Tony302600

When I did my first one it wasn't that bad (crapload of m-time for it being a tow truck). I did however make a list of EVERYTHING you need to order, for each thing you do. I have a list for just removing the cab, then one for removing the exhaust. Part list include's washer's, nut's, bolt's, quantities, and their part #'s> I call it #1, #2, #3 and the part's guy's know what i want by looking at the sheet i made for them. Being the first one to do it was a disaster, took a full day for my part's guy's to find everything, then the week of, no that's no the right one.

Anytime we work on something, We or the SA go on a test drive. We've NEVER let a customer go by themselves. That doesn't do any justice.

How do they take longer, I think they're better and save ure back from repeated torqueing with the factory one's. One step instead of 5

Removed the chip...everything is ok. Hotline said "It is illegal and wouldn't tell me how to go back to an older calibration due to emmision and safety standards. If an aftermarket company does it then he must take it to them for any calibration other then what I put in." Customer is slightly mad even though he didn't tell me he has a chip in it. Manager said stop there, put the chip on the passenger seat and ship it.

Well Dave....WTF happened with that ticket.

Dave, when you did the oil cooler you should have checked that screen in the block. When an oil cooler is done, i suck out all the oil and check the screen in to the block to make sure there isn't any shit sitting in the bottom of the galley. A must according to hotline!!!

Ok here's exactly what happened. Friday morning get the ticket. 07s57 recall, crank/no-start. I open the hood, check oil, ok. Truck start's right up. Run it and drive it into my stall. Get IDS, hook it up, no communication? hmm, that weird. Cycle key, has communication, peform DTC's, all diag with IDS, drive it for 10 min...ok doing nothing. Only DTC's it has is the wastegate solenoid disconnected. Let it sit for 4 hours, drive it again...ok not doing anything. It sit's another 4 hours waiting for the customer....i go to pull it around, stall's twice, start's up right away. Tell service writer, guy say's when it happened to him, "started truck, reversed, put it in gear, hit throttle, it stalls, no glow plug light upon key cycling. tow's it in." Next morning, i get in the truck, drive it around...nothing, hookup IDS, p0605, ok...reprogram ( has later calibration ) now i have what i have now. (no start/communication, all sensor's disconnected) Call customer... he say's "Oh yea, I have a chip IN THE PCM (not through the DLC), it need's to be calibrated to PM1 not PM2, because i have a performance, trans and aftermarket turbo." I said, I could have avoided all this hassle if you would have told me that it already had a chip. He says " Well i have had the chip in it for a while and hasn't acted up til now." I said i'll figure it out monday, but more than likely it's ure chip. Now i have the no start sitting in my stall. We have another 7.3L sitting out back, im going to swap PCM's. If it start's then i'll tell him it's his chip/pcm.

Joy, I have an int. stalling 7.3L. Has 136,000 on the ticker, did the recall hoping it would help it out but no When it stall's the Glow plug light does not come on when trying to restart. I drove it around yesterday nothing, let it cool down then drove it again, nothing. Customer came to pick it up and as soon as i turned the corner it stalled, then restarted, then drove it to my bay, stalled, then restarted. He left it overnight. Today I drove it cold again, nothing, nothing at all, DTC's are p0605, Reprogrammed PCM for the po605, Now it wont start at all and no glow plug light/no communication. Pinpoint for the p0605 is replace PCM, checked power's and ground's ok. No RPM Gauge does not move. disconnected water heater, nothing, disconnected, ICP, IPR, MAP, CAM, still no wait to start light/no communication. On edit: Customer called me to tell me that he has a hypermax chip in the PCM, I guess I have to go to the older program, Anyone know how to do that?

Us too, they will tell us about it, we will go over the ticket with them to make sure we did everything correctly, but 9outta10 times its STUPID F-IN W.P.I. I hate that stupid company, and so Does Ford. Dave, when i did the head on the 6.4, I got 10hours M-time just to get the cab up. Tow truck was a bitch with all the wiring, pump's, hoses. ANd then the rest of the time to do the head. I don't get what's wrong with your dealership. Why don't you sit down and right down labor opps on the R.O. I've started doing that, it's reduced a lot of problems

I think the best is when you get a cut that doesn't tear the glove. I had blood gushing down my hand and it didnt even tear the glove

Why, you have to keep thing's interesting.

Holy crap he misspelled something.

HEAT, HEAT, HEAT, HEAT...... i used the heat wrench on the head of the bolt just enough to loosen it with my 1/2 rachet, then just took it out with the rachet. The one i used the impact on and heat wrench spun the cage nut.

Dead head the HP system to just the Pump, I had an VERY similar reading and it was a torn o-ring under the pump.

i don't get the issue here. We work on ton's of 6.0's in the 5/100 and we've never had an issue. Sometime's we use TSB labor opps and sometimes we don't. I have a 3 page list of what's covered on the diesel warranty, I go over it when im not sure the part is covered. Even if the causal part # is on that sheet, anything it "takes out" or effect's will also be covered.

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif Sounds like me...

+1 on that. I can't even count how many oil cooler's ive done on 05's, RARELY see 03's in for coolers.

As stated by the Great Jim..... "Some days you're the dog.... and some days you're the fire hydrant."

Unbelievable....your post's are.........leaving me speechless....LoL. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

+1 avatar, i forgot what we this topic is about.

2 apprentice's, long steel pipes to fit over the rachets, and me with the 3/4'' torque wrench. A torque multiplier is MUCH more realisitic.

I've noticied that kid's growing up who have the psycho mother's sterilizing anything and everything, have grown up to be sicker longer, faster, more often. Mysister is a germ freak, she get's sick a lot... I let thing's fly, so i barely ever get sick. I think when ure young, when the germ get's into your system, your body builds anti-bodies for it, your system become's trained since it is used more. The germ freak immune system is weak because the body hasn't fought a lot of battles due to the germ free environment. I wear gloves only because i like to have my hand's clean. For some reason my body doesnt like Mercon 5, so i wear glove's. Maybe better piece of mind. I use Sepreno SE nitrile gloves. They are the perfect thickness to wear I can use a pair a day. They don't break easy, but i still can "feel" what i'm doing. The shitty doctor gloves don't like brake clean and totally break up. Jim aren't we being scared to "do the right thing" on ure off topic rant's? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif J/K i can say your rant's have changed me to do the right thing. I just like arguing with you.!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Don't get me wrong, I know which are torque critical and which arent on job's ive done multiple times. Any job I haven't done yet get's a look see through the procedure online. The torque reading's get recorded for the torque critical bolt's. I'm anal about torqueing down 6.0 intake's, head's, HP pump's, etc etc etc. Does a F-450 front caliper anchor need to get torqued down? No, i think my 1/2 impact does an adequete job. Does the rear pinion nut on a F-550 rear end need to be torqued to 600ft/lb YES!!!! In my opninion I think torque stick's are more practical, and i'm sure a lot of you guy's are in agreeance with me (some wont admit it).

I've heard about that on the earlier ones also. I've had the o-ring in the bottom of the HP pump fail, causing SUPER erratic ICP reading's.

I'll show you my setup....I used fuel line's from the injection clean kit, the rubber with steel line imbedded. I'll take pix tom.