Alex Bruene

I've seen this happen quite a few times... not only reading the OASIS history, but worse, one of my co-workers does/did it all the time. Have a no-start hot, go straight to the STC fitting, replace it, charge the 10.6... then when it doesn't start, call the shop foreman over, get an additional line added, replace the d-rings and get paid to remove the valve covers a second time. I've never done it, but I was shocked to see how often it actually does happen. That is why I think we have the big list of operations now.

We have a wheel puller. It is basically a frame with a massive threaded rod with a cup on the end. Hook three chains between the wheel and the frame, and crank the screw against the hub with a 1" gun untill it pops.

Tony, I see that this post dates back to January, so I'm wondering what the outcome may have been?

I think more places are coming to terms with the way a diesel tech is paid. Just recently, dealers in our area are advertising in the papers at around $35 per hour for diesel techs... which I think is great... diesel techs at my dealer are getting 37.5% of the door rate... as opposed to around 26% for (the highest paid) car technicians. Just ask anyone who has tried to fill a vacant diesel tech position, and I'm sure they'll agree that we just aren't in abundance... especially good ones!

Imagine Jim and Dwayne working at the same dealer... yikes! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

I love GOLD!

Okay... I'm just trying to figure out how a plugged EDOC will cause this... since the exhaust flows from the RHS turbo inlet pipe, into the EDOC then down to the EBP sensor and horizontal EGR cooler. Wouldn't a restricted EDOC prevent exhaust gasses from getting down to the EBP, rather than cause it to overheat? To me, it would seem a stuck EGR valve is a more plausible cause of this condition... but I could be overthinking it...

We have two of these EBP sensor meltin beasts in the shop today with the same issue. One of them however is blowing coolant out of the degas bottle. I imagine the horizontal cooler is cooked due to it's proximity to the left exhaust manifold... yea...

We have 4 techs in the commercial shop, all of us are on flat-rape. We all make the same hourly rate (which is substantially higher than the car shop rate). We have a guarantee on 6.0 and 6.4 warranty work. We have 2 advisors, who are also our dispatchers, so they do their best to make sure that everyones hours are in check, and not just one tech is doing all the chit while others are doing the gravy. All E/F250 and up come to our shop, gasoline or diesel. The car shop does nothing to anything bigger than an E/F150. Our commercial door rate is also only $80/hr, so you can probably imagine that we have tonnes and tonnes of retail work.

I imagine this is just another one of those things that we common folk aren't going to be able to participate in...

Jim, if you go to the WSM section for turbo-inlet pipe removal, there is a nice little picture with all the fastners, gaskets and part numbers right there. That's how I've always ordered fastners, and I've always got the right ones and the right quantity.

Ahhh, yes... it does say "discard"... but what does "discard" actually mean?? To me, it means "throw away"... but to the parts guy that came up to me today asking for all the bolts and gaskets the manual says to "discard", it means something else... They got the phucking leaking inlet pipe back, but I guess that wasn't good enough, they want the bolts and gaskets too... PHUCK YOU WARRANTY NAZIs... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/fouet3.gif ahhh, that feels better...

I couldn't agree more. Once again, Ford has failed to notice that we actually have to bring the vehicles inside, get the parts, do the job, park the vehicle and fill out the RO... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

Same here... management and warranty clerks will fight tooth and nail to make sure we get paid.

Just like our beloved 6.0l, turbo inlet pipe leaks on 6.4l engines will also set boost codes... but if it's doing it on a self test, you should have a sufficient enough leak to notice in your bay.

I find when they go, it almost seems like there is a dead stroke in the pump. The last one I recall doing, would reach about 1000 psi (dead-headed), and would drop to about 200 psi, and keep up that pattern.

Can't your dealer add a new employee... perhaps a fake name like... ummm, I don't know... Howie Felterbocks, or something like that... give the access to you... and bring the site back to life?

Well, I hope you know what you're getting yourself into...

I don't think you wimped out... you did it the way the truck was designed to be worked on...

Really? The majority of ICP issues I find on early build engines turn out to be the pump.

Agreed!

Or have a look at TSB 07-04-11. It will give you characteristics to help you determine if it is regenerating without having to hook up your IDS.

You can say that again...

I do!!! I need something to sober me up... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Check your DPF regeneration PID. If it is regenerating (active), it's normal.