ktmlew

Any theory's as to cause? Exccessive crank end-play or main bearing clearance? Or just the weak link in the chain?

I would agree If I had other options. The economy down here sucks.

Flywheel WAS broken. About the worst I've ever seen. I suspect the crank has excessive end play which broke the flywheel. Wish I had time to check it today but didn't. I tried to check it a couple days ago but couldn't get an indicator positioned w/o removing the shroud & fan. I did remove the belt and pry the damper back and forth. Now I realize the flywheel was so broken and bound-up I probably couldn't have checked the end-play anyway. Forgot to add we changed the oil to 10/30 which quieted the engine down some. Had already removed the manual gauge before the oil change so don't know if it changed the OP. I can't express strongly enough how fast paced this shop is...no lunch, no breaks, just hurry, hurry, hurry.

Please move this to this thread...20 lbs OP hot. http://forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=37820#Post37820

Ahhhh! Eggs-cell-unt. Thrust bearing possibly worn. I'm in an Indy shop where diag is frequently done at the same pace as a NASCAR pit stop. Although in this case, I mentioned TQ noise before I thought about how much trouble they have had with "oil related parts" that we don't usually have problems with. I did mention several times that they have had major issues with engine noises. That was met with considerable resistance as they (SA/Manager) said it runs fine.

Have the above vehicle with 160K miles. Omonious rumbling noise from bellhousing area. Are these having any flywheel or converter issues? Noise only when in gear & more noticable when very lightly loaded. You can hear and feel the noise at the bellhousing with my electronic stethoscope. I probably should check the oil pressure to cover my ass... The SA has already sold him a converter...I don't want to put it in and find the crank is broken!!!

PM sent.

This definitely will work assuming the fork isn't bent/worn at pivot point?

2004 Audi AWD, 2000 Benz 430, 2004 Olds Bravada, 2002? Trailblazer...all with SES light concerns...this was just today and we were REALLY slow. Indy shops are interesting... We just aquired a BG trans flush machine last week...I am now a flush queen...the Trailblazer was in for tha SES light on Monday. The SM sold/performed a BG 3-step <fuel inj wallet flush> which consisted of sucking 2 pints of magic fluid through the booster hose. It comes in today with same concern. PO205 MAP. Since booster hose enters intake directly below MAP sensor I removed MAP and cleaned intake port and inspected MAP sensor. No apparent issue. All Data reads "normal". Identifix suggests inpect throttle body for coking/cleaning. It was nasty. Carefully cleaned TB and all was good...the SM WAS the "A" tech a while back. I've been out of the automotive world for nearly 10 years and still better than most. I sometimes come across as ignorant but just like to hear other opinions. 10 years ago I was prety damn sharp...in some ways I'm even better now. Learned to look outside-the-box more.

I suspect door is broken. Vehicle has not come in for further inspection yet. I am aware of Ford's procedure requiring removal of half the interior...also know about http://www.heatertreater.net/indextech.html#window. I can't stomach cutting up somebodies vehicle like he suggests. If I do the job I will approach it like Taurus dash jobs. Pull it back/up and work around it.

Any proven tricks? I worked with a tech that did blend doors pretty quick but never got to see how he did them?

I'm actually pretty disappointed that you guys suck as much as I do... I expected somebody to have some magic...

I used a "large" pick. main problem was the customer was standing over my shoulder carrying on an animated conversation with my co-worker...I hate that. Finally suggested he step back 10 feet or so, as to avoid flying springs/broken pick parts. The shoes where from NAPA and the co-worked was pumping the guy up on the importance of replacing all the hardware. My experience has been...the fucking shit doesn't fit. I finally gave up and re-used the old hardware as the new stuff sucked. The manager mentioned they remove the axles on the solid axle Exploders.

Today consisted of oil changes, A/C diag on a couple more Mopars and an Odyssey van, Diag of a stalling 2006 Volvo S40...the modis doesn't know what a Vulva is...so I have the Vulva and Odyssey waiting for me for first thing in the morning. Life in an Indy shop...

My shop has a Modis but they seem to have lost the K-25 key needed to access Mopar data. Supposedly ordered. I assume I can see the fan speed when viewing data? Thanks for the link. I forgot about MACS. Did my first real A/C training through them back in the late 80's or early 90's.

I do raise the engine speed as suggested but was concerned about high side pressure when the vehicle is in traffic. Also use a large shop fan to help with cooling. I think the main thing is to learn more about the temp delta across the condenser so I KNOW when they are getting plugged. Did replace the condenser on a 2005 Grand Caravan. The previous tech had replaced condenser due to damage, compressor & dryer. He did not do any flushing or repairs to the rear air. It was blowing 58* at front vents <52/375 at idle, 55/500+ @ 1200-1500 rpm>. The rear was doing absolutely nothing. Ambient temp. I recommended pulling rear panels to inspect for plastic a bag sucked into evaporator and to check expansion valve for contaminates. Rear expansion valve had lots of metal in it. Opened lines up-stream and flushed throughly. Replaced EV and recharged. Rear A/C blew at 52*. Better but not great. HS would go to 470-500 at 12-15 hundred RPM. So I recommended condenser. Replaced condenser and now blows 42* at idle and 39* on test drive at center vent. Rear at 48 but I suspect more run time would have improved that. Pressures were better at 40/250-270. Also realize the Honda/Malbui comparison is apples/oranges but just looking for opinions on differences. I always suspected better condenser/fan ratio. Anyone suggest any training manuals/videos available on the net?

