Alex Bruene

I wear nitrile gloves all day at work. I go through a box a week. I wear impact gloves whenever I'm air hammering and usually when using my gun.

I'm not holding back, Larry. I posted exactly what I did. In a nut shell, we were able to replace the HPFP cover gasket, all the fuel injectors, both HP fuel rails and a few other things in a day and a half with the cab on. Working on this thing with the cab on was not nearly as difficult as it has been made out to be.

No, you're right Keith. I didn't mean it in the sense that I don't want people (Ford) to know how I did it... just perhaps they don't need to know how long it took. It worked very well. The turbo is back in now, bolted up and pipes torqued... Torquing was a bit difficult, but I managed nonetheless. I posted the procedure just as I did it, and feel that even if cab removal were possible at my dealer, I would still do it this way.

I had a really difficult time finding the cause of really trashy ICP a while back. At about 2500 rpm (or so), I would get random misfires on bank 2 only. The ICP was fluctuating (IIRC) about 0.6v. The injectors had been replaced prior to my getting the job. Hotline had me replace all 4 injectors again on bank 2, and the banjo bolt. Same thing still happened. Turns out the guy that replaced the injectors, thinks it's too much work to remove the check valve from the oil rail and separate it from the stand pipe when removing the manifold, and cracked the check valve. New check valve on the left side, and all was well.

I wasn't quite sure about how to get that bolt either... turns out the FSE we have with us this week knew about it. Our shop is equipped with only inground 2 post hoists (they can lift a dump truck, but not a cab), so cab removal is not an option at this time. And don't worry, he is with International, not Ford... so that means the procedure used isn't going to fall into the wrong hands... hopefully.

Didn't you hear? They just got one of them there brand new video cassette playing machines at the video store...

10mm flex socket on an 18" extension. You can get it in between the EDOC and the LHS turbo inlet pipe from underneath. There is enough room for you to put your hand behind the pipes to feel the bolt and line up the socket. Don't remove the bracket from the head.

Believe it or not, I just removed a turbo today with the cab on. When I first saw one of the guys in my shop do it, it took him days, and it looked awful... well, I removed mine in less than 3 hours... Assuming the air duct and CAC tubes and turbo oil lines, heat-shield, etc. are off... Remove the fuel cooler and bracket, remove the EBP tube, unbolt the EDOC pipe from the horizontal EGR cooler and RHS turbo inlet pipe and the 10mm bolt from the EDOC to cylinder head mounting bracket just so the EDOC pipe is loose and able to move around. Unbolt the turbo down-pipe from the DOC and remove the down-pipe to turbo clamp and position the down-pipe aside so you can get at the inlet pipe bolts. The two lower inside bolts require the use of a half-moon wrench to remove, but the rest were removed by wrench. Remove the two hold-down bolts, and viola! Keeping in mind that I had to remove the turbo to get at the HPFP because I have an ITEC service rep. at the dealer to help diag a problem truck, I have yet to install the turbo, and don't exactly know how difficult it will be to torque back up... but it does not "look" difficult... To make a long story short, it was really not that difficult at all to remove... and I owe somebody an appology for calling him a super-hero, but that's a whole different story.

I know it's a month old... and I hope it's fixed by now, but this afternoon I had a tow-in with the exact same concerns. There is a wiring retainer about a foot infront of the batteries that had worn a little hole into the wiring in the circuit from the 40A fuse that powers the BJB. A little green death in there made it that only 4 volts was getting to the PCM power relay.

I recall doing an 07S57 on an ambulance this past winter. I broke the connector tab off trying to remove it (damn dual alternators)... when we called Ford about the broken connector, they said if it was broken when it arrived, it's the customers responsibility. Now, a little off topic... As it was broken by us, they sent us a connector. It took 3 weeks to arrive, and they would not authorize us to use the connectors we have in stock, seeing it is a safety recall, and they did not know if it was an "approved" connector... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

One of the body-builers we use has a bad habit of putting one of the U-bolts for the box about half an inch in front of the HFCM. You have to remove the HFCM to change the filter. We've bitched at them time and time again about it, but they keep doing it.

And, don't forget, gasoline will burn white. Check for the presence of gasoline by taking a match to a SMALL sample of fuel to see if it will burn. I've seen several a tech. chase his tail for similar concerns because it was running on gasoline. Also, what is the ICP doing during the concern? And, did you torque the new injectors to the proper specification?

I've already done 4 right side pipes... no left yet. I must agree with you to make sure you have a good 10mm shallow chrome socket around. I've found a few short-cuts that have made the job substantially easier than the shop manual says... One of the guys at work was actually able to do it without removing the transmission, but I think I was faster with removing the transmission than he was without.

Yeah... they have senders in each tank, and a transfer module in between. The fuel guage reads off the left tank, and the transfer module will transfer fuel from the right tank to the left tank as the level in the left tank goes down. In a properly working system, the fuel levels in both tanks should be within a couple of inches of one another.

Sorry for not updating... I think that I may have "accidentally" stumbled upon the issue. The guy that was originally working on this issue was off one day when the truck came back in... I found that the fuel guage didn't appear to be reading right, so after calling the customer, we discovered that the fuel guage was having intermittent issues (which would have been really good info. from the start)... after putting a new sender in the left tank, it's all been fine. I imagine that the left tank was running out of fuel when the sender was not working, then when the sender started to work, it would transfer fuel back into the left tank, thus making it difficult to figure out it was actually run out of fuel.

Ditto... stubby ratchet and a pry-bar... works everytime.

You only have to remove the intake on early build engines with the crossover tube in the intake manifold. I see lots of those brackets broken, I just weld them back together and slam it back in. I find both the Es and Fs to be quite easy, so I don't really have a preference.

Just because they are doing it, doesn't mean it's safe.

I don't recall that ever being a message... but it probably should have been, seeing how common it was, and still is...

I can't imagine taking 19.5" tires any faster than that...

Did you take it for a good hard romp to make sure that you've blown all the air out of the high pressure system?

I do the same thing Greg does. I was first told to do that by a hotline engineer to try and blow the crap out.

I'd be willing to bet that it is sticking injectors. We had a few really high mileage 7.3s with the same symptoms that were going to auction a few weeks ago. These trucks would not start at all if the temperature was near freezing. We ran a few litres of ATF in the oil for a few hours, then changed the oil... then they would start at well below freezing with no ether or block-heater... I don't know if the ATF would cause any damage, but like I said, they went to auction running fine...

Why don't you key it on, and jump the starter relay underhood and drive it in? The only VT that I can recall with a similar issue had an open in one of the fuse holders on top of the batteries.

If I recall, you shouldn't power an IPR with 12VDC for more than 30 seconds at a time. Mike, the drivers side valve cover will clear without removing the breather box from the top.