Alex Bruene

AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGOOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSSSSS!

When I have that concern, I like to run the buzz test over, and over, and over, and over (you know where I'm going) again. Normally you will hear the buzz get louder and louder as the injectors warm up, and after about a dozen or so buzz tests the engine will start. Then I go through the fun of trying to sell a set of injectors at the ridiculous price they are right now.

Today, I had a claim sent back by the warranty gods. I had to replace a DPF a few weeks ago because the EGT13 broke off in the bung when I tried to remove it. So, it turns out that my repair was 726% above the national average. I had documented everything I did, and why, as well as attaching all my hotline contact information. What gives?

We do that with all diesel engine warranty repairs, unless we've taken over the retail servicing of the vehicle. If you didn't buy it from us, and/or don't service/maintain with us, we won't do the warranty.

We HAVE to do them. If we hand in a warranty repair order without one, it will be handed right back.

Oh, and now we have that company's fleet too!

I had an F-250 last week that came in for a second opinion. An indi quoted 8 injectors for a rough running issue. I reflashed it. It was fixed.

Not so long ago, I had a 2000 F550 7.3L that would not start at times. It came from an indi with a new PCM, IDM, HPOP, IPR, ICP, glow plug relay and lift pump for an intermittent no-start. I guess since there were no parts left to throw at it (other than batteries) they gave up. It took me the better part of 5 minutes to find the modules were not turning on because the voltage was dropping down to 8v when cranking... 2 batteries later, it was all good! It was summer, and by listening to the cranking speed you wouldn't have suspected batteries, but they were both pooched.

I believe I was reading about this stuff at "The Donkey House" some time ago... I think that (for lack of a better word) goof Bill Hewitt promotes it with his "Top End Wallet Flush".

Other than a rash (3 consecutive to be exact) of 6.4 EGT sensors and one inlet pipe... nothing but safety inspection, maintenance and 7.3L oil pan gravy has come through my bays this week.

Does that mean you got all hammered, stood in front of a mirror and let yourself have it?

Nope... UFC fights trump SNL for me.

W on't D o S hit!

It did work in the past. I believe the issue was that it doesn't work well on a high-speed network. I could be wrong though, I haven't even laid eyes on a WDS in years, let alone used one.

Yippee!

Dwayne, I get calls all the time put through from the parts department. I have actually gone so far to say to a parts customer, "My friend, that kind of information is not free". The parts manager complained to the service manager, and the service manager came out and shook my hand for doing that.

I don't tell people over the phone anything. In fact, I will give (some select people) inaccurate information if anything. Your knowledge is your knowledge. Why give it away for free? Especially to people who are essentially nothing more than your competition. JMHO. As for "The Monkey House"... I was flipping through their forums for the first time in several months the other day... I was suprised that nothing has changed. I started to fill in a reply to a thread, but quickly deleted it and logged off.

Perhaps NOT using the PPT, and using your brain and knowledge of the system might help. I rarely (if ever) use a PPT for high pressure oil diagnosis. Hot or cold, a high pressure oil leak is a leak. The engine may start when it's cold, but that doesn't mean the leak isn't there, it just means the oil is thick enough to overcome the leak.

I quit smoking (cigarettes) almost 7 years ago now. I just woke up one morning hacking up some shit from my lungs and decided that was it... and it was. Super easy for me to do. I wish everybody else could stop as easily as I did.

Don't forget, a leaking high-pressure oil pump to cover d-ring can result in that kind of pressure as well.

I've done 4 sets of heads and 2 complete engines. I don't mind doing either. The head bolts are not that bad. I simply use a 3/4" drive ratchet with a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and a 15mm socket... They're tight, but quite simple to do without fenders in the way. As for detaching yourself from the outcome... I am quite blessed to work for a company that understands warranty times are difficult, at best... And will cover any time lost on major diesel engine warranty repairs. So, it makes detaching yourself from the outcome and focusing on the job at hand much easier.

It takes less than 20 minutes to remove the left engine mount... why go through all that effort?

Although I have found a few ways to remove the right side valve cover without removing the left engine mount, I still prefer to remove the mount when it comes to replacing the injectors. If I'm only doing a d-ring I won't remove the mount.

I'm pretty sure I've heard that somewhere as well. From what I am aware, once you've been paid for something, they can't take it back... In other words, debits are against the employment standards act in Ontario.

With all the access times, I think I normally get in the area of 10-12 hours.