Steve Mutter

remove the torque converter,re install the trans and see if your noise goes away,that way you can rule out any kind of trans noise, just thinking out loud

it has c1237,the truck now gets its rear speed from oss sensor in trans,gone thru the pinpoint test d,found a ground loose on the stud on the left wheel well,still comes back,my oss and my vss will jump all over the place, has anyone run into this,I am just going to start to load test circuits if you have any tips or info that would be cool

have not removed and inspected,I have a short block coming and it is going to be awa,I think it will look like Bruno's engine, the whole crank moves alot

slow hear in winnipeg, I think most of the dealers hear are the same

what I thought would be a sweet icp and connector job went to a rear main oil leak,so I put the truck in the air and inspected, pulled that rubber piece out of the trans and out came about six litres of oil,ok this is different so I pulled the trans out and inspected to see what is going on,it looks like the seal let go so I go to remove it and the crankshaft moves alot, I get a dial gauge on it and it moves about 75 thou. How is this thing even running with that kind of play in the crankshaft? any one come across this? oh, and hear is the kicker, it only has 55000 km(34177mile)

nice,where did the right side head go? thru the hood? nothing money wont fix right

I had the same problem,I think they call that oil baffle a shim in the parts catalog,I can't get the part # today but if you still need it on monday I will look it up

short answer yes,even in the new model training for the 6.4 Ford talks about the benefits to the cab lift and why they did it that way,but if you have to do a super duty in chassis it is not the end of the world

sweet!!

If your read the list he has, bigger injectors, he is running nos and a tunner,fun is fun but I think it would be funny if he went to the dealer and asked for warranty on the engine,I to don't see removing the dfp causing engine damage but that other stuff,oh well just fun to watch what people can do with these trucks

what money can do,do you think he would have the balls and try and get engine warranty???

You rise a good point, it is a moral dilemma,I have had one that had a egr cooler let go,so I was doing the tsb to a tee and the part were it has you test the oil cooler it did not fail,I replaced both coolers any way and re road tested,cooling system did not go over holding perssure,now did I fix the truck?maybe or will it come back in a month or so blowing the rad cap off? maybe. it realy is a hard question to answer becuase there are so many variable, but to kind of answer your question we try to follow the tsb with in reason, it is hard to tell the cust it might be 1 day or it might be 3 or 4 days or even longer if it needs heads, so far if the truck is smokeing bad we tell the cust we have to do the coolers first and then see if it goes over holding perssure after, and if it does will have to take the heads off and inspect, so if they needed the truck right away the could re book for the headgaskets,I don't know if this is the best way to deal with coolant loss? but I to would like to hear how other shops are dealing with this

good call a forgot about the oil pickup tube,thanks Bruce

I have a front cover with a pin hole coolant leak, F-350 2003 7.3,the book does not have a in chassis repair,can it be done in chassis or is it best to remove engine to removed the oil pan?

recall for the recall and I bet a flash as well

love that type of customer,I had one that would read the internet and tell me what parts to replaced on this tow truck,I hope returning the truck to stock clears up the problem

the picture of that kenworth with the front end of the truck pulled off is impressive,how the hell did they do that?

Holy shit thats cool man! good luck!

I think it's just a way to sell it,I bet there is some kind of loophole so they can get out of paying,

Hi Rick its Steve from Mid Town,Hard to find a good Ford shop in Winnipeg,it seems we have to many dealers and none of them can book in steady work, kind of the same thing hear, people decline work till they get a brake job or maint #3 or if it is a diesel truck they will use the old "its diesel work" that is if it is anything other then brakes or ball joints then they will work on it,I looked at going to CAA's fleet shop but I don't know what they pay?

thanks for the input,I replaced the blower as per roush and when I was doing it I found one of the intake elbow bolt has oil all through the threads and it looked like it was leaking? I re seal the lower intake put thread sealer on the intake elbow, replaced all blower gaskets,I road tested this thing 3 different times and over 60 km (37 mile),no check engine light,I hope this is the end oh and you think Ford warrenty sucks roush payed me 2.0 hours to replaced the blower and check the lower intake manifold for flat,nice!

ya it got flashed by roush,I talked to them and tryed to get info on what the fuel trims should be but they did not want to tell me to much,don't really know were to go with this one?

2006 mustang gt that I put a charger on,it leaks oil on the intake and puts lean codes for both banks,I can find an air leak(have smoke tested),my fuel trim at idle is 10 and 12% long and short jumps around -3 +3%,roush has told me to put washer under the blower bolts because the intake may have not been drilled deep enough,just replaced the blower as per roush and the air intake tube as it was weak and not sealing,I get freeze frame data it shows fuel trim at 24% for long,does anyone have more experience on this stuff,I am not the best at gas diag and roush is really hard to get a hold of,does anyone have any suggestions what I should be looking for?

I got one that has had I bit of work done at another dealer,it has got a new fuel injection pump and gasket,right side head for having stuck valve,and now its hear for a fuel leak and stall no start with p2291,the fuel supply tubes were finger loose so I am going to replaced both,have you guys seen a pump leak from the fittings at the pump? not sure if I should replaced the pump as well,I would hate to have to do this job again, and as others have said it would be nice to run the engine to check for leaks befor putting the cab down, what do you guys think?

like Alex said,it is not hard in chassis and I too would not even consider cab removal