ktmlew

I don't think anyone disagrees with your point about inspecting the equipment we use. But I still haven't figured-out what the options are...if you "complain" to management and they say either use it or starve, then what do you do? Quit?

GM disables compressor operation if any A/C codes are in the system. If static LS & HS pressure is in the 70-80psi range then you need to clear the codes first.

Rear gear been replaced with wrong ratio? I would expect that to blow the transfer case up instead but who knows?

Dwayne gets it. I don't for a minute believe anyone should HAVE to work with unsafe equipment. But I also KNOW jobs are scarce here while idiot mangers aren't!!! As for my "defeatist attitude"? Yep. Guilty. Been beat down for too long.

Fuck it. You are right. Always. You are the ONLY technician in the world that studies and tries to elevate their craft. The rest of us pale in comparison. None of us have had to care for a couple terminally ill parents or had any hardship, we are just whiners. Good Luck. I'm out of hear.

Explain EXACTLY what Matt should do? Refuse to use the rack, right? That is the same as resigning from his job as they WILL send him home. Guarantee it! We don't live in an area that jobs are falling-out-of-the sky like you do. You always make it seem so easy...it's not. There ARE shops where the managemnet considers the service dept an expense instead of a profit center. And no amount of conversation will affect their belief. Been there done that. But I'm sure you have all the answers...

This just popped-up on my FB. Opinions? http://www.iatn.net/forums/18/74971/idm-and-ficm-breakout-box

I agree 100% with your opinion. The problem is Advance Auto Parts and their like, offer "free" diagnosis. Or at least a free code scan, battery/charging system test etc, which usually results in them selling an o2 sensor, gas cap, battery & alt, etc. The Indy shops have pretty much instituted a one hour diag fee maximum. The management figures if you need more than an hour you don't know what you are doing. I am soooooooo burned out on working for people that can't do my job but insist they know more about how I should be doing my job. If a worker has bad habits then I have no problem with addressing those but to suggest I run as few tests as possible, when experience has shown I need to CMA, I get pissed. Not sure if the above makes sense... I have no idea what is going to be done with the truck in this thread. I didn't work any last week. Zero hours worked. The shop owner just doesn't believe it could need a cam sensor, oil pump and /or pick-up, plus all the injectors. If I can't convince him of that then there is no point in continuing. So far as I can tell I'm done with it. I LOVE fixing shit. I HATE working for someone else...

I completely disagree. He regularly lets some out so can't be full...

I believe Brads diagram is of the auxiliary trans pump.

Yep. I almost squeezed a tear out looking at that...

Nope. He transferred from gynecology...

It's probably built IN the flywheel...

Sweet Baby Jesus...so now we "brag" about only having to spend 8 hours to remove an engine? I remember swapping a junk yard engine into an 84 Escort in less than 5 hours from raising the hood. Small block Chevy's/Fords/Dodges were a 4-5 hour swap. This new shit is crazy hard to work on. Occasionally I'll stumble on to something easy like a 2003 Chev 4.8/5,3 intake but there is waaaaaaay more stuff that sucks dog balls. My 99 S-10 heater core is a solid 8 hour job. The newer stuff ain't getting easier from what I've seen... Plus you guys are doing the hardest shit FOR WARRANTY TIME!

I was thinking the same thing?

OK. Need to amp clamp the GP's to see if they are working. The ones I've seen with a short cycling wait to start light had some shorted glow plugs. Need to just test the amps draw and quit wondering. I assumed the lack of clicks/buzz was either sludge or stiction. Buzz is good and loud when hot. Oil has been changed recently although we have no idea what oil they used. Didn't know you could hear the injectors click when cranking? Very cool! I wasn't sure about an injector creating an intermittent misfire. Usually found issues with injectors with CCT. This one sounds like crap when running CCT but doesn't flag any holes. I briefly discussed this vehicle with the shop owner this afternoon. He doesn't believe there could be multiple injectors "bad" at one time. But he also doesn't read very well and doesn't know what to do with scanner data or freeze frame. I told him we need to pull the valve covers and do a compression test when we first strted messing with it. It needs an oil pump and/or a pick-up screen. Likely a set of injectors. But I think it's dusted which makes all the rest irrelevant. My biggest issue with the shop owner is he is in such a hurry to diag vehicles. If it takes more than 5 minutes he wants to kick it to the side and work on something else. He has never worked at a dealership and has zero formal training. But 27 years of "experience" running a one man shop. I hope to find a different place to work next week.

Cold buzz test makes no "buzz" but passes, using AE Scanner? So is it injector stiction or weak IDM? No codes. Cranks at 140RPM, 3K + ICP, ICP_V 4V @ 54% IPR, 4ms inj PW. I have not checked GP amp draw, but the light cycles on for about 20 secs. When I've seen a few bad GP's the light would short cycle? It was 25* here last night. It DID have a buck/jerk misfire @ around 2300 on last test drive. Thought it might have UCH issues causing misfire. Just found my old style inj connector test plug. Will do some further testing if shop owner will let me...

