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Everything posted by ktmlew
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Nice. Truck is sitting in customers yard and he forgot to leave keys...no workie today and calling for storms next couple days.
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Are the 303-756 block-off plugs available anywhere for a reasonable price. Only listing I've found is $350.00 for 2 plugs? Ouch!!!
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Also...kinda ironic that a week after I tried to sell my AE Ford scanner I get a request to use it? I'm not as impressed with it as I expected. It doesn't do as many tests as I thought like no active commands, injector cancelling, etc. But this is the first time I've used it on a 6.0L It will pay for itself on this job...
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Thanks guys. I have read about every 6.0L thread here so felt like I was going in the right direction. I have a turbo socket on the bolt. The fucker is TIGHT. Am going to try to heat it. Then the big bar comes out. Actually tried prying some but wasn't sure which way I was supposed to go so quit while I was ahead? Just thought of something. A long handle shovel would work nicely as a prying tool. The handle would be less likely to doing any damage to the turbo inlet. I'm hoping the cover has already been updated but customer doesn't seem to be concerned about cost. The truck will run about 5-6 minutes and will barely move on flat ground. IPR starts at around 26% and after about 2 minutes quickly starts ramping up to 84.7 % and truck dies. Engine runs perfectly smooth and sounds normal right up to stall. IPR goes up, ICP drops and stalls. Removed aftermarket oil filter, told owner before I started they are a no-no, and cranked over. Filter housing fills pretty quickly. Changed ICP & pigtail as sensor was leaking oil. Slight change in ICP KOEO reading but still quits around 167 degrees coolant temp. Checked Fuel Pressure and had 57lbs @ idle and 59 under load but "loaded" is relative as it won't pull enough to test drive. Am using a 15 year old FP gauge so reading is likely skewed a bit high but felt it was close enough. After replacing ICP it took a lot more cranking to start than I liked. Removed oil filter and it was pretty close to dry right after shut-down. Told customer I suspected oil filter was too short and CV wasn't closed. Found I was correct. Advance filter-to-cap-flange distance about 12mm short. With Ford filter truck would start fairly normally until it got some heat in it. He said it has started doing the long crank time about the last month, apparently after last oil change and had lost power. I have NOT air tested it. Am hoping when I remove the IPR it wil show metal to help support likely HPOP fault. Will air test rest of system as above picture once I get there. I will also have a hose/fitting made up to connect to ICP hole for future testing. Man I hope the branch tube doesn't have a worn spot...no way I can pull the trans where truck is now. Will have to tow it. Unfortunately when doing initial diag had at least 10 people milling around talking/laughing/telling stories and asking 100 questions. Theses are tough enough to diag w/o having an audience. Any further info/criticism of diag is welcome. Do you guys always replace IPR when doing a pump? I would prefer to, as access on these suck when working w/o a rack. Just though of something...if EGR cooler will come out attached to intake I won't have to mess with the connecting hose? Or should I change it to cover my ass? Lastly...anyone have a parts list of rec'd parts handy? I have done a short-block on one of these but that was in early 2005. I have CRS...getting old is a bitch!!! I'm assuming: HPOP HPOP cover & gasket? Does cover still include IPR? Turbo Mounting kit<don't remember what comes in "kit" but assume o-rings & bolts?> IPR if I don't change cover. Intake gaskets. EGR cooler hose. Anti-freeze. Customer will get parts so will need a fairly definitive list. Thanks again guys!!!
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Doing my first 6.0L HPOP. I left the Ford diesel world back in summer of 05 so missed-out on a bunch of the fun... Is the WSM procedure the best way to go? I have drained the rad about 1/2 way, removed de-gas bottle, FICM & harness, fan stator (possibly not absolutely necessary?), and was removing the turbo when I quit last evening. The rear bolt on the downpipe side is rounded-off...fuck!. Working in their front yard...but at least they had an EZ-Up to provide some shade!!! According to the WSM you have to remove the intake manifold. Can you get the HPOP cover and pump out w/o removing the intake?
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Crap...just re-read your post...you have an IDS so don't need the Ford software.
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Ford bundle was $399.95. After I recieved it found you can't get "In" to the Ford software to play with it unless it was connected to a Ford. Since I drive a 99 S-10 I added the GM enhanced for another 229.95. So I have $629.95 in it. The Dodge enhanced expansion is another $229.95. So 450 + 230 = $680.00 vs Domestic bundle @ $799.99. So save $100.00?
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Not using it and could use the money. Bought it to service a fleet of pick-ups but couldn't get paid...I surrender.
