Fredsvt

Rain isn't all bad, except..... When you get more than 10" in 12 hours and quite a bit of it ends up in your basement. Even with 2 pumps moving 150,000 gallons a day. No fun... I finally bought a snow blower, and now it'll never snow again... My luck. No fire pit thingys here, my town has ruled ALL outdoor burning is illegal, subject to a $1000 fine.

If it's going into forced limited power, it's a TAC truck, not all GM trucks are drive by wire, some still use a cable. There are issues with harness ends (terminal fretting) at the TAC module and the throttle body itself. Some throttle actuators, depending on the size of the motor itself, have gear stripping/binding issues. They have basically the same logic when it comes to TAC issues as Ford, if APP, TPS1 or TPS2 don't agree properly, it chops power. If it also has GM's stability control, any ABS issues can possibly create an issue. Since you have a P0420, is the cat blocked, a somewhat common occurrence on these trucks, it sure would feel like FLP, as they just don't move. A factory cat (Y pipe) for that truck may be a no-go as many all the way up to 2005 are already discontinued. "Old GM" dont'cha know? Does he get a "reduced engine power" message or something to that effect on the dic?

Hi Keith, Tell me about it, with money being tight, that's why I keep ogling the standby generators. They sure look pretty! I was ready with bailing buckets and mops during the hurricane, so much water came in. If the power went out then, it would have been really bad. There wasn't a portable generator to be had anywhere around here after the hurricane went through. We lucked out with the brief switch to rain/wind that stripped about 80% of the leaves off and snow out of the trees Saturday afternoon. The next door neighbor lost a couple of oaks before that happened. With how much liquid fell, if it were cold enough, I bet it would have been as bad as the blizzard last year. Are you on JCP&L?

Hi Keith Are you considering what I really need to get? A natural gas powered standby automatic generator. I have to get one to do the whole house. I priced them out at $3500 for a 16kw unit, then get it installed. With the water that I have to keep pumping out of the sumps, any power failure could cost me big dollars as Allstate won't cover ANY water damage unless the house burns from the water that gets in. I really have to get better homeowner's coverage. Luckily for here, it snowed like crazy Saturday from 11:30am to about 2, got about 4 inches, then the wind really kicked up, started pouring rain, which took all the stuff off the trees, then it snowed some more, we only got about 3" of extremely wet snow. When the hurricane hit, I was one of the few in Marlboro who had power. Most of the town was without power for nearly 10 days.

Is what I read a long time ago true, that in the 6.0 in the Ford application, the cooler takes out roughly 700 degrees of EGT? It's no wonder the coolant doesn't completely boil out of the thing, even when under 16psi. Maybe that's why the gold elc coolant crusts up so much in the 6.0? It almost seems as if they should have put coolant to it with hoses/pipes as large as the rad hoses, rather than through such small diameter hoses.

It's not the that the recirculated exhaust is hot/cool. The ~300 degree temps don't help with power production due to it raising IAT.. It's the fact that the gasses are inert. Which effectively reduces peak combustion temps.

Premium Gold is essentially G-05. Zerex sells it, by the name G-05. http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/zerexg05.pdf

Sounds like it's out of time. Usually it should code a P0341, a kind of generic Honda code for cam/crank correlation. Since this is a sohc vtec, it's only got one sprocket to line up. The dohc 2.0 is chain drive in '04. When he put the belt on, it's real easy to roll the crankshaft, and once the belt is on the crank mark on the oil pump is obscured by the belt. Putting the stupid "self" adjusting tensioner on the 1.7 is a pita as the instructions have to be followed to a "t". If not, when the motor turns, the cam and crank are out of time. All the older D series Honda motors had manual, locking spring loaded tensioners. He can pull the valve cover, on the 1.7 it's a bitch with all the coils, brackets and junk, the upper timing cover and roll the motor till the white mark lines up with the pointer on the lower cover. Obviously "up" should be up, and the two marks on the pulley should be parallel up with the top of the plastic inner timing cover, and NOT the two arrows on the inner cover itself. As an aside, did he run the valves (stone cold) while the cover was off the first time? All Hondas have adjustable valves. Only other thing I can think of, if the CMP was somehow damaged, and now doesn't make a signal, although it's "there" electrically, the PCM may not allow it to start, but would start if it's disconnected, as morris mentioned in default.

The new best one: "EVER SINCE YOU... put those 4 new tires on my (POS Suzuki Daewoo) car they keep getting nails in them. I think you should give me my money back. My old tires NEVER had a problem". Um, yeah, right. Those 2 front tires with the belts so badly shifted, I wouldn't leave the parking lot. And the CU Next Tuesday only complained they shook at speeds over 70 mph.

