ktmlew

Imagine the mileage we could get if the EPA didn't exsist? If cars didn't "have" to weigh 1k lbs more than my 82 Mercury LN7 that got 30+ MPG but only weighed 2800... Now we have so many safety regulation istalled "options", that at least 30% of our mileage is used carrying around stuff that not all of us want... Guess I'm a bit off-topic...

I would inspect the frame closely for cracks at the crossmembers...

BO box sold on evilbay!

ebay it is...

Taking offers? Surely someone could use the BO box?

Just listed my 104 pin for sale if anyone needs one...

$200.00 or best offer. Also have a Matco/OTC 4000 Enhanced with latest update cartridge (2003), which does do 7.3L diesel. would like to get $350.00 but I guess BO gets it. Trying to raise enough bucks to move across the state...

You don't have to "pay extra" for puncuation...your posts are really difficult to read. I'm sure someone will be along with an answer though...

Wouldn't the "extra" length of wiring running to & from the switches at the doors pull more current than the shorter distance from the panel switch? Apparently doesn't take much curent difference to kick a code...

How do you get to FSE level if you've never worked on a vehicle that is still currently under warrenty coverage? Seems strange to me...

Probably the silicone sealer leaking at back of intake. The late model GM intake gaskets suck...

That'll buff right out...

Anyone have a part number handy?

If we go for a used engine, I will push for the newest we can find. The truck needs a PCM anyway, so using the later 01-03 PCM should take care of any calibration issues? Then he just "shops" for whatever year parts apply? The early 99 is a bastard to start with... He has been driving a 92 F350 7.3 IDI Auto for 10-15 years so anything with a turbo should feel like a rocket to him.

Did find this interesting; http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=276

So I guess I have it covered? Anyone have anything to add? If we rebuilt this engine and used the 99.5 injectors & HP pump would it run OK with the smaller turbo or be a huge smoke machine. I have zero experience at modding these...did find a turbo rebuild kit on ebay which includes the impellar.

Prod date 6-98 F-550 Auto. Have a guy that bought this to build a service truck. Will have a service bed/compressor/welder and eventually a crane. Of course the air-box tabs are broken and intake hose is completely ripped through on bottom...it wouldn't start w/o use of ether. Glow plug relay was not being grounded by PCM. Tested all circuits with B/O box which points to bad PCM. When it did run it wouldn't rev above 1200 and wouldn't idle. Buzz test "sounds like" five injectors are tired. Pulled GP's and ran a comp test. Five holes @ 415-425, two @ 310-320, one @ 270. OUCH! Pretty much what I expected. When the purchase of said truck was first mentioned, it was supposed to be a 2001...if I had known it was an early 99, I would rec he pass w/o even looking at it. Considering the early 99 has the smaller turbo, lower rate injectors, etc. So now he either needs to rebuild or replace the engine. If we acquire a 99.5 up engine, what other parts will we need other than the later exhaust down-pipe? Intend to upgrade the air Filter to the Ford Severe Duty, so that will be handled. Since it needs a PCM, get one to match the donor engine. Anything else? I would consider rebuilding the engine if it were the 99.5 up. But my experience with the early 99 550 was, they were a turd when at their best.

Could you not use both halves of the "wrong" connector and move the pins as needed?

It being a 99 I would look closely at the wiring harness in the LH engine lift bracket & LH shock tower area...but the other suggestions are valid also.

Just for shits-an-giggles I would pull the can sensor and look in the hole while baring the engine over. Do these have a "tab" or a tone ring on the cam for the sensor? I would measure the distance to said tab/tone ring and see if it matches the original cam...any way to do a compression test? That should rule out timing issues.

Any time I had a vehicle come from a body shop my sphinctor would lock right up...can't count how many times I spent HOURS chasing down problems to find wiring badly mutilated from them straightening the frame or were pinched in the original crash. I learned to call the body shop and talk to every person that touched the vehicle. Offer to buy the guy that confesses "I saw some wiring that looked a little rough, but we don't get paid for that kind of work" a 12 pack...in your case you will likely find the fuel lines have been pinched somewhere...find out what exactly was damaged/replaced/repaired in the wreck...

