Fredsvt

Ooh, I'll have to tell our customer. Just sent the link for that ebay one. He just put a full set of Alliant injectors in it and a bunch of other stuff. Keith, Glad your guy is that good. Ours is good, but when he has a parts brain fart, oh boy. Today it took him over an hour to figure out what front rotors were on a 2003 4x4 Ranger. Go figure. It's amazing the price of that thing, the turbo isn't that much more than that. Jeez.

Thanks Bruce!

Hi I'm looking for the part number for the wastegate actuator that bolts to the turbo. (NOT the EBV) The pressure nipple on this one has rusted off. Not sure if our regular Ford parts guy is getting the right thing or not. He can't come up with a picture of it so we can be sure. He's telling us the part is $500.00.

Which motor? I4 or V6? The V6s don't normally leak air from the intake, if it was that bad, you'd be seeing coolant pouring out of it, and coolant mixing with the oil. GM had many wiring issues with V6 versions that had the very long monitor O2 wiring. If it's a 60 degree V6 that's had intake gaskets done check the wiring that wraps around the back of the motor and make sure it's properly secured. It can droop down and rest at or on the rear bank manifold.

It works well with my new i5 windows 7 desktop. It's a little slower on my dual core laptop, but not too bad. I do like the embedded links that open windows within the procedure you're doing, if one isn't familiar with everything in a particular job. Our indie shop has access via fordinstallersupport.com, our local Ford store sponsors us.

Looks like it has to get far enough out of the way to get the p/s pump bracket off. The p/s pump and compressor are on the left side. The LS has zero room with the V6, the V8 must make it even worse. While he's got all that off, he should replace the big dollar heater control valve since it's a real pita to get to otherwise. Is he planning on replacing all the crummy plastic coolant fittings? Talk about break downs.

When you had the motor out you should have pulled the rear main seal carrier to see if the galley plugs by the cam have come out. You could be pumping, but its all going right back in the pan. I agree about there's more to the story than just a "no start".

Does the '96 still have rear spring hangers and shackles left? Been rust buckets from hell lately too, 2002 F350 plow truck 6.8, the dump body is nearly gone, you can see the tires! The guy left the salter full of salt from last March to January this year. It left after birth everywhere it went, in 20 lb piles. The starter rust jacked right off the motor, along with a thousand other things.

How about a 2006 Ranger, 3.0 with cyl 4 and 5 with poor sealing exhaust valves? Putting ONE head on it, per fleet management company following bulletin to the letter. Glad I'm hourly, as it's a big 5 hours they're paying. And it's rusty. I can see this 105k truck coming back in a month or two with right bank problems.

Chrysler? You've got to be kidding. If you like brakes every 10k, melting plastic oil filter/cooler housings and intakes, among a whole bunch of noises, rattles, bangs and nasty suspension sounds. Several customers where I work bought them, and can't stand them due to all the niggling issues.

awd/ecoboost pushes it to and over. I don't see many around here either. It's definitely different that all other suv/crossovers.

Price. For anyone without a Ford plan, over 40 large for a nicely set up one, well, is up there.

I was surprised at the fact that a Ford radiator for a 2006 Exploder (given a 2008, had to change cooler fittings) was LESS both cost AND list than offshore Chinese/Taiwanese/HK/Indonesian rads from 1-800 Radiator. List price IIRC was $321. On top of that, the rad was in stock at Ford, the one from the radiator place wasn't and they couldn't tell when, as they can't keep them in stock for that application.

Yes, and those lines aren't called lines. GM calls those feed lines a "nut kit" for whatever reason.

Dwayne I had a customer with a 2002 7.3 who fell victim to the same line of BS. He put their "bypass filter" kit, which gets rid of the large filter for two smaller ones. He followed their recommendations of using their "diesel rated" 5w30 and 50,000 MILE oil changes, and their anal-ysis. Always came back great. So he changed the filters every 15,000 miles, at their recommendation and added oil as needed. At 80k, he said it wasn't sounding right, a guy in our shop took a sample and sent it to another lab. They CALLED him and said the engine needs to be shut down NOW with how bad the wear metals were. It threw several rods and broke the crank at 82k. I won't even use that crap in my lawnmower.

I also ran into a similar problem on a gen1 7.3, wicked romping and stalling, with IPR and ICP jumping all over, with a stall. Bad MLP sensor caused it. I plugged in another, with it in the N position, and it stopped doing it. The PCM "thought" it was in gear when it wasn't.

