slim

I just had one in this week like that. Someone else in the shop replaced the radiator about a month ago. Customer brings his truck back in saying its leaking fuel on the ground from the back of the engine. Check it out and find that it's leaking coolant from the upper radiator hose at the thermostat. Removed hose and the o-ring looked fine. Found the thermostat housing slightly pitted and had some corrosion on it. I just used scotch brite pad to clean up the thermostat housing and smeared some grey silicone on it then installed a new upper hose. I think on higher mileage engines the o-rings get in a set position then when you move them they lose their seal and leak.

I talked to my Snap-On dealer about the wrench and he said he could send it back to Snap-On for calibration/repair. I belive he said it was a flat fee of $40. I'll update when I get the wrench back, but I don't have to mess with shipping it out or running around trying to find somewhere to calibrate it. I think it would come back as good as the day I bought it since I'm sending it back to the manufacturer, which may be good or bad.

It's not in the 7.3L manuals and yeah it is the same as the one in the 6.0L PCED. Seems like this procedure came out in the early 2000's and should be in the PCED but it is not. I don't know how to attach the worksheet but you can find it in the Diag sub routines section all the way at the bottom in any 6.0L PCED.

I've never heard of that either. The FICM shouldn't use the case for ground, so either the FICM is FUBAR or you have a bad ground causing the FICM to use the mounting points for a ground.

Alright, it looks like nobody has ever had a torque wrench repaired or calibrated. I would be afraid to buy a $30.00 torque wrench to use everyday. So, what brand of torque wrench does everybody like or what else is there besides the tool trucks? I only have a Matco and Snap-On dealer anymore. We used to have a Mac and a Cornwell dealer but they were sporadic and their service sucked.

My 3/8" torque wrench took about a 4 foot fall today and now feels out of whack or at least I don't trust it anymore. I was wondering if anybody has ever sent out a torque wrench for recalibration? If so who did you use and how much did it cost? I found a website that charged about $40.00 to check it out with extra cost for needed repairs, and with about a one week turnaround. Team Torque TIA

The myth of top end oil will never go away. I wish he would enable comments on his videos so I could call him a dumbass.

There is always a certain amount of failure with anything. If they make a thousand filters and only one fails they're doing a damn good job. Probably just one of those failures and not anything to worry about.

It sounds like the glow plug system is working correctly and that you need to perform diag on the instrument cluster. Go to section 413-01 in the workshop manual. If you don't have codes in the PCM of the IC then perform the diag for wait to start indicator in the symptom chart section. It will probably lead to replacing the PCM. That may or may not be right but at least you can say you followed the procedure.

If your ICP is 200 psi koeo you have a problem with the ICP sensor or the wiring. You need to monitor ICP voltage and test the circuit and/ or sensor. Probably a bad ICP sensor but I just had and E450 with coolant leaking from the heater hose and causing high ICP codes from coolant leaking into the connector and shorting the circuit.

This guy is not that far from me and I have never seen him or heard of him. It looks like he just trying to drum up business with a crazy website full of misinformation and some youtube videos. It is crazy how people find someone on the internet and believe everything they have to say.

I would guess they are misbuilt and this would be a warranty concern. If you take them to a dealer they would be able to contact tech hotline and might be able to get more info.

Just curious about your setup if you have a toughbook. What type of card do you have and does it fit inside the computer with the door closed? My boss just approved us to get a wireless card to run two connections and apparently put me in charge of purchasing. on edit nevermind-I just reread the first post. So if anyone else has experience with a second wireless card in a toughbook I'd appreciate any info.

No, that's funny you asked, I have never found high restriction on the inlet side of a 6.0L, and I haven't seen a fuel tank replaced in the shop. I thought I must have been missing something the way everybody else talks about replacing tanks.

$200 to $300 for a tool to remove 8 bolts is hard to swallow right now but I have seen some cheaper on E-bay.

I have never seen a rusty fuel sender on anything other than a vehicle that has been sitting for several years, so I'd say you are correct about that.

That is some good stuff. I didn't even know Alliant sold that many different things, I thought they just sold fuel system parts.

They don't sound like good friends from what you have described in your short story, but I/we don't have the full history. I think we all have learned a lesson on dealing with friends and side work at some point in the past. I will do small things for friends once in a while or listen to a noise but I usually just try to give good advice. I learned from my Dad that when there is a barter situation someone always gets screwed. My Dad's a home remodeling contractor and when I work on his truck he pays and when he works on my house I pay. Sounds like you did everything you could do and probably more than most people would do, too bad for them that they couldn't see that.

There's no doubt that they could have come up with a better design with a little forethought. I had also thought about using a 1/2" drill but the air powered drill at work wouldn't cut the mustard and another guy at work tried a cheap 1/2" electric drill and it wouldn't do it either. I have found some cheap pipe threaders at discount tool stores, when I pull the next cab maybe I'll give it a try.

I saw a thread on the FMC message boards about a guy that had converted a hand held electric pipe threader to remove cab bolts on the 6.4L trucks. The idea was that the pipe threader had enough torque to remove the bolts without using an impact tool and kept the loctite from seizing in the threads half way out. I was curious to see if anybody here had tried this contraption and what you thought about it. Seems like it might be a good idea, but I've only had a cab off of two trucks so far and it would be hard to justify the cost right now.

I always found it funny that we added friction modifier to these locking diffs. These guys want their big bad 4x4 to drive like a car 99.9% of the time, until they run off the road and get stuck. Then they complain about one wheel spinning while the other is barely moving, then their locking diff is broken. It's a no win situation for most customers.

I could see coolant going into the oil but probably not the other way around. I don't think there is pressurized oil behind the area that has cavatation issues.

I haven't had to mess with the high pressure pump yet, what do you need the FRDHM15 adapter for? I am guessing a new pump doesn't come with a gear attached. I hate to be in the middle of job and need a tool.

"Verify operation of the bank 2 check valve. To isolate bank 2 check valve disconnect all bank 1 injectors. Start the Power Balance test and monitor the cylinder power contribution while the symptom is occurring. Engine misfires should be constant on the 4 cylinders with the disconnected injectors. The 4 cylinders with the injectors connected should be contributing evenly. Connect the bank 1 injectors and verify operation of the bank 1 check valve by disconnecting all bank 2 injectors. If the 4 cylinders with the injectors connected do not contribute evenly or display erratic, install a new check valve for that bank." All that stuff above is from Step 6b on the performance diag sheet. I think that is what Jim is talking about checking but in a different way. I'd also try reprogramming the PCM and maybe checking out the transmission. Good Luck.

Yep, I think we see this more since we work on trucks. Some of the owners are mechanically inclined but lack the expertise to do the job right. The only job that comes to mind right now was a 6.0 that came in for a no start. When it came in I went outside to check it out and see what I was in for. The truck would start but run extremely rough then stall when put in gear. I left it outside and I finally got back around to it the next day. I found low fuel pressure and eventually found excessive air in the fuel. Turns out the guy had just drained his water seperator and cut the o-ring on the plug putting it back in, had to order the plug and wait until the next day to fix it. If he had just told someone what happened then he could of had it back the same day instead of being down 3 days. Oh well.