slim

I went into our parts department and tried to find a zip tie 5/16" wide. We didn't have one but we only have like 10 different sizes, so I guess we need to order more, but they are probably on backorder now. This is cheaper than redesigning than connectors and purging old stock, at least Ford isn't owned by the government, it just seems like it some times.

My manager got these two attachments in an e-mail from our field engineer about 2 weeks ago. I just did a high pressure pump yesterday and used the zip tie procedure but the connector spacer wasn't in the pump. I'm just passing these on for anybody who hasn't seen them. I don't have the original text on the e-mail anymore but I think it said these were going to be put into the boxes with the HPP.

I feel bad for ignorant people, but now it sounds like he is acting stupid. Let him know there is no charge for the lesson he just learned. If it was my decision I would probably give him a break on the labor rate to have it repaired since he already spent money buying the engine from you and will be spending more having it repaired, just to try to make him happy, but it depends on the situation and I'm not there. It's a bad situation for everyone involved and there is no win/win solution.

Doesn't it warn you about engine debris in the intake manifold on the engine tag and in the paper work that comes with the engine.

I guess you could hook that wire to a brake light wire and hope the SJB doesn't disable that circuit.

You should also think about availability and price of parts since the 6.4L was only available for 2 model years. I have a feeling these engines and their parts will be mostly obsolete in 5 years.

Yeah, I've seen our old front end guy wrestle with one of those things. The plastic liner ended up stuck inside the hydroboost and it was a 7.3L. He replaced the hydroboost and the pressure line. It then came back a week later with the same problem. I never thought about him kinking or pinching the line when installing it but it seems the most logical cause of failure. Maybe somebody else did some work around the pressure line recently which caused the failure.

The fuel pressure tester would also show bubbles if there is a leak on the inlet side of the pump. I guess you could check fuel flow with the engine off and then with the engine running to see if it's a leak or combustion gas.

It is also now in the workshop manual which has superceded the TSB's.

From the 2005 OBD operation summary Note: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler Efficiency Monitor is not incorporated for 2005 Job#1. Planned for release as a 2005 running change. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler Efficiency Monitor: DTCs P2457 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler System Performance Monitor execution Continuous (8ms) Monitor Sequence None Sensors OK Intake Air temperature Sensor 2 (IAT2). Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Barometric Pressure Sensor (BARO) Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) Engine Oil Temperature Sensor (EOT) Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP) Exhaust Pressure Sensor (EP) Exhaust Gas Recirculation Position Sensor (EGRP) Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Actuator Monitor (EGRAM) Electronic Variable Response Turbocharger Actuator (EVRT) Monitoring Duration Greater than 1 minute Typical Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler Efficiency Monitor Entry Conditions: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve close position has been learned, engine off timer > 60 minutes, engine speed (N) 600-750 RPM, fueling desired (MFDES) 4-16 mg/stroke and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve position greater than 0.08. Typical Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler Efficiency Monitor Thresholds: P2457 – Fault sets if IAT2 > 85 deg .C From that information I would conclude that the calibration only uses the IAT2 to sense EGR cooler efficiency as well as fuel and timing. This code might be used on California calibrations only. I have never seen this code set and it looks like the monitoring window is pretty small.

I didn't spend alot of time researching that stuff, I just looked at the wiring diagrams. So some of that is wrong and I'll look a little farther into it. The PCED's are working now.

Alright I'll tackle some of this starting with the body connector C1381A which is labeled C1381B in the wiring diagrams, B for body connector. Pin 3 is 4WD neutral switch sense, this is used to verify transmission range sensor indicates transmission is in neutral for engagement of 4WD low. Should indicate 0v in neutral and 5v in all other positions, this is switched using a transistor in the PCM according to the wiring diagram. Pin 27 is clutch pedal starter interlock switch signal, and is used on manual transmission equipped only of course. Wiring diagram shows as VREF sensing circuit. Should be 0v with pedal depressed as depressing pedal closes switch and sends signal directly to ground (G101), and 5v with pedal released. Pin 36 is speed control deactivation input from CPP switch, and is used to turn off speed control with clutch pedal depressed. Should read 12v with pedal released and 0v with pedal depressed and power for this signal is from fuse F2.45 10A in CJB. Pin 31 is speed control switch input. Without knowing the size of the sensing resistor in the PCM I can't know what the voltages should be, but it does list resistances for each switch contact. On-1.11 ohms, Off-signal return, set/accel-600 ohms, Cancel-120 ohms, Coast-300 ohms, Resume-1.11 ohms. This doesn't seem right since On and Resume are the same resistances, and hitting on would resume and hitting resume would turn speed control on and I don't think that is how it operates but I have not tried. Also different year models show different switch configutations and I think they're all the same, I'm almost sure those values aren't right and you would have to measure these on a properly funtioning vehicle to have reference values. The pinpoint test doesn't have you do any electrical testing, it uses pid data monitoring to check switch inputs--oh well. Pin 35 is VSS signal from ABS module. For some strange reason I can't open the PCED on PTS to access the diag process for the VSS signal. But according to the wiring diagram this signal is sent out by the ABS module and is shared with the radio, 4WD module, and windshield wiper motor. I don't have any idea what that should read, maybe a multiplexed binary code signal? Pin 40 is listed as voltage supplied at all times(overload protected). It should be VPWR as it receives voltage directly from fuse F1.10 in BJB and is hot at all times. This should be listed as the KAM power. I refer to B+ as a 12v regulated power used for sensors and VPWR as battery voltage, but B+ isn't as well regulated as VREF if that makes sense. I hope that's what you're looking for and maybe that helped somewhat. If not let me know what was good and what was bad, I'll check on some of the other stuff if I have more time.