It's not JUST the vehicle owners. Am working part time at a one man shop. He's been a mechanic for 27 years. Today we were diag'ing a no-start Onan generator in a Fleetwood motorhome. First thing I noticed was a lack of battery voltage when pressing the start button. Solenoid would buzz. 7.9V just won't cut it. Checked voltage at coach batteries. 8.9V. Started coach up and voltage was 14.5 at batteries, 13.6 at starter terminal. Needs a starter, right? He kept asking me if I jumped across the solenoid. Could NOT grasp that the 13.6V was AFTER the solenoid. The funny thing is he has an S-10 he built that has been on Pinks-All-Out.

My biggest problem is the shop I'm working in won't let me follow through and finish the diag. We jacked the rear end up when first trying to start it a week or so ago. Oil pressure DID come up but I only started after disconnecting the Gp's and using joy juice. Even that took quite a while. THe HP reservoir was run dry due to bad cam sensor. Truck hasn't run for about 1.5 years. I did check for ICP pressure & IPR duty cycle today while shop owner was out...building better than 3K ICP @ 55% IPR. No start, no smoke, no oil pressure. When I tried to run the buzz test last week it didn't make a sound when cold. Buzz test sounded normal after truck was run and good and warm. Did NOT run buzz test today. Brainfart. These trucks have the junk round air filter. Mine in broken and upper "hat" is just flopping around. So here is my theory: 1. Likely dusted. 2. Injector stiction due to lack of maintenance. 3. Oil pump damage due to lack of maintenance. 4. Block heater doesn't work. Combine cold engine, low compression & injector stiction = long crank time. Long crank time with "weak" oil pump = low HP pump reservoir oil level after cranking. If it started, ran a minute or so and stalled, w/o building oil pressure, I would concentrate primarily on the oil pressure issue. Those normally are just a worn oil pump issue. We are planning on replacing the oil pump before condemning the pick-up. One problem I have with the vehicle is it's a Jasper engine. No idea what combination of parts they used. I would like to get the truck INSIDE so it will warm up, pull VC's and inspect UCH as it misfires under load, pull GP's and do a comp test. We could then also easily lift back of truck to see if oil pressure pops back up. I hate to pull the engine, replace the oil pump & screen, then find it still doesn't start cold due to injector stiction. Plus if it's dusted, it did show considerable "blow-by" when running, it may not start great even after 4K of repairs? I wasn't intending to hijack your thread. Just figured it would make sense to keep like vehicles/problems in one thread.

OK. Truck set for a week slightly nose high and it's a no-start again. It was cranked for about 20 seconds for four attempts. HP oil reservoir is down about 2.5". Didn't fire a lick and no oil pressure reading on dash. I've told the guy that lack of maintenance creates issues with injector stiction. He is the type that wants a quick "one part" answer. My experience with 7.3's is that they rarely only need one part. By the time they end up in the shop there are usually several problems that need to be addressed to make them run right. When I last worked on it I plugged in the block heater to see if that helped it start. Doesn't seem to work.

The above codes reference a TPS/APP issue. I have done a wiggle test of the wiring. Am i expecting it to stall or just kick a code?

Mine was apparently a bad cam sensor and really poor battery connections. Not sure how i missed lack of RPMs during initial inspection? Turns out the truck has been setting for nearly 1.5 years. I suspect the cam sensor died and they cranked the HP reservoir dry. It was possibly a fluke that when we jacked the rear-end up the oil pressure came up. Will find out tomorrow. Parked the truck nose high to see if the LP oil pump/screen has an issue. Now I'm told original complaint was lack of power/stalling. Test drove while watching ICP_V, IPR, Inj PW, EBP, RPM, MGP, VREF, VPower, etc. No issues found. Should have done a recording. I was ridng shotgun so had plenty of time to observe data closely. This vehicle is the one in my Cyl Cont thread.

OK. Found the test description in the PCED. It tests 1-8, and if no fault found, tests each bank individually. That didn't help as it appeared to miss on cyl 4 & 5. If UCH issue I would expect paired cyls.

Oddly enough it didn't. Ran KOER/Buzz/CCT three times each. No codes and only time it would "miss" was during the cyl cont test. The CCT seems to make two passes through the cyls? I'm not sure it it does 2 tests back-to-back on each cyl or runs through 8 & repeats? This truck has been dead-in-the-water for almost 1.5 years. Was a real bitch to get started. Finally had to disable the GP's and squirt it with starting fluid. Even then took a lot of cranking as the HP oiling system had been run dry due to a bad cam sensor. One thing that made me wonder was the buzz test wouldn't run when it was cold? It would say testing, then after about 10 seconds, read "Pass". Never a click. Buzz test sounded perfect once it was warm. My plan at this point is to remove RH valve cover first and inspect UCH.

Does it test cyls 1-8 like the buzz test or by firing order? Have a truck with a random miss under load around 2300 rpm. The miss is apparent during the cyl cont test but doesn't kick any codes. I suspect UCH is the problem just trying to decide which side to start on.