walleyewarrior

WE too have been getting a rash of them, and about 50 percent of them the injector are actually stuck closed. So i have been dilligent in pulling the injector out and doing the dosing test. i agree that there is probably a software issue that needs to be addressed but just to let you know that we have been replacing the actual injector too. Just something to look out for.

i am wondering if someone can shed some light on this. I have both test kits, strips and contamination test. unless i am reading the test strips incorrectly ,every one i check needs to be recharged and according to the little instructions it says to use vc 8. and are both cooling systems being checked? I confuse easily thanks in advance!

what i have seen is the water that collects there freezes and when u go to drain that oring stays in housing, Of course that only applies to us eskimos who are crazy enough to live in this ridiculous freezing weather! -40 this week and add a wind chill on top of that

i have as list of 20 now all waiting for a Calibration that they are working on.

It was driven till it quit. It is getting the full meal deal and for once I get to take something apart for the first time and get paid retail for it! We on average this year have been getting one a month with gas in diesel all but one were driven. And agreed why should Ford pay for anything or future repair. I would never send it down the road for one of my fellow Diesel techs to get charged back ie a HP pump replacement cause ford says there was signs of gas in pump. A very expensive lesson!

Honey you go fill the truck i gotta take a big shit...famous last words. now i have a 11 with a fine blend of gas/diesel. i have a list of parts to replace but am looking for any ideas on labour time to replace all of it. only warranty time i have found is injectors at 4 hr.

i am running into a rash of faulty CRHA right out of the box. 5 in the last month. WE are doing anyhting differently then the other hundreds we do. I think the q in quality fell off the cliff once the repair came out. Or did they just ship the bad ones north???????Bastards

I hve one ere right now, drove it with gas it it died. Wondering what kind of time did you charge to do this job? i would be pulling cab .

We cannot find any signs of rust anywhere or even black in cooler lines, nothing. my conclusion is that the pump failed ,ran shit threw took injecotrs out which in turn took engine out. gave ford all the documentation, they have authorized a drop in complete.

O it blowed up REAL good! MY concern now is if pump has failed how do I cover my ass to make sure this thing isnt going to come back on us that they found rust in pump even thow all my sample look good. Should I cover my ass and get a fuel sample analyzed?

This 08 comes in for a no start issue, i have no high pressure fuel most it builds is 60 psi. So do a visual, first thing noted is crankcase is way over filled, Ok no problem, so we pull the glow plugs out crank it over and find 1 and 2 are misting bad, we put 2 injectors in it and retry. still not building pressure, we take samples of fuel from water seperator, look in bottom of seconadry and unhook a fuel injector line and take a sample. it all looks good, Anyways it didnt sound right to me while tech was cranking it so i got him to do a compression test, 2 show max 100 psi, so im thinking ok bent rod from prob injecotor. so he tears down engine and we find that all the injectors are just dripping away. every cylinder is full of full, turbo was leaking oil out outlet, and 4 pistons are melted away. This truck is going to need a drop in for sure but my question is what would cause these injectors to do that?!?!? no injector recall on truck. and would the low fuel pressure be cause the other injectors were stuck open? or is the pump done? the mist test dint show anything on other cylinders only revealed once heads came off. it wasnt hydraliced wen it came in cause we were able to crank it over no problem, anyone else run into this????

Thanks for the article, makes me giggle! I owned one of the rare Ford Tempo diesels and that totally sounds familiar. back in 84 that thing got me 58 mpg but what a gutless wonder!! Didnt start in winter worth a shit but i drove that car till it had 425000 km on it!