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Please send questions to ktmlew@yahoo.com or call 828-695-7995
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Bought in March I believe? Ford bundle with GM enhanced expansion. All original info/packaging/codes included. This is the latest version with a security dongle. Requires two USB slots. I used a USB hub as my laptop only has 2 USB ports and I prefer to use a mouse. Pictures coming...batteries died in camera. $450.00 plus shipping
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Wish I had the answer. I was one of those guys with "a bad attitude"...just couldn't understand what management was thinking? The 126 report was the most important thing in their eyes...I felt keeping customers happy so they would return should be the primary concern. No customer, no business? I was last in the dealership in summer of 2005. I asked about when we were getting an IDS. Response was "we haven't really even considered that". We had one NGS that worked intermittently and a WDS that rarely worked. I was there just under 3 months and WDS was out for repair at least half-dozen times. Pretty hard to diag a 6.0L with no WDS... Parts dept had NOTHING in stock. ZERO parts for 6.0L. I mean no ICP, Injectors, etc. Any request for parts was answered with 10:00AM day-after-tomorrow. So you could not repair an diesel same day. That meant Thursday and Friday were the only day anything got finished. Except for one tech. His bay was adjacent to the SM office. They were golfing buddies. He stayed busy all the time doing 95% customer pay work. Always had parts. Seemed suspicious to me... But I'm a whiner...
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Good deal!
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If you have a mig you could use the argon tank? The round piece with the crack is internal.
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Glad to see you made it here. These guys are best techs in America. They will get you sorted out.
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99 7.3 AMBULANCE EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL
ktmlew replied to CISCO's topic in 7.3L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
On F series, my habit has become compression test first. So many dusted engines out there now. I have never had the pleasure of working on a van though!!! -
Bet this beats flat-rate time...
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94' F-250 trans issue
ktmlew replied to dieseldoc's topic in Driveline: Transmissions, Clutches and Axles
Yep. I've heard it refered to as a pocket bearing. Usually a set of 10-12 uncaged roller bearings. Kinda like a u-joint cap. If the pilot bearing is binding I suppose the torsional vibtration of the crankshaft could shake it out of gear? Don't have to jump out many times to kill the input shaft and sliding collar... -
Blow coolant from degas cap
ktmlew replied to Jonathan302's topic in 6.4L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
Ahhh! Good point. I suppose the same would be true fro the 6.0L? -
What I thought was a front crank seal.....
ktmlew replied to lmorris's topic in 6.7L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good... -
Blow coolant from degas cap
ktmlew replied to Jonathan302's topic in 6.4L Power Stroke® Diesel Engines
I ask again...why not just check at reservoir with combustion leak detector? -
Yikes. Wasn't expecting that. Can you use a combustion leak detector on these? Sure would speed diag and help CYA...
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Forgot to mention they have just added a security dongle. Just looks like a flash drive. Bummer if you only have 2 usb ports and use a mouse. Just bought a cheap 4 port USB hub.
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Apparently the prices/bundles have changed? Pro-Line Scan Tool Bundle #SP01 - Includes: • ProLine Interface (ST06) • Enhanced Ford Expansion • Enhanced Toyota Expansion • Enhanced Chrysler Expansion • Enhanced GM (+CAN D) Expansion • Enhanced Honda Expansion • Enhanced Nissan Expansion • Enhanced Mazda Expansion • Enhanced Hyundai/Kia Expansion • Enhanced Subaru Expansion • Enhanced Mitsubishi Expansion • Enhanced Isuzu Expansion $1399.95 European Expansion for ProLine #SP07-2 - Includes: • Enhanced Audi/VW Expansion • Enhanced BMW/MINI Expansion • Enhanced Mercedes Expansion • Enhanced Jaguar Expansion • Enhanced Land Rover Expansion • Enhanced Porsche Expansion $1199.95 Domestic Scan Tool Bundle #SP05 - Includes: • ProLine Interface (ST06) • Enhanced Ford Expansion • Enhanced GM (+CAN D) Expansion • Enhanced Chrysler Expansion $799.95 Asian Scan Tool Bundle #SP06 - Includes: • ProLine Interface (ST06) • Enhanced Toyota Expansion • Enhanced Honda Expansion • Enhanced Nissan Expansion • Enhanced Hyundai/Kia Expansion • Enhanced Mazda Expansion • Enhanced Subaru Expansion • Enhanced Mitsubishi Expansion $799.95 European Scan Tool Bundle #SP07 - Includes: • ProLine Interface (ST06) • Enhanced Audi/VW Expansion • Enhanced BMW/MINI Expansion • Enhanced Mercedes Expansion • Enhanced Jaguar Expansion • Enhanced Land Rover Expansion • Enhanced Porsche Expansion $1399.95 And most importantly the Ford bundle is still fairly cheap. Total Ford Scan Tool Bundle #SP03 - Includes: • USB Scan Tool (ST06) • Enhanced Ford Expansion $399.95 ____________________________________________________________________________________________ I just bought the Ford bundle and added the GM expansion so I can play with it on my S-10. They have changed the cable set-up from the older versions. The DLC connector now disconnects from the cable. The cable is a generic 10ft USB AM to Mini USB 5P cable. I think I'll get a shorter cable as the 10 footer is overkill when 95 % of the time you will be sitting in the vehicle. Now I need to buy a Netbook...my 17" laptop is too bulky and a power hog... I bought mine straight from AE. Forgot about this post...more info as I get to use it. Have a guy that has several 6.0L's that I can now work on. Hopefully will be able to buy the reprogrammer at some point: VSI-J2534 Hardware Interface #VSI-J2534 - PC J2534 Pass-Through Device for reprogramming ECUs. Includes ST07 ScanTool. $1099.95