slim

Yeah, OASIS makes me look smart and staying up to date with the broadcast messages too. Somebody will say they have this problem and I'll say yeah there is a TSB for that even though I've never seen it before. But sometimes it makes me stupid because it seems like there is a TSB or SSM for every concern and I never have to do actual diag. Our dealer is great as far computers go. It was tough at first to get them to go along with it, but now we have a computer in every stall, wireless, and 4 IDS's with VMM's.

I don't fully understand this and hope somebody can help clear this up in my head. The valve that is missing in the rear header of the oil cooler is this the oil filter bypass valve or the oil pressure regulator? If having this valve fall out causes no low oil pressure and a no start then how can you damage the engine if it won't start? I'm not saying that anybody is wrong but it doesn't make sense to me and I can't seem to find any good information about the early 7.3L lube oil system. One diagram shows a oil pressure regulator and a filter bypass but it's not clear enough for me to pinpoint the location. Thanks for any info. BTW-Where is the oil pressure regulator on a 7.3? I've never had to find it before.

Can you upload the IDS recording to the internet? Just wondering, because it would be easier to view on my computer. But I was just wondering what ICP pressure is at when the computer enables the injectors. It may be borderline and that's why the FuelPW is on/off. I have seen injectors enable below 500 psi before which is contrary to what we have been told.

I don't lift the engine the way the WSM describes. I just put a floor jack under where the trans and rear cover come together, just don't go too crazy trying to lift the whole vehicle up.

I've probably had a dozen or more ZF transmissions out for one reason or another. I can't remember not seeing a messed up input shaft and pilot bearing. I usually price out an input shaft replacement if I wasn't already going into the trans. Most customers turn it down and I let them know that it won't effect the trans anyway. But I do put a new bearing in. Also 5 spds did it too.

Also if you have access to PTS click on the Quick Links tab at the top left of the screen, then click on the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas on the left menu. It shows you every possible configuration and several different torque settings. ie. NM, In-lbs. and ft-lbs.

I got the W301386 and W301390 backwards the 386 is the top O-ring and the 390 is the bottom O-ring.

W302290 are the small rings on the bottom of the stand pipe and the bottom of the 2 piece stand pipe. W301390 is the ring at the top of the dummy plug and the top of the 2 piece stand pipe. W301386 is the ring in the middle of the 2 piece stand pipe and the bottom of the dummy plug. I am fairly certain those numbers are right but I'm not at work right now and can't be sure--I'll double check tomorrow unless someone else can confirm that info. They are called D-rings because if you look at a crosssection of the o-ring they look like a D. Flat on the back where they mount and round on the outside where they seal.

Bass fishing-I like being outside and the challenge of fishing. I do a little bit of hunting during the fall and winter too. I guess everybody else does what I do also-fixing anything and everything around the house-from plumbing to lawnmowers. I don't understand how normal people get by, paying everyone else to do simple things for them-but they probably have more free time than I do.

We do RAV's in our area and a couple years ago when we were getting like 5 a week another guy in the shop pulled one in that had been towed from another dealer not running. It would start up and stall-more like lock up. He found a loose injector that after clearing all the air from the fuel rail by cycling the key it would start but would suck so much fuel in the cylinder it would hydro lock. As far I know he put a new injector in it and it ran fine when it left. Probably lucky but I know those powered metal rods are plenty strong and overall the bottom end of the 6L is as good as any other motor.

Most of the 6.0L high pressure oil leaks I fix all leak around the injectors after the air blows all the oil out of the top of the injector. I'll have an air leak from around the injectors but when I put it back together and crank it, it fires right off and never have anymore problems. I think the oil and the high pressure--like more than 150 psi help seal the top of the injector. If you already found the STC fitting leaking then I would just put it back together and see how it starts-after clearing all the air out of the high pressure system.