ktmlew

Battery powered? As opposed to air or electric or nuclear?

Favorites? I'm not a huge Snap-On fan...they make great tools but are just too proud of them IMO.

The pre-cat from Eastern is just over $200.00. Since it's the rear bank might be several hours labor though? I just prefer FIXING shit instead of bandaging...

The problem is these have 3 catalyst monitors. The pre-cats MUST work or you get a MIL which is an immediate failure. They put a universal "rear" cat on last year, it has a pre-cat on each manifold and another (rear) after the crossover pipe, which didn't turn the light off. The laws also state the car MUST have the same number of converters as OE. So you can't gut the pre-cats and install one big converter. If you spend $200.00 you get a one year waiver. But if these converters are any good you can actually fix the car for 2 years worth of waivers. If the pre-cat is damaged, it's a victim of an aggressive FI service, then it likely will run better too. I didn't do the FI service. I remember this type converter on the early Mitsubishi/Chrysler engines. They used to get melted down pretty often.

http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/scores-chevys-hidden-50-years-finally-sale-160911547.html

More info. This appears to be the manufacturer. http://www.easterncatalytic.com/products/carb/

with this company: http://www.catalyticconverterwarehouse.com/ My landlord has a 2004 Kia Amanti that needs a bank 1 pre-cat. Kia says $1085.00 for converter and around $300.00 labor. Ouch! This site lists it but I'm always nervous about something being too good to be true.

I found that last night. Thought I had posted about it but apparently not. http://solutions.3m.com.sg/wps/portal/3M...Pgl1QQQVNZR2Fbl On my Windstar dealio, had my fingers in a hole about 6 feet back from the regulator...still too close! It stretched the ligaments in my LH index finger that took a couple years to heal. Coulda been worse!

I wasn't sure if that would work. Have seen some suggestions on the net about limiting the ability of the rear glass track/mounts ability to rotate itself off the glass when it hits the stop? I hate working on window crap. The customer never wants to spend any money and the metal always is sharp as a razor...I almost lost a couple fingers on one (Windstar?) when I didn't get the regulator clamped properly before drilling out some rivets.

Anyone find a glue that will hold the tracks on the glass?

Whoops...flat-rate reading...I'll learn from this post.

I agree. It's a combination of the thermal shock hammering and the design of the aluminum radiators. A better radiator would probably just kill the engine quicker.

I've always believed most radiator failures, where the tank broke, was caused by "Thermal Shock". If you get the fluid boiling it creates quite a hammer effect. But "pushing the tanks loose" is likely a different issue? I know the radiators suck but they ain't going back to 100lb brass construction.

I have CRS...

The last 2 minutes shows how quick these work. Pretty damn impressive IMO.

Anyone ever seen/used these? Found another manufacturer. http://www.electricalhub.com/nspa-ml516-multilink-heat-shrink-crimp-and-solder-butt-connectors Another: http://www.electerm.com/solder.html

I work for a guy that does mobile heavy equipment repair. We are currently replacing the walking beams on rear susp of a dump truck. They ran it until the RR forward end bushings failed and the beam detached from the housing. The bracket, which is welding to the housing, is killed/spread,. So tomorrow, the boss intends to torch the bracket off the housing with everything still under the truck. Lots of rubber & plastic air hoses in close proximity. I mentioned it would be a good idea to have a working fire extinguisher handy. He said not necessary... You just can't FIX stupid!!!

Sounds like a fowl April's Fool Joke?

Anyone here used one? I am very curious about any cheaper options. I intend to purchase Scannerdanners book at some point. http://www.scannerdanner.com/

I love quoting myself! Finally looked at this truck again today. Needs GP relay. Pulled VC's and ran comp test. 1. 270 2. 310 3. 275 4. 200 5. 200 6. 110!!! 7. 275 8. 180 The above was with a cold engine that has not been started for a couple months. I figure anything under 325 is junk. Like to see 350 or above. So it's junk!!! Just as I expected.

Thanks you. Boss finally called a different dealer and found it while I was out of shop. But I saved the picture & part # for future ref.

I think it is XL3Z-6C324-EA or new # ends with GA?

Local Ford dealers can't seem to find this. Could I get a part number? 3Z-6C324-EA or GA should be part of the number but need the first 2 letters?

I have Ford & GM enhanced AE and don't really have any big bitch about connection time. It does take 20-30 secs to detect all the possible sensors. Is that what you are talking about? Has your shop version been updated recently, laptop USB port slow? The updates did just double in price...still cheaper than any other AM scanner though. If I ever get back to doing automotive stuff full-time and profitable, I will add the rest of the expansions to my AE.

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=lgwF8mdQwlw&feature=player_embedded