figured out a better way to do just about everything-making them quite profitable.

Once you've done a few, you'll find they're pretty easy.

We charge 1 hour for the oil and filter change, plus 0.4 for chassis lubrication on medium duty. Compared to 0.8 for oil and filter, plus 0.2 for chassis lubrication on 250-550 trucks.

Pop the valve cover, push them out from the inside. Sorry.

Here's my plan on the situation... From what I understand, anything that ends in 3 or 4 cents, gets rounded up to the nickle... Anything that ends in 1 or 2 cents gets rounded down... So, it it ends in 1 or 2, pay cash... If it ends in 3 or 4, use debit (because you'll be charged the exact amount). Over the course of our lives, we stand to save tens of dollars!

I used to think 6.4s were easier than 6.7s, but I've done so many 6.7s this winter that I now find the most time consuming part of the whole job is draining the coolant!

I did something similar about 2 years ago. I was insured with Dominion Canada, but my rates sky-rocketed for no apparent reason. I called to ask why, and they said the rates were going up across the board. Made some calls. Switched to TD insurance for a 50% decrease, and my insurance has gone down even more since. It pays to shop around.