I am not saying that there isnt a market for light duty diesels and yes they work very well in todays CARS. I am curious as to what kind of performance u would get and fuel economy from the overall weight of the truck itself. And what kind of pulling power you could actually get out of it. I maybe newer to this forum sure but by no means am I unschooled in this discusion. I dont see many jetta or mercedes benz with hitches bolted underneath them. And i am all for having a diesel in a half ton. More diesels on the road the better it is for us!

i just dont get it, why would you even want a diesel in a half ton? if u want to pull by a super duty. If u are looking for fuel economy that wont be the answer even with a small v6, i would rather drive a 5.4l 3v which i have yet to hear ONE complaint of crappy fuel economy in the 2009, everyone loves then, with the optional tow package of pulling 11000 lbs. with no upfront costs of a disel engine or maintenace cost of one as well. if i was trying to pull 11000 lbs anyways i would step up to a superduty anyways. what kind of pulling power do u think they could get out of a v6 diesel anyways, and what about suspension and frame conerns? And why would they even think about putting a diesel in a half ton when the other 2 arent even thinking about it. And if u are looking for fuel economy in a diesel engine and in a half ton, i am sure it would end up being a gutless wonder, and with DPF systems and now the upcoming uria injection I just dont see any practical use for it. thats just my humble opinion.

And thanks to everyone for their previous inputs

4 8C3Z-6N640-A Exhaust Gasket 2 8C3Z-6N640-B Exhaust Gasket 1 8C3Z-9G805-A Kit-Cover Fuel Pump 4 W302870B Fuel Line Washers 9 1817957-C1 EGR-Pipe Bracket Bolt 2 W300003 EGR-OC Bracket Bolts 1 W711484S439 intermediate steering shaft bolt 8 W712878-S439 Body Bolt(EXECPT CREW CAB) 6 W712878-S439 Body Bolt(CREWCAB ONLY) 2 W712879-S439 Body Bolt(CREWCAB ONLY) 6 W302494 Nuts 1 7C3Z-6L612-B Turbo Outlet Gasket CAB OFF HARDWARE LIST This is the list we use in our shop, it has all the lastest part numbers as of today.

Well hotline told me that its washing the engine off after replacing the sender and to clean engine off blow everything dry before replacing the sender. and all the trucks after we relace the coolers yes we do wash down the engines. Since then we changed the way we do things and to go out of our way to pull the sender out before we clean everything and if we replace a sender we do wash everything off with the old sender in it. havent had one come back yet. i think the most important thing is to dry off the connector before clipping it in. Not sure if its a coincedence or not but any truck not coming back over something silly like that is worth the extra effort in my opinion.

Wondering if anyone else is running into this problem, in the last month after doing oil cooler replacements the trucks are coming back with oil senders leaking threw them. Now we first thought that maybe it was becuase we had been putting the top covers into the parts washer along with the oil sender attached, So i got my guys to start removing them prior to cleaning them. But they are still failing, anyone else having this same problem? Now i have one in this morning that is leaking yet again, this would be the sencond sender. If it was cause of high oil pressure u would think seals would fail way before a sender would. And also half were oil ccoler kits and the other were complete assemblies

Wondering if anybody has a good place in the Edmonton Area to buy parts for my 1991. I am looking for a kit to replaced all the return hoses and caps as well as a replacement pump for it. Back in the day we used to get pumps from GCL. The old girl needs a little TLC . Been such a great truck still pulls great even with 305000 km on it. Hard to let it go. Inside still is mint but the paint has just about all peeled away. Missed the paint recall by 6 months. And the usual rust for a 91. I want it to breathe some new life!

I was doubtful until I tried it last week.WOW does an amazing job AND your floor gets cleaned at the same time! It really does work!

Currently we are replacing one or two a day. That is until they became unavailiable recently. The ones that still run but are hard starting cold we have been telling customers to plug in until they become availiable. That seems to be working for them. The ones that dont start are lining up out back! I believe the new program is just helping the FICMS that are on their way out to quit quicker with the extra load on them. If you unplug the EOT and plug in a 80K resistor in the circuit it will simulate a cold enough engine to activate the rapid heat strategy. Unbolt the power supply to alt and glow plugs at right battery. now turn key on and monitor FICM power if it drops below 45V replace. I have checked them without doing that and they stay over 45V but once you plug in the resistor they have dropped below causing the no starts. That is why the new startegy is failing them quicker, and BTW just unplugging the EOT wont activate rapid heat. I have tried this and saw that the PCM just tppk the last normal reading and substituted it. Hope this helps.