Which means the dealership will not be required to provide them. Just like with what used to be special service tools...now if Snap On or another tool manufacturer makes a tool, the tech HAS to buy it or do without...

The file says it is damaged and can not be repaired?

I would start with this issue. Make sure you don't have a low pressure oil pump that has had foriegn material pass through it...the other concerns are also valid but I prefer to fix the mechanical concerns first...but I guess diag'ing the harness would make sense as you may find major mechanical concerns (roller lifter coming apart and going through the oil pump) which would be the time to replace the harness?

Here is the text: This procedure was made possible by Chris Goodman FordMasterTech © FlatRateTech.com First thing I done BEFORE placing truck in lift bay was to pull the front scuff plate and kick panels out of both sides and pull the carpet back enough to expose the rubber grommet cap things to get to the 2 body bolts in the front of the cab out. (There are 8 body bolts all together on a Crew Cab. Others may have fewer) For some STUPID reason, Ford decided to have 2 different size body bolts, 21mm right side 24mm left side, go figure.. Then I pulled the bolt out of the lower steering shaft and only left it in there hand tight. (you will want to pull it (steering shaft) completely out and telescope it down through the firewall after you have the vehicle in lift bay) Now its time to release the tension on the parking brake. More info on how to in the service manual Next, if you have a Crew Cab, is to pull the rear seat, tool tray, and jack. Pull rear of carpet forward until you expose the 4 body bolts. After you have removed all the body bolts in the cab, proceed to the lift. Once you are in lift bay, pull the bolt out of the steering shaft and feed it through firewall. Be draining your coolant & recovering refrigerant, while you remove the shift cable from the trans While you are underneath, it is a good idea to go ahead and remove the ground bolt behind RF wheel @ frame or body (either will do). Next, remove both ABS sensor wires at the inner fender splash shield. Now pull the power steering cooler out, don't just take the lines off !! Trust me, I bent the PI$$ out of the 1st one of these I did. Next, pull your lower radiator hose and trans lines from radiator. Pull the radiator out. Remove the two nuts (18mm) holding body to frame. Remove both batteries and CAC tubes. Remove air filter and LH battery tray. You will need to remove the nut on the positive battery cable to separate an individual wire on both batteries. Remove the positive cables and set aside. On RH engine compartment, remove the ground close to the battery. Next remove the 1 wire connector (quick connect) here and then remove the vacuum hose to 4WD (if equipped). Move on to pulling the nut off the accumulator and remove the AC hose. Then pull the top AC hose from the condenser. (Compressor to condenser) Remove the MAP hose off the intake and then pull the heater hose ( RH side near alternator) and set both aside. Move to LH side of engine compartment, and disconnect the gray connector on frame rail close to the CAC. Take the 3 lines off at the ABS HCU and set aside. Remove the 2 harnesses to the right on the PCM. I removed all 3 but only 2 on the right is necessary. There are two other connectors on that harness that have to be disconnected as well. Next you will see a row of 5 connectors. Disconnect the one closest to the front. There is a relay/fuse block that needs to be removed also. Take a screwdriver and depress the tab and it comes right off. There are 3 other connectors in the rear of the engine compartment LH side that need to be disconnected also. Just follow the wiring harnesses from frame and see where they lead. Remove the Hydro boost lines and then the reservoir line that runs to pump. Remove degas bottle and then disconnect LH side heater hose. Position all wiring that goes up with cab clear of the engine. You may want to get somebody (or 2) to spot while someone actuates the lift. If anything goes to snagging, it is better that someone can yell HO!!!! Instead of trying to do it all yourself and screw up some stuff. Carry on with the procedure in the manual for the head gasket job or engine removal. A couple of tips I learned on these 6.0L Stupid Duty's is that it is easier to pull the harness from driver side & work your way to the passenger side, until you get to the point of disconnecting the AC compressor connector or the CKP sensor. The CKP sensor connector is hell to get to even with the body off, so don't fool with it, it isn't't necessary. Just set the bulk of the harness aside. Another tip. Before you pull 6.0L heads off, remove the 2 drain plugs to drain the coolant out, remove starter to get to the right one.