Cool... Ya see what I did there... That is both good and bad news. Plugged condensors and failing fan clutches make me more money. But I hate techs that over-sell repairs. All I want is zero comebacks. If you bat 1K, they will "come back" for other repairs.

Ok. Just found this which I suspect is true. Quote: http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2010/02/10/car-ac-diagnostics/ Kirk Fletcher says: October 17, 2011 at 10:49 am Hi Mark, Just read this light bit of info that you have posted here on A/C Diagnostics. I just wanted to share some of the things that we are currently teaching in AC Clinics the last couple of years. Myself, I am trying to get more guys looking at temps rather than mainly looking at pressures. Too many of the OEM’s are putting the high and low side fittings in the wrong area of the system to correctly diagnosis by pressures. Many of the high side fittings are located in the liquid line so the high side readings can be much lower than what the compressor is really creating. We are now on our fifth generation of AC Condensers for R134a systems and the flow passages are now as small as .015 of an inch. When you have a condenser inlet side of just less than 8 1/2 square inches of combined flow path (28 tubes x 20 flow paths per tube x .015 per flow path) the inlet manifold tube of the condenser becomes the primary filter for the A/C system. These small passages become partially blocked and become tiny OT’s. We get substantial pressure drops at these partial blockages and we get corresponding temperature drops. We are teaching tech’s to look at inlet and outlet temperatures of the condenser. We only want to see delta’s of 25 to 35 degrees. Too little temperature drop and we have an air flow problem through the heat exchanger. Too much of a temperature drop and we have massive amounts of partially obstructed refrigerant flow paths. This industry continues to try to back-flush these new style condensers with Sure-Shot cans and Flush-Guns with zero results. This is one of the major reasons replacement Compressors have very short life spans. The Compressor was not Defective; the compressor was Damaged because of incorrect service procedures. I know there is a need to educate the DIY on proper A/C System service and repair but most DIY’s don’t have the proper equipment to be successful even if they have the proper knowledge. It is hard enough to get the professional repair shop to upgrade their A/C Service equipment to the current generation and to purchase the dedicated flushing machines that are really needed to flush and clean these new systems. The goal isn’t to go through the motions; the goal is to get the system perfectly clean. How can we expect the DIY to get these systems perfectly clean when only the very best professional repair shops currently do? To me, selling an A/C Compressor to a DIY at the parts counter is like handing a loaded handgun to a five year old and expecting positive results. I am using a Robinair charging station and standard vac/charge to spec procedure. I wouldn't have a problem with 250/275 at idle-1200 rpm but the 300+ seems a bit high? Our weather is currently 90-95* at 60-80% humidity.

Working in an indy shop. I do mostly drivability and AC work. Everything from Domestic/Jap to BMW/Saab/VW, etc. Why would say an early 2000 Honda Accord blow 32* vent temp at idle, presures at LS 20-40 & cycling, high-side at 170 while a 2000 Malibu blows 40*, 30/250 same day within an hour of each other? Temps and humidity accounted for. My experience has been the Jap A/C systems are much more efficent...but why? Dodge mini-vans are scary, 30/325 at 38-40* are common. Spraying condensor with water WILL drop HS by 40-70*. Are these condensors that prone to clogging or do the fans suck <or not well enough>? Chev pick-ups 00-07. 30/275-325 @ 42*. Water mist drops HS 50-70*. I suggested fan clutch is dying. Shut truck off and clutch almost free-wheels. Had 3 this week in two days. Where do you guys get "nervous" about HS pressure? How reliable is water misting/pressure drop? Any good A/C message boards? I need what I call product knowledge. I know the Honda is working as designed. But not sure about some of the others. They aren't working the way I WANT them to.

ktmlew @ yahoo.com please?

OK. Started to do the hook the shoes together deal but was afraid I would over-stretch the spring.

How do you guys do these shoes. They suck like a hoover IMO... The shoes are only about 1/2" bigger dia than the hub flange. Getting the top spring hooked is flat out dangerous unless I'm missing something? I considered slide-hammering the hub flange out but figured it would blow the bearing to hell...? I've only done a couple sets so maybe they get easier...?

The coffee table book says this: Quote: Fuel returning from the pressure regulator on the engine mounted fuel filter comes into the HFCM and a DTRM either allows the fuel to return to the tank or returns it to the unfiltered side of the fuel filter in the HFCM. The DTRM starts to open (recirculating fuel back into the pump) at 80°F (27°C) and is fully open at 50°F (10°C). I assume they screwed-up that last sentance and it starts opening at 50F and is fully open at 80F? Or maybe i'm just not getting it...

I'll be watching this post as I have zero experience/training on the 6.4. But just looking at those PIDS the EBP_a 38 PSI looks high to me? But again I have zero training on these.