Fredsvt

Same deal here with ankles. The slightest thing on the floor can make it crack. Have had issues since I fell down a flight of stairs in my teens. Snapped both ankles and have what looks like 3 ankles per foot. Never broke them, but they sure don't look right. I can make them crack just by twisting my foot when sitting. If I roll one of them over, I have to immediately walk on them or they'll swell up too. Can't wear high top boots or boot like shoes in general. Painful. I've always gotten made fun of, as I am constantly cleaning the floors where I've worked. Even a little speedy dry can do it.

Keith... You forget we're in NJ. They'd rather have 10 trucks for 1 body and 5 guys sitting in each truck, reading newspapers, waiting for the truck using the body to come back so they can use it. The trucks will of course, be idling the whole time. They'll be waiting a long time as the other guys are sitting on the side of the road having their lunch break!

Another local truck shop near to us has a deal with a tank reconditioner, could be Renu, but I'm not sure on that. They'll take 4 old tanks and give us two tanks redone for free with a warranty.

Hi Keith, we are now saving all the old tanks. The fleet that we did 6 tanks in, at that time no one wanted them, so they got tossed. Thanks for that number, I'm going to bring it to work monday.

I recently had an issue like this. A 1999 Grand Marquis (189k miles) comes in. It has a check engine light on with "EGR" codes. He wants the "EGR" fixed. It gets scanned, and has P0301 to P0305, P0420, P0401 and P0402, and both upstream and downstream DPFE hose off codes. And it runs on a misfire badly and smells like the most pig rich 60s car you could imagine. Now mind you, after much prodding from the shop owner, we find out he's been on the internet and they said to do this and that, and this is what he did: New intake manifold, spark plugs, 4 coils, but left 4 1999 boots on the others and holes filled with oil and coolant, used EGR valve, ENTIRE engine back exhaust. 4 O2 sensors, MAF, ECT and CHT. When all that, after 2 MONTHS of work didn't fix it, he brought it to us. After scanning, I disabled the fuel pump and cranked it, hmmm, cadence sounds like 1 dead hole. Yep, number 1 dead, 25 psi. I pull valve cover to find intake valve follower off, and valve seized in the head. It did turn into a good job, new motor, new right bank cats (again) as they melted completely out and plugged the muffler and Y pipe, new DPFE and hoses as it melted, and other assorted parts. He in total, spend nearly 6k with us, plus all the money he spent. All the parts he bought, save the exhaust were Ford parts. To me, what a waste to spend so much on a car that old, and with a rusting body.

Block porosity in that dowel hole? Looks like it goes all the way to or near that oil port, isn't that the pressure feed for the cams just above? If you could clean it up, rig up a porta power filled with motor oil and pump up the system through the pressure switch port and see what happens I'd bet you'd find it quick.

I am the tech. I'm unfortunately used to this bullshit, as far as being undertooled. I've told them repeatedly that I don't want to work on any 6.0 engines without an IDS, but I did what I was told. I'd buy an IDS in a heartbeat if I felt I could get return on investment for myself, same goes for two other factory scan tools I want. 6.0s can be a very good money maker too. But, I refuse as the shop owner is well... nevermind.. I presented what I found to the owner of the shop, and he kept the owner of the fine piece of engineering abreast of things. The truck's owner wanted the tank, and tank only, and doesn't want to dive into the already messed up motor. Yet. Or so he says. I'm figuring he'll be all pissed when it blows up in the spring, when he really needs it. The tank had little rust, but a lot of delamination. The rust found in the hfcm filter was probably a result of the truck's twit owner not realizing the truck had 2 fuel filters at 84k. I figured the turbo would have to come apart should he decide that he wanted to do the coolers. I don't see it lasting long at this point. It runs only on 7 on cold start (fires near instantly), and hammers something awful until it warms. Very little smoke. It picks up those two about three minutes after a cold start at 15 degrees. So it sits until I get the vent relocation "kit" on Monday, at least it shouldn't come back with a rusted tank. Like that matters at this point. Thanks for all of your advice. I wish the shop owner would LISTEN to some of it too.

What's the difference between a 1999 and say a 2004 F350 with a aft axle tank? Just changed one in a 2004 6.0 and it looks identical to me as the F450 and F550 tanks I've changed in the older trucks. List price was scary though.

First time customer drops off his F350 rack body, says get it ready for spring. Mentions "hesitation and low power". Test drive: Decent off the line, but flattens between 2000 and 2700, then bam, it pulls HARD to 3500 and stays at good power, actually maybe a little too good, as long as you keep your foot in it. Oil temp cruising on a 30 degree day is 215, coolant is 180. Beating on it slowly raises oil temp. Has cylinder 2 contribution codes stored. I don't have an IDS, would have to borrow to perform all tests, wouldn't be difficult. I visually see once in shop: Crapa unitized oil filter, leaking. Significant coolant trails and wet coolant on degas bottle. Coolant is a mix of green and gold. Customer is warned of possible cooler issues amongst others. He is wants done no matter what: Oil change w/motorcraft's synthetic 5w40, replace cap and put proper filter in. Change coolant, got tons of sludge out of drain. Change atf, both in pan and external filter. Fuel filters. Upon pulling filter, it needs a tank (aft axle), the HUGE amount of water I drained and condition of filter is disgusting. Cleaning out the hfcm after the filter is out, I see tank lining in my drain, a lot of it. The upper filter was collapsed as it looks like he didn't know it had 2 filters, it wasn't a Ford filter element and there's fine metallic looking sediment in the bowl. After completing what he wanted done, what would you recommend. No change in driveability with new fuel filters. Tank, obviously. And what else?