I could get some, but it's not pretty.

I remembered a post from a while back that had something similar about the ICP doing strange things that were unexplainable. HERE

I've only worked on a handfull of 6.4's without overspeed codes, 85 mph isn't that fast around Atlanta.

I have never seen the other two companion flange holders anywhere and there is definitely not a factory tool for torquing the pinion nut according to FMC Hotline guy. I used a piece of 1/4" plate steel and drilled 4 holes that line up with the u-joint bolts, then cut a big enough hole in the center to fit the socket. I then welded a piece of angle to the plate that is about 3 foot long. I use a 4X multiplier to torque the nut and it is crazy looking with all this stuff hanging off the pinion flange but it is very easy with all this stuff compared to trying to lock down the truck and torque the nut without holding the flange. Ditto on using bolts to slide the gears into the housing. I cut the heads off some off the longer bolts that secure the gears to the housing-you're supposed to replace those bolts according to the book because of the loc-tite.

It is much more difficult for us to understand what y'all are saying when you're talking, ya gotta slow it down when you cross the Mason-Dixon. Damn yankees

I did a search after I posted and this has been covered before but maybe someone has something new.

I want to know what kind of tool everybody uses to hold the pinion yoke when torquing the pinion nut on these axles. We don't do very many repairs on them but the last few have been a pain in the ass. I have made a holder that attaches via the four driveshaft yoke bolts for the last one I did but I'm curious if everyone else has had this problem. If you don't know the torque is 832 ft-lb and we use the torque multiplier also.

I second that hot IPR failing thing. I have chased my tail around twice on those jobs. Runs fine forever and then all of a sudden no ICP, wait 10 minutes and runs perfect again for no telling how long, then fails again at the worst possible time.

I haven't heard about injectors not being warranty, but I agree with you about the fuel pressure regulators. It is always either borderline or low fuel pressure because of the regulator, even when you put new parts in,the fuel pressure doesn't go to where I'd like it to be on the high range of the spec. I usually stretch the spring or put a check ball under the spring to raise the pressure up. I also see alot of bad fuel pumps even on customers trucks with perfect maintenance schedules. If a fuel pump or a regulator fails then would the injectors be ok under warranty? Maybe you should just change the casual part from injectors to whatever to get around this latest flaming hoop.

They're all waiters..some just wait somewhere besides the dealership waiting room.

I don't know if the DRR process is useless or not because I have never tried it, but I have heard of instances of it working out on the Ford message boards. I just don't think enough people care enough to have the process work. It doesn't look like it would take too much time to get involved, but I think most of the overtime on real world repairs come from things that can't be accounted for in a time study-eg. broken fasteners, extremely dirty parts. But that is what M-time should be used for and most dealers don't want the extra attention caused by higher warranty repair costs on the 126, and that is different topic altogether.

I don't pay much attention to the warranty times, they are what they are, and there's not much I can do about it. I just finish the job and move on to the next job. It is really frustrating to see the times printed in the TSB's before you even start on a job and with several hours worth of work left your over the time being paid, but you can't submit a DRR on TSB's. Maybe the best thing about having this forum is that if someone is having an issue with a labor-op we will be able tell if it is a fair time or if there is a faster way to do the job or it needs a DRR. If we find a labor op that definitely needs a DRR we can all concentrate on sending in DRR's to get to the level that it does get reviewed. Also in case you didn't know how it works Ford has to have a certain number of DRR's submitted within a certain time frame to actually be reviewed. I'm not sure what those parameters are though.

I'll guess replacement flex pipe for Taurus or I think maybe Contours had them too.