slim

I'm not a parts man and don't have the number for the individual bolts but I do know the bolts come with the cooling fan stator. Hope you can find them seperate.

To answer your question, you should have zero clearance between the rocker arm and the crossbar. The 6.0L uses hydraulic roller lifters. If you have a problem with the valves staying open then either your assembled valve height is too high or the pushrods are too long. Sounds like you might have mismatched parts but I don't know about built date differences that would effect valve geometry-maybe it is just a bad head.

It has been a couple of years but I recall a guy working next to me having a similar reading. If I remember correctly the o-ring at the bottom of the screw in stand pipe was torn.

I say Ford pays for the repair. The customer performed the "repair" himself and it was working properly when it came into the dealership (I assume) for a safety recall. You should check the threads in the front cover and if they are stripped then I would call the recall hotline and tell them about the problem. I would think Ford would allow you to install a thread-sert at M-time rather than replace the front cover. Thats my opinion and you know what they say.

Hey Jim, you should write an article about how true professionals diagnose electrical problems. Then you could get paid for standing on your soapbox./forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif You do have a way with words while explaining elec diag.

E-series is definitely easier to do for me, and it is also easier on the back and gut. The bracket that holds the oil fill pipe and right side CAC tube is always broken on the ambulances I work on. The CAC tube flexes so much on the E-series and flexes that bracket and then it breaks eventually.

So you're saying rust in the fuel is sticking to the heater and causing the short, not the heater rusting? Did you find the fuel tank delaminated? This goes to show why they should have the filter before the fuel enters the HFCM or a filter in the tank like the 7.3.

This could end up like the speed control recall. All this for a small percentage of trucks that stalled and never caused any injuries or damage.

There has been a thread on FMC dealer talking about Vista not being compatiable with the newer versions of IDS 53. Seems like alot of techs are hating Vista.

Nice-do you ever think there will be an article in a car magazine about how to steal a car and drive across state lines at 100 MPH so readers can break federal laws and endanger innocent lives.

I think you're on the right track and that's what I would be doing but also keep in mind the PCM uses the CKP signal to determine if the CMP signal is off. A small CKP problem doesn't give driveability problems or set a code but may cause a CMP code to set. Look out for a loose balancer bolt causing the crankshaft wheel to wobble.

A couple of things I didn't see mentioned. First I would check the MAF sensor. You said you swapped it but maybe the one you swapped with was bad too-just that the other truck was a later calibration and wasn't inferred EBP calibration. The other thing would be check fuel level input pid. At ultra low fuel levels some of the calibrations would derate the power and it's not something the PCED tells you to check. Lastly I would check all the temperature and pressure pids for correlation when cold. Good Luck

Oh yeah, I have a whole pile of magnetized cranks laying in the corner. Just kidding. That is the stupidest thing I have heard today. I can't believe these are the experts we are supposed to call when we have trouble. I would start by scoping the crank signal and see what it looks like and if looks bad try to check the crank wheel by eye. I use a boroscope to look into the hole while cranking the engine over.

Check out this thread. no start hot Good info about high pressure oil leaks.

I thought it was a little easier this year, less trans questions and a little more diesel. I also brushed up on NVH since those were so hard last year. I got 38/50 with 14/20 tiebreakers. A couple of years ago I made the standby position but I think I'll make it to the regionals this year. If I do I'll be back looking for help on what to look out for there.

Last time I checked the HFCM assembly was cheaper than a fuel pump by itself. What Keith said is correct.

Thanks Keith, sounds easy.

Had one today that was leaking from the left side upper part of the radiator in the front where the crossflow tubes are soldered to the side tank part. It was the very top tube and I was pumping and pumping till my arms went numb but couldn't get it to build pressure or leak on the ground or out the exhaust. I was just pumping air straight through the air bleed hose on top of the radiator and across. I found the leak when I filled the coolant reservoir all the way to the top and then pressurized.

What are you heating the bolts with? Propane torch or oxy/acetylene? and what part of the bolt are you heating and I guess you're not having problems with damaging the mounts? Sorry about all the questions but this seems the best way to get the bolts out and just want to get it right when I need to. Thanks

I've had several internal trans harness failures but only on Econolines. I don't know why not f-series but I could never see anything wrong with them but after replacement no more problems. They also usually set TFT codes. I think it's something with the bulkhead connector in the trans. Hope that helps out some. Good Luck.