Does your dealership parts department sell the parts over the counter to retail customers (non-shop or fleet) for less than what they'd sell them on a customer pay job? I've noticed a few things being in an independent shop, they sell to us (Ford store) at 20% under the list price. They sell to OTC customers at the SAME price. I haven't seen a retail RO from a Ford store to know if they go over list or at list. I see several of our local Napa stores that sell to us ~50% under list, depending on the part, but they will sell to a OTC customer at about 30% under their suggested list price. Kinda burns the shops they sell to, when you get a customer bitching on parts prices. Just like how Motorcraft oils and filters at WalMart or Sams Club cost way under even what they sell to an independent. When I worked at the limo company, we used to get those old dot matrix printed bills, and in the blacked out area, we could see that the fleet paid 10% over the dealer's cost (in the blackout area) on the part. Btw, if you see the quality (NOT) of many of the garden variety AutoZoo, CarQueef, or Crapa parts, be glad you don't have to install them. Having to send stuff back, or do stuff over and over gets OLD real fast.

I was thinking of that. (PCM) The customer recently had a battery go bad, and he was jumping it often. Hope he didn't jump it backwards.

Hi Thanks for responding. I caught a typo in my first post, it's P0171 P0174, lean b1 and b2, and then P2196 and P2198 (both banks O2 stuck rich). How can this thing store both lean trim codes, but have stuck rich O2 codes at the same time? The fuel pressure mirrors desired on scan data, and indicates about 2 psi higher. I put in a new valve, as the old one had a pounded out seat. Damn expensive little valve, with that heating element. The car runs very well, other than the MIL coming on, with the 4 codes stored, and each time it stores them, baro is always at 142hz to 145hz. I have noticed, if its able to hold proper baro, for as short as it does, it runs the same, but it doesn't ping. It pings rather loudly when baro drops off. I have watched calculated load, and it maxes out at 82% just prior to shifting into 2nd at WOT.

Hi all, Hope someone can help me. This Taurus 3.0 (vin U) 303,600 miles, has an issue where it won't properly learn and store the correct baro reading. It runs well, however, it will skew baro readings to 142 hz or lower, where 156 hz is normal for our area. Recently, it's had a Ford reman MAF put in, (disconnected airbox and major dirt contamination) a B1S1 for dead heater, and a B2S2 for dead heater. Codes are P0171 P0174 AND P2196, P2197 (both S1 stuck rich) When it sets these codes trims are way out, as high as 56% both banks + ST and 25%+ LT. When at proper 156hz fuel trims are 0 to -1.0 both banks ST and +4 B1 and +7% B2 LT. I ran the baro learn procedure in PTS, but, it'll only do it stationary while power braking as I can't drive at greater than 50% throttle long enough without going way to fast. Once I have done the learn either in bay or in the lot, and drive it, it skews the reading in less than a 1/4 mile back to 142hz. Am I missing a step to make this thing retain the correct learned value? The last thing I'm trying is to let it completely cool down, as it won't learn a new value unless at operating temp. TIA

Apparently the guy at the warranty company does know. He worked at a Ford store for 25 years prior to becoming a cubicle dweller. He knew where it is, and what it does, and that the rig is unusable without it. But the way the contract is written, they won't cover it. We don't call, the customer who owns the rig does, only after they were arseholes to him, did my boss speak to a stupidvisor. Either way, the customer is going through their written appeal process.

Here's a question regarding aftermarket warranties and how they're worded Customer has 2002 F53 Motorhome 6.8 V10. Feels vibration on way back from Florida. We check, find parking brake assembly on back of trans has failed. Fluid leaking out of drum. Disassembly reveales forward bearing has blown, sending debris into trans. In customer's warranty paperwork it covers ALL internally lubricated transmission components. This thing won't move without parking brake assembly on back of trans. And it has its own internal lube. They denied coverage and coverage for trans should it fail from contamination. Collateral damage isn't covered. However, if it were 4wd, they'd cover the xfer case and trans should it fail, which bolts on in the exact same manner as the parking brake assembly. He's written letters now and gotten his lawyer involved.

She's not an asshole, she's a see you next tuesday. Stupid cow, I'd have started the truck and held it on the governor the whole time she had her CO2 spewing from her pie hole. Don't forget, those who drive Priui are "morally superior" to the rest of us, they want to shove it down everyone else's throat how their saving the world anonymously. Even if their car has a half life. They should put her in the little boat in the Geico commercial, behind the hamster saying "Row, Row, Row".

What I've been told, always check ABS/Stability for any codes related to possible false or excessive activation of the system. As the stability (if equipped) will chop engine power as a last resort if brake activation can't do it. Also, check all the grounds at the backs of the cylinder heads, not just for tightness/cleanliness but also to make sure there are no issues with the wires near where they crimp to the ring terminals.

Here's TimeSert's kits for Fords: http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplugford.html They have a number to call to make sure you'd get the right kit.