I have 5 feet of snow in most parts of my yard. Got a little melting in the past couple of days. Last weeks "minor" accumulation turned into 20 inches in 4 hours. I just can't wait for the "minor" ice accumulation over the next 2 days we're supposed to get. I can't sandbag the water table. I'll have the sumps full as soon as it melts and the ground thaws. Then I'll end up having to shop vac the basement floors again.

Hi Jim I like to bust on the guys that pull up to the shop. When they're bs'ing with the boss or whoever they came to talk to; I'll say "Is it 70 below out there? Why do you leave your stinkbox running out there? I like to breathe, you know." and I walk away. Always makes for an interesting expression on their face.

To ease the shits, take acidophilus pills. With the antibiotic take one of the acidophilus pills. You can get them in most grocery stores or pharmacies. They replace the helpful bacteria in your gut that the strong antibiotic is killing. It does work for me, I used to get violent bouts when taking stuff like augmentin.

If it already hasn't been linked, here's the teardown. Not exactly what I expected. I'd have liked to see the long version. http://fordf150ecoboostforum.com/index.php?/topic/13-2011-eco-boost-hero-engine-tear-down/

Here's a little diesel running away. I'd have gotten out a bit faster, since you sit on the motor in a Previa. Here's another on a dyno, sounds like it spun way up and well... I only had 1 6.0 that almost ran away. Guy bought one of the very first ones, and it got towed for engine noise and smoke. I went out to the lot, and it had a bit less than 20k on the odo. Started it, it rattled LOUD with a fuel knock, then stalled. It cranked right back up and revved all the way to 4 grand, I shut the key, and got away from it. It ran like that for about 10 seconds and shut off.

I hope the machine shop straightened the heads prior to decking them. If not, that warp is going right into the cam bearing bores once they're torqued back down. A seized cam wouldn't be fun after doing all that work.

How not flat is the block deck and heads? They must've gotten that thing good and hot.

If you're talking about the discharge Y line off the tandem pump: I've not had to remove the turbo on a pickup application. Even on those with the California setup with that stupid accumulator thing on the line. Take off the compressor discharge Y and the two orange tubes, and block off the intake boxes so as not to drop crap down there. I usually break loose the lines at each head and then break loose the banjo bolt, and spin it out with my fingers. Make sure to retrieve the washers. Take off the line fittings at the head and work the Y line out. I've not seen those lines ever rub through, maybe rot. The rubber lines and the tandem pump leak far more often on these older trucks, as well that fuel filter vacuum switch. On E vans, it's easier to me to take the turbo off, since its right there.

Hey Keith, Doesn't the old '96 have conventional door jamb switches in the A pillar, not latch switches?

I'll bet the customer never told the indie shop just how hot the car got at some point. Does it just happen to have a brand new water pump belt on it? Seen that a couple of times. Both went away as the customers couldn't afford to put a motor in either. People love to leave out little details like that.

The worst blue tipped wrench incident I ever saw happened to a coworker at the last place I was at. He was trying to do an outer tie rod on an older VW Rabbit. I walked over to him, and told him that car had a 1 piece inner/outer tie rod. The outer was crimped onto the threads of the inner. He told me to fuck off. So I walked away. He proceeded to heat that tie rod until the ball joint part of the outer tie rod exploded, the cap and grease went into his forearm, the disc was in his arm almost all the way through and you could see all of the tendons and blood vessels, they were all cauterized so he really didn't bleed. A trip to the ER and multiple surgeries kept him out of work for almost a year.

Recently, I've done boneheaded things, the worst being I was going to spray down a part with brake cleaner. Needless to say, I wasn't paying attention and the nozzle was pointed directly at my right eye. Of course I pushed down............. I've never screamed so loud. I really think it was the one of the worst pains I've ever had to deal with. This caused me numerous trips to the eye doctor. I only have full vision out of my right eye to start with. It's taken nearly 6 months to regain almost normal vision.

I just did one that I got 7 of 8 out fairly easy. Number 7 opened the crimp and threaded portion came out, leaving the complete bullet and porcelain in the head. I REALLY didn't want to break the plug off any worse. So, I put a moving blanket over the motor, and cranked it. BOOOMMM (I can't emphasize just HOW loud it was) and it came out complete, stuck solidly in the blanket.

Hopefully this will work, here's one installed. To hear one of these pull away, well, is different, not what you'd expect.

Yes and no. There are rotary "nuts" out there. But... We had a kid that worked in our shop who bought a '93 turbo RX-7. The rotary was blown when he bought it, it now has a LS-2 w/6 spd M, soon to have an LS-7. The LS engine, and it's subframe w/trans weighs less and fits under the hood better than the Mazda parts. And it's by far cleaner, emission wise. It must be nice to have loaded parents. Here's the conversion parts, less the motor/trans/PCM. http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/s-602-lsx-v8-mounting-kit.aspx

Thanks for the links and descriptions. I'm trying to keep up as best I can with all the new technology coming out. Since I was looking around, why doesn't this work with all diesels? Or is this catalyst technology just too expensive. It doesn't require any urea injection. Its from '06 as well. http://world.honda.com/news/2006/c060925DieselEngine/