I can't ever call a Ford or other manufacturers store a "stealership", I worked for one a long time ago, and have way too good relationships with a Ford and Honda store nearby. On another note... I've long since lost the ability to sugar coat or tell half truths to customers. It probably makes me look like an asshole to some of them, but if you want my honest opinion, you're gonna get it. Like, for example, today. A 2000 Corolla, 90k miles, comes in, check for oil leak, "ever since you", and the oil light came on several times on hard stops. I get to it, maybe 1/2 quart total in engine including filter. When customer comes to get it, "what do you mean it burns oil, you just did.." (the 1.8 is notorious for bad rings with long OCI) I told him as matter of factly, but not nasty, as I could, "your wife, who you hand-me-downed the car to you, did oil changes when she had other issues. That was about every 30k." "Recently, you just started changing the oil, 3 times in the last year, and every time it's been very low" I had his records ready to show him. He was not happy. There have been so many 7.3 and 6.0 guys that have come thru, with programmers, K & Dirt filters and other mods, that expect warranty after blowing stuff up, they are shocked when I've told them don't expect much when you go.

Last truck I saw with that spamsoil bypass garbage on it was a 2002 7.3, the customer fully fell into their sales pitch. Use their oil, their lab and their filters. IIRC it had only one oil drain in 50k. Let's just say the engine expired at 70k, as a direct result. Just prior, to the failure, with it knocking (not a rod), we sent out a sample to Blackstone at the same time we sent a sample to spamsoil. The oil company's sample report came back, great! Keep going. The blackstone report came back horrible. Metal of all kinds. It broke the crank not too long after, and took out the bottom of the block.

Yes, it does turn oil leakage into that lovely rust resistant paste. The oil pan has NO rust on it at all. If you think underneath looks nasty, dirt wise, it looks even better under the hood. That track sand will get everywhere. Last winter, the oil cooler header orings failed and it was pouring oil. Needed a Tyvek suit to work on it. This truck's been all over the northeast and as far as Chicago from what I've been told. I probably did post it here before. It's sad, but quite impressive it keeps going considering the abuse. And they keep finding new ways to add to the body damage. You should hear the comments parts drivers, other customers and any visitor to the shop makes when they see it the first time. There's not a single body panel that doesn't have damage. And the interior rates right up there with the outside, and the flies..... Yuck.

Buddy's the closest, it's got 435,660 miles on it. The body looked like this by the time it had 150k on it. NJ really needs to do roadside and bring back safety inspections, she's got it registered over 10k, so "self-inspect" for her. Trans has 325,000 on it, as the first grenaded a converter at 110k. I can't tell you the number of front end parts, especially when one goes out to the Poconos, and loses a wheel bearing and drives it back at 75 mph!?!? Keith posted a great pic a while back, this truck looked the same. The poor beast has been a true beast of burden for this woman. I'd guess it's got an easy 100k just from grooming the track. The hitch ball she's got in the receiver is nearly cut in half from the chains hanging on it. The tri-axle is a goose neck. As an aside, she's bought the following to go with it: 2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins, been through 3 engines, now heading for its fourth. Thrown 1 rod and broke one crank and took out the block on another, the current is drinking oil at a considerable rate, again. This engine had no oil pressure indicated when she drove it off the lot after engine 2. Back it went. All warranty as its got 95k on it. Two Dodge gas engine 2500s, both have lost water pumps, either plastic impeller blow ups or bearing destruction. Both have lost two engines each. Again, each truck was under 70k. And the bodies on the Dodges are quickly catching up to this one. Just imagine, if you're a race horse owner, and this thing, with a trailer that looks as bad, pulls up with your prized money winner in it. UGH! Thanks for putting the pics with the post, I still haven't figured that out yet.

This beast is a 1999. Some pics are attached. It's a horse farm truck, bought new. Routinely, still, pulls a tri-axle horse trailer. It's had more drivers than a Vegas hooker. And she's spent so much more money on it because of that. It grooms the track at the woman's farm, driven by the Mexicans who love to stomp the brake pulling the chains and wood while moving at 40 mph grooming her horse track. The "texture" paint on the front fenders, broken windshield(s) and missing mirrors are a direct result. It's had 1 trans, a rear and 1 set of injectors, 1 turbo on an otherwise unopened 7.3. It's never leaked ANY oil, and only uses oil when the dust from the horse track plugs the air filter solid. I still remember the Ford commercial with Bill Ford saying he wanted to see "worked" beat up F-Series, think it's beat up enough? Care to guess the mileage? I'll reveal that and how many miles the second trans has on it, if I get a few guesses.

They aren't too bad to do, unless...... they have carbon built up around the base, then, well they snap off and the head has to come off. The glow plugs and injectors in those things on the I5 have nasty issues with compression leakage around the base, then it's a joy to get them out.

