ktmlew

Well? The noise IS from the trans but it seems to be the gears rattling. When you raise the RPM's to 700+ it goes away. NO unusual noise in gear and under load... I can start it with the trans out. Will know something in a couple hours.

OK...Asked a couple of local techs to listen to it...they ALL said trans input bearing so I drained the trans in a clean pan. No metal except for enough "dust" to cover your little finger nail. Pulled one of the PTO covers. Everything looks fine, no excessive "slack" in the input/cluster gear when checking for "backlash". Trans tag shows it was a Ford re-man from 05/00. Took truck to local Cottman Transmission Center for him to listen to it, buddy of a buddy deal, so I trusted him to shoot-me-straight. He says it's not trans related feels it is NVH noise. Cottman guy happens to be a Ford senior Master & Diesel Certified so? You can raise the idle about 100-150RPM and it goes away...drove it to the parts store to let them hear it. They called tech support and the guy basically very nicely blew-me-off...said either I assembled something wrong (disc backward and springs were hitting crank bolts, that would make other noises IMO...) or the trans bearings were bad. He could hear it over the phone. So tomorrow I pull it out again...the parts store wants me to bring everything back, including the old parts, so they can look it all over. Found a local place I can buy trans parts from, so if nec, I guess I'll pull it apart and replace the bearings. Wasn't really wanting to do that...landlord just got a big excavating job In GA so now we have a bunch of equipment to get ready to work...I'm tempted to send the truck to the trans shop if I don't find anything in the clutch. Just don't really have time/interest in rebuilding the trans. From what I understand these require several special tools and good press for disassembly of the mainshaft? Plus I have no access to manuals now and really like to KNOW what I'm taking apart...

Was towed in with an exploded throw-out bearing. I disabled the clutch pedal safety switch so it would start and drove it in but it was screaming so bad from the TOB you couldn't tell what it was doing. The last time I saw the truck, couple months ago, it wasn't this noisy. I also believe it's the disc. Will see what the seller of the parts has to say...not looking forward to crawling around on the floor doing it over again...SOMEBODY will pay!!!

Just put a LUC clutch & pressure plate in. Customer had previously replaced the dual-mass with a solid flywheel and LUC clutch several years ago. Fired it up and in neutral it sounds like an old Muncie Rock-crusher X 20...I think it's "neutral gear rattle" as GM calls it. The trans makes no noise when driven except when creeping in 1st gear. You CAN make it do it, but it seems to be a harmonic vibrating noise? The trans does appear to have 90wt in it so that probably hasn't helped the internals any... I've never messed with one of these that were converted to a solid flywheel. I suspect the clutch sprung hub itself is the problem. Going to take the truck to the place he bought the clutch and let them listen to it...I couldn't stand to drive it myself. It would set you crazy at a drive-thru...it's louder than the knocking/rattling converters on the automatics.

Have it coming from this shop: http://www.tbtrans.com/transmission_parts.htm#ford_truck_parts Just hope it's the right part... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif

Flat-rate typing...was looking for the part. Found it at a trans rebuilder in Spokane Washington and supposed to be on the way!!! The local Dealer said another "not so local" dealer had it...after a longer drive than I would have liked, found the part they had wasn't the correct part. The two dealers came up with different part numbers, so who was right? I need one that bolts on with three bolts. They had the one that appeared to slip in a hole and gets turned to latch? Parts guy #1 says E7TZ-7050-B Parts guy #2 says E8TZ-7050-B So which one is correct? The part isn't readily availabe through Ford...said he had to hunt it down through the Depot or something like that, so I had ZERO confidence in getting the correct part through Ford?

It doesn't actualy have anything to do with holding the bearing in the ZF trans but it's the tube the throw-out-bearing rides on...Ford says "no mas"...

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20080701/ap_on_bi_ge/auto_sales The local dealer folded a couple weeks ago...

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20080603/bs_nm/gm_dc_15 I predicted about a year ago that the american car manufaturers would be forced to roll their companies into "one" or just flat go out-of-business. I still believe we are only a few years, or less, from Ford, GM & Chrysler having to merge or shut-down...complete idiots running the show getting a huge bonus at the end of the year for runing the ship aground... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

I told them to stuff it back in summer of 05...got a little dehydrated a while back, got all dizzy and almost went to work at another Ford dealer but fortunately came to my senses! Screw em'!!!

Here you go D-Wayne: http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play...ell&fr=my-myy-s

Cranking RPM's, cranking VPWR, compression test? If the HP pump was dying I would think the IPR% would scroll up higher? Did you try a "test" ICP?

Yep. BTDT before. I had forgotten how hard they are to get off though...my back wasn't great today BEFORE I did this job...actually may feel better after? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

OK Thanks! I thought the arm might be the same. Local dealer has the arm & retaining clip but the pushrod is not available seperate from M/C. Less than $40.00 worth of parts will make it easier to get in gear and so you don't have to push the pedal through the floor to activate the safety switch! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Need the arm that connects to the pushrod, bushing that goes in pushrod & attaching hardware for two different trucks. Probably should get the pushrod too? Mainly looking for part numbers as getting SuperDuty or Diesel parts here is a little sketchy...might be same part number for both? 96 F-250 7.3L PS 93 F-450 7.3 IDI

To answer his question, if the lifter is collapsed then you MUST have "some" clearance. I agree that .015" "should" be enough. But I do agree with the