iceman

i had one with the very same concern seems to have an extended crank time when u get it running drive the hell out of it then do a hpop air test mine was left side blank plug oring starting to eat away it was not leaking enough to cause a no start hot but when it sat over night it would air up and cause a hard start in the morning

Here is one guys "Nitrous is like a hot chick with STD's You know you wanna hit it but your afraid of the consequences"

i have read something about a cup trick on fmc dealer so i am trying to find it but can't seem to come up with anything so i was curious if someone could explain this to me thanks kevin

17-ML-1985-ML- Moved to more appropriate forum

how do you tell on a 6.0 or 6.4 if its a first fit oil filter asked hotline no help there lol i am just curious

some how or another i remember reading something about hpop gear whine somewhere on the ford site. I have heard alot of trucks making this noise but they never complain

already ahead of ya with 13000 miles yup there is cavitation i will be replacing the oil cooler, front cover all hoses and some other bs that they want me to do hotline said no way that oil can enter coolant thru front cover i call bs on that

just showed up yesterday 6.4 13500 miles and oil all in the degass bottle not like the 6.0 like a pudding sludge just nasty black oil has anyone encountered any one of these yet

had one similar to this customer put gas in instead of diesel died while driving. scattered hp fuel pump replaced pump and all injectors and fuel logs cleaned tank and lines left for a couple of days and then died again hp pump failed. replaced pump again and started and missed cut open fuel filters and found metal in filters. there is metal contamination on return side of fuel system bouncing around causing a miss fire

check oil dipstick tube bracket had one eating my lunch and come to find out it was the bracket spot welds on the oil dipstick tube bracket

the cause was sand casting in the engine causing porosity then leading to cavitatiion and eventually over heating the engine then blowing the egr cooler yes i am putting an engine in i am not sure of the cost cap but hotline did say piston and rod and crank kits are avalible

well here it goes guys, truck has about 19,000 on the ticker comes in blowing white smoke and over heats, found truck hydrolocked, found coolant pouring out ebp port removed all glow plugs then performed compression test found 4 and 8 low at around 200 pulled cab found horizontal egr cooler blown. contacted hotline said to remove water pump. found cavitation behind pump thru front cover, pulled head as per hotline found cyl 4 bent rod and cyl8 cylinder burnt and washed out this will be my second unit these suck aint nothing like a sicko egr cooler thats gravy

try checking to see if the water pump is sheared off remove the hose from intake to degas bottle and start engine if the water flows its ok if not pull water pump i have had several of these

i have not heard anything like that bruce but i may do some checking and get back to you on that i kinda makes some sense. seeing that the pcm monitors all sorts of temperatures on these things i could be possible

oh yeah and the first radiator was by the workshop manual the second time was my way but we all figure out our own way is faster lol sorry bout the punctuation lol

thats the easiest way i found is just unbolting the coolers and letting them hang by the hoses and and not loosening up the condenser lines and the radiator comes right out yea the lower radiator hose is a bitch almost reminds me of like a corvette radiator the way they have it slanted in there.

just replaced my 2nd 6.4 radiator. First time about 5 hours second time 1.5 hours. How are you guy replaceing the radiators any tips or tricks yet

we have used the egr cooler test kit we had some adapters made to pressure test the egr cooler works real well when you can get the cooler off and it still hot from just driving it in the shop 99% of them leak at around 5 to 10 psi

have seen numerous ones that are hydro locked when the egr cooler ruptures. The real fun is when you go out on the lot after the repair to blow what coolant is left in the exhaust makes a nice white thick smoke lol haha

drained tank and refilled with good unleaded fuel car ran fine then started right up hesitated a little but in the end it ran like a striped ass ape lol thanks guys. They should have put a diesel in these things easier to work on hahahaha

i took a fuel sample today into a clean empty 20 oz water bottle to my surprise it looked like piss lol haha. It had a very faint smell of gas also it did not eat thru a styrofoam cup. I went and purchased 32cents of gas and put it into another water bottle and found this same regular unleaded gas had a light blue tint and smelled like gas again i placed some in another like styrofoam cup and it ate right thru in under 30seconds. So it looks like i will be draining the tank and putting some fresh juice into it. I hope it solves the problem. I did ask her if she by mistakinly put diesel in it she replied no i use the black handle not the green. So i called the gas station and they have been having problems the diesel is mixed with the gas so it looks like there ass is paying for the job. I will post when i find out more. thanks guys

well in chassis in my opinion is easy to do heads. But let me just warn ya 98% of the time the egr cooler is ruptured and the other 2% is a cracked head or warped. But anyway you can r and r the left and right head in chassis with out removing the intake or turbo or radiator basically just pulling the valve covers and pulling the heads apart yes i do remove the evap box but the driver side i don't remove anything i just get er done i also just use a half inch brake over bar and torque them there 3 rounds in chassis its tough but someone has to do it lol oh yea i am 22 and i love the hell out of these 6.0s they are gravy and sorry bout the punctuation lol life is too short for it haha

well in chassis in my opinion is easy to do heads. But let me just warn ya 98% of the time the egr cooler is ruptured and the other 2% is a cracked head or warped. But anyway you can r and r the left and right head in chassis with out removing the intake or turbo or radiator basically just pulling the valve covers and pulling the heads apart yes i do remove the evap box but the driver side i don't remove anything i just get er done i also just use a half inch brake over bar and torque them there 3 rounds in chassis its tough but someone has to do it lol oh yea i am 22 and i love the hell out of these 6.0s they are gravy and sorry bout the punctuation lol life is too short for it haha

this is an 04 mustang with a 3.9liter. Vehicle is a crank no start. I verified it that the engine would hit but not run, retrieved pending code p0340 cmp, fuel pressure is ok. ingnition ok. The vehicle will start if primed with starting fluid and run. It detonates and spark knocks extremly bad under light load. You can shut if off and wait 10 mins and will restart and still run like shit, let it sit overnight and will not start until reprimed. the engine is in time and i have put a known good cmp sensor on still same problem all wiring is ok. I am a diesel tech and this is just eating my lunch any help is appreciated thank in advance

if you take the hose off the degas bottle on the passenger side to intake and no water comes out when engine is running there is either a restriction or no water pump flow real easy test if you want to find out if the pump is pumping or not