Alex Bruene

I've only ever seen leaks from the outer o-ring.

Gotta love the power of free speech!

Holy Crap! Where have you been the past 20 years??? F6SZ-13B218-AA

Never tried. I just get the factory add-on kit. Simple to install and works well.

It appears to have customer access... according to the wiring diagram. There should be 4 blunt cut wires around the drivers side of the dash that you would wire up to the brake controller. I haven't physically looked at a truck, mind you.

I ran that VIN for gits and shiggles... It appears the VIN has been "cancelled"...

Also, make sure after having the oil rails drained that you give it a good ol' hard-core flogging to make sure you've got all the air out of the HP oil system.

There was a conversation on INFORD that was recently removed by the brass, but I think it was an important topic... I hear time and time again about people having their pay deducted because of denied claims, come-backs, broken items, accidents and such, and it seems like a lot of people are either bullied in to it, or don't know what their rights are... In Ontario, the Employment Standards Act states that (other than by court order) no deductions other than taxes and union dues can be made without written authorization by the employee. It also goes on to say that even with written authorization, it is against the act to deduct from somebody's pay due to faulty work, rejected claims, damage to company equipment and lost or missing money or property (as long as you are not the ONLY person to have access to it). Perhaps everybody should look into what the laws are in your jurisdictions.

The only thing on the back of the EGR cooler is the nut for the EBP tube. I removed if from below with a 1/4" air ratchet, then noticed that you only need to back it off a turn or two. I did remove the PCM to make a bit more room...

We've charged many a tow company for Torq-Shift overhauls. We always make note when one gets towed in without axle or driveshaft removal AND call the towing company before we even move the vehicle to inform them that it was towed the way it was. Most companies seem to try and make the drivers pay for the damage.

I did my first one of these today. Why does the WSM instruct you to remove the upper intake? I had no problem getting the cooler out and back in with the intake in place.

With the rapid increase of popularity in electric cars, I often wonder if our infrastructure can handle it all.

I'd never dare lend this out! Way too useful. We do get other shops send vehicles to us to remove the wheels and reinstall them so they can do work.

Here is the wheel puller in use... I've been meaning to post this for the past few years...

Saw quite a few with Velvac mirrors when the truck first came out with this issue. Thankfully most body builders have caught on!

Get a room!

Check for evidence of coolant in the EBP tube. The last cooler failure I had would fire coolant out of that tube like a water fountain! If it's using coolant, first make sure it has no external leaks... Rad hoses, rad, yada, yada, yada... Make sure the coolant isn't getting into the oil... Normally horizontal coolers are the ones that fail, as they take the brunt of the heat. I've never had a leaking vertical cooler.

Speak for yourself! I've had many a post deleted. I've also been threatened to have my access to the message board revoked. Jim on the other hand........

Okay... So, it wasn't too much different than the single belt version... I normally remove the fan shroud, both CAC ducts, intake elbow, loosen the fan from the water-pump, unbolt the stator and lift up the fan and stator at the same time and pull the fan/clutch assembly out through the top as soon as the stator is high enough... on this one, the second belt kept me from being able to lift the stator high enough, so I reached in with a 1/4" air ratchet and unbolted the clutch from the fan and removed the clutch while leaving the fan inside the stator... Total hands on time was just over an hour. The most difficult part of the job (as ususal) is getting the fan lined up on the water pump threads.

It's funny that I'm reading this post right now. I'm right about to start replacing a fan clutch on a shuttle bus... Dual alts and dual A/C compressors. I've never thought that the extra components would get in the way of my doing this my usual way... But, I don't remember if I've ever done one with dual alternators... I'll post back when I'm done...

I've done this method and broken a bolt. Good luck getting access to said bolt with the turbo AND transmission in place.

Really? I've got 30 jugs in my garage that I'll let go for $200 then.

Don't go posting shit like this on INFORD... *** *** A1090 LINCOLN HEIGHTS FORD OTTAWA , ON posted Jun 18, 2012 8:38AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I do these with just taking cab up 4" without disconecting anything else. Let turbo cool over night and the bolts will come out fine. Loosen exhaust outlet pipe but you don't have to remove. flex pipe comes out through top. Here's to looking forward to replacing right side inlet pipes for 1.5!

I see this is a very old thread, as I don't normally venture in to the parts forum... But, why aftermarket? Is there an issue with getting Premium Gold from a Ford dealership?

I used to be at work for 12 to 13 hours a day... No more. Now, I get to work at 6:30 am, and leave at 3:30 pm, 5 days a week and no weekends. And, once you take the tax man out of the equation, the take home pay isn't that much less.