Brad, when I was at the GM dealer a long, long time ago, we had a lot guy, who'd been doing just that for 20 years, making $30/hr. He was making considerably more than a few of the A techs in the shop at the time. This was in 1990. Where I work now, our local Ford store we get our parts from, has 2 parts drivers, one an older guy, hugely fat, lazy and a prick, who makes $27/hr. The other parts driver makes about $10 and needs the job just for the health benefits. The second driver will bend over backwards to pull his Windstar up to the bay with heavy parts or offer to bring them to you. The first guy backs right up to the building and throws the parts out, which works great for brand new brake rotors, and he won't take returns or do core credits. Both of the high amounts are ones that have been in the local U for 20 yrs or better. It amazes me there's no salary caps for particular jobs.

2002 Ranger 4.0 sohc 4x4 trans replacement, 200,000 miles on original trans. Had to add, as the owner decided to do more DPFE sensor, RH window motor, PAD switch, rear shoes, drums and all hardware. Next on her list is the a/c.

Very odd, your description fits fuel tank restriction, but you've checked and cleared that. I've seen the P1211 a bunch of times when the tank screens plug, and they do run as you've described and smoke like crazy (blue-white). Then idle very rough, and clear up after a time if they aren't completely restricted if you let them idle or shut them off. The last truck I had, a 2002 E450 with the large aft axle tank had rusted so badly that the pickup screen was completely stuffed with crap and the fuel level dropped low enough (bad sender) that the bypass couldn't pull fuel, and the truck barely ran. I agree with Bruce about the injectors. How does the beast start after an overnight soak? I've seen some so bad that at an ambient of 20C they won't start due to the injectors not delivering fuel.

Lemme ask you guys a question, with a comment.. I understand the recognition thing, where I work, they have said thanks, etc, given me a bit of financial incentive here and there, but what happened Tuesday just pissed me off to no end. I've been having major, major pain issues, with shooting pain and numb ring and pinky fingers in my right hand. Making work not easy at all. My primary doctor sent to an orthopedist, after an MRI of my cervical and thoracic spine showed 11 herniated discs. The ortho ordered a emg (nerve response test) in my right arm and shoulder to find out what's pinched and where. I went to another ortho to have this test done, and he said I have carpal tunnel (already knew that), ulnar tunnel (nerve to the two fingers) and he wanted to see the MRI, which I had brought with me to see my neck, specifically the C7-C8. He looked and was rather blunt, and showed me what he saw. The cord is nearly pinched in half at the herniation in that area and he questioned "how can you be walking?" That made my Monday. He told me I have to stop cycling (bicycle) immediately and I shouldn't be working. Should I even trip and fall in the wrong way, it could be very bad. I asked about options. The only options he said were shots, and cervical traction. Surgery on the side that's herniated is in a place that's extremely difficult to access. This ortho told me that I should be out on perm disability. Which isn't gonna happen, can't afford it financially. I need to wait for results of the nerve test to go to the first orthopedist and see what he says. I called up work, spoke to the secretary and told her the deal. She relayed it to the owner. (they are a "couple") I get to work Tuesday, waiting for something to work on in the morning and I get a VERY nasty, sarcastic attitude "Are you here to WORK or what?!?" What the fuck choice do I have? I've worked for this fucking place for 11 years, when I could have been making real money elsewhere. I've stayed only because I brought them quite a few customers from where I used to work and they keep coming pretty much only because I'm there. I almost was ready to say, "lay me the fuck off already" Have any of you had to deal with something like this?

You sure he didn't come from K-Mart? I had an advisor years ago, who was a K-Mart flunkie. Every vehicle, with more than 10,000 miles on it got sold struts and shocks. I mean EVERY one. Let's replace some super expensive Bilstein or other adjustable or electronic shock with some Gabriel ride-o-matic shit.

That's probably where I got it, and I'm just having some senior moments. I found this last night: http://www.arb.ca.gov/cap/manuals/cntrldev/sncr_etc/309scr.htm It seems more geared to industrial applications, it is detailed though.

I found this a while ago on motorcraft's site, regarding DEF usage, not sure if it's helpful or not.

Went to college for drafting and design. I was pretty good with CAD, but the basic hand drawing I needed help. The professor I had screamed, swore and berated me about how bad a job I did. I quit that and went to the automotive program. Looking back, I should have listened to my mother, who wanted me to go to work for the town at any low paying job. I could have moved up through the system and been retired now, with lifetime pension and healthcare.

They have so many issues over time with the harnesses wearing where they cross over the frame rails or body seam and weld flange areas. I'd guess it's pretty well rusty under there? How bad did the brake and fuel lines look? We have major issues with rotted brake and fuel lines on 1998-2004 G vans, and 1999-2003 Silverado trucks. They go way too early. So does a lot of frame and suspension hardware. Is the ground strap on the right side of the frame, near the starter still there? Glad to see it's doing better.