I've never seen diesel contamination other than sediment or water but I work on alot of gas engines and have seen gas contamination/sabotage. I don't think gas would be all that different from diesel. Two stick out in my mind. The first was an Expedition that came in on transit from Florida. They had just come from another ford dealer that put several injectors, fuel rail and fuel filter in for sticking injectors/misfire. I don't see many injector problems so when I have an engine with several injectors sticking open and/or closed then I know somethings up. I pulled the gas tank out and could see blobs of clear liquid rolling around in the bottom of the gas tank. I did my best to get samples of the blobs and left them out to evaporate. When they dried out there was a gummy/grainy substance left behind. I figured this was some kind of clear soda like sprite or whatever. I couldn't see anything wrong with fuel pump and there was not any blockage on the screen. The fuel filter flowed good like it was new so the only problem was with the injectors and the small orifices in the injectors being clogged or the pintle being held open. Out of all this I concluded that the particles or sugar in a dissolved state was able to pass through the fuel pump screen and fuel filter and only caused real trouble at the injectors maybe because of the heat at the engine or the small orifices inside. There are only a few things that will mix with fuel and the only things I know of are oil based and shouldn't cause problems, but other water based substances won't mix and should be visible in the tank. Also pouring sugar into a fuel tank wouldn't be very easy and probably very noticeable but pouring a sugary drink into the tank would be easy. Ditto on the football game-thought the Giants were going to upset them after watching the first half.

I think you're talking about the warning that comes up when you go to do a manual regen. It also tells you to open the hood. Maybe the manual regen generates excessive heat. Maybe there are different forms of regen, one while driving and one at idle.

I had a 2005 E-series ambulance a couple of weeks ago that almost beat me to death. It came in for a crank no start hot and came directly from another dealer. It would only build 350-400 psi cranking and only when EOT was over 185. The hotter it got the lower the ICP pressure would go. After starting cold the IPR duty cycle would lower to around low to mid 20's and not increase with heat. During the air check I had a couple of leaks from around injectors but they didn't seem bad enough to keep ICP so low. I ended up taking the porta-power pump for testing the IPR valve on 7.3L's and adapting it to fit the fitting on top of the HPOP. It would build pressure to over 2k psi while testing but took several minutes to get any pressure but once over a couple hundred psi it went to 2k fast and even held pressure somewhat with leakdown taking about 1 minute. I could see oil coming from the tops of all the injectors while doing this. I had already had the oil rails off and inspected every thing and a couple of the nozzles on one of the oil rails seemed loose so I got a new oil rail and put that on one side. Retest everything and it was exactly the same. I was out of ideas so I put 4 injectors in one side and retested. Now no oil and no air leaks on that side, then I put the 4 injectors in the other side and retested and everything was great. On a hot restart after the injectors were replaced the ICP pressure went over 500 before FICM sync went to yes which was less than a couple of seconds. I learned several things from this truck. First-E-series suck because it takes so long to get the valve covers off. Second, oil rails don't leak, no matter how loose the nozzles appear to be. Another thing of note is with 4 new injectors the oil rail was difficult to install where before it almost fell into the injectors. I think I could have replaced just a couple of injectors and that would have sealed the system enough to generate pressure to start but the best repair was to replace all the injectors. Hope that provides some insight into your problem and everybody learns something.

I've had some problems with hotline recently similar to what Keith is saying. I call them and tell them what the tests have led me to and then they change the directions and leave me chasing my ass for several days. It probably stems from the fact that alot of inexperienced techs call the hotline first then open a book and try to do diag. Also I had a hotline "engineer" tell me that I could get both valve covers off an econoline 6.0L ambulance while it was still hot to do a high pressure air test because he was a tech too and had done it before. If these guys were great technicians then they wouldn't be sitting in an office answering phones. I'm sure some them are good and got out because of injuries or age but others are questionable.

Parts told me today to bring back the sensors because Ford was calling them back which is strange for a safety recall. They might just want to get some of the sensors to test since they haven't seen any of these sensors in quite awhile.