Shlep

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif The old baffle them with bullshit routine /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/stooges.gif

Obviously this is one of those areas that everyone has their own preference, personally I perfer cab off but if I have to do it cab on so be it. As far as squeaks and rattles go you're far more likely to have those doing the cab on method due to the amount of crap you have to remove to access the engine.

I've been in bitter debates about this in the past and method one is the only way I'll do the repair and it must have new seals on anything that I tear apart, last thing I need is a farmer stuck in the field with his 4x4 inop /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Well, I finally got back to this thing and started fresh(threw out all the prevoius tech's BS papers and test results) performed a power balance test and had a definate miss on cyl2, relative compression shows 0% difference, fuel injector flow test show all between 113 and 115 ms, removed the intake and swapped the coil to cyl 4 the injector to cyl 5 and the plug to cyl 6, replaced the intake, fired her up and low and behold I now have a miss on cyl 5, removed the intake and installed a new injector cleared the KAM and she runs like a champ. So it appears the flow test means jack shit in this case. Oh and the popping noise in the intake appears to be the same problem some of us has had with the Freestar, replaced the IAC and the noise was gone. Who woulda guessed.

Yeah that way does seem to work the best out of all the methods we've tried, even the old PVT hose from the WDS doesn't work as well.

This thing have a programmer or tuner in it, I had one with the same codes and same no start and found the Edge programmed tucked under the dash. Disconnected it cleared the codes and she fired right up.

Thanks Keith, and as far as Microsoft being involved the bothers the hell outta me too. I think John Q has too many toys in these things as it is let alone any of the shit they have planned.

Could someone please post the contents of this while we wait for the translation folks to do their thing /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Thanks

I've been thinking about doing that but was wondering if it would work, now maybe I'll actually get around to doing it.... Thanks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

As far as I know it's not supposed to lose any vacuum.

I've had luck with the WDS but so far I can't figure out how to make the IDS work but I'm still trying.

Yeah I figure I've got an intake valve not fully seating at times but the powers that be didn't want to order a head at the time, guess we'll see whats the next move they have in mind.

Alright guys I'm in need of some insight on this one, so bare with me on this. We've got a 08 Escape 3.0 with 31 000 kms/ 20 000 miles on the clock that has a definate miss on cyl 2 with compression good, fuel injector good, and swapped to another cyl to make sure, coil and plug swapped as well, running compression test and manual compression test shows nothing out of the ordinary but I still have what I consider to be a engine miss that sounds to be firing into the intake, now if I spray tuneup cleaner into the intake the miss goes away completely and the noise in the intake disappears and the power balance test shows me a nice flat line. Another tech has had the head off and other then a higher amount of carbon in the chamber nothing was obvious. Now a machine shop had looked over the head (from what I was told, I was at school) and everything was good including the stem to guide clearance. So what am I overlooking here besides maybe a lash adjuster pumping up but the tuneup cleaner wouldn't have an effect on that, so I would think anyways. Anyways fire what you can at this and I'll post what happens as we go. Thanks Don

Jim I couldn't agree more, and I'm sure Aaron will chime in here shortly as well about the Union brotherhood we deal with on a daily basis,a bunch of lazy SOB's that bitch and moan all day about how they don't make money and how the company does them wrong ... blah blah blah bitch moan complain day in day out. If I had my way I would work in a non-union shop in a heartbeat but with times as they are I'm just glad to have a pay cheque.

+100000

I disagree Jim, while others may have been offended by things said, you gave alot of good advise and tips on doing things right. Besides who else would call Ralph a "wiener" /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

I tend to agree with the manufacturing issues causing most of the failures, with customer abuse or neglect being the other factors. I've used 75W140 in all my toys since the early 90's and I've never had a bearing issue or any other failure that was caused by anything other then abuse on my part /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Personally I think this will be a huge hit in the larger city markets, I mean remember how many cargo Aerostars that were running the roads and many people are still running them because there was nothing of a similar size since GM stopped the Astro van.

Dave, the best way I've found is to attach my regular fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and hold it open until I see no more air bubbles in the relief hose. Even the one I had to entire system open for 3 days fired right up and kept running.

Tony did that flush ever do what it was supposed to do or was it more empty promises? I've used some MOC stuff on a few 6.0s with mixed results but it does seem to smooth out the idle on most... for now anyways.

Actually if you order them from Summit Racing they're around 590.00 I believe.

I used a set on a F550 stake truck that had repeat failures and it seems to have cured the problem, keep in mind you'll have to do this cab off or the engine removed from the truck for clearance.

Alex is correct on that.

Probably looking for the "right" fixes to pass on to engineering /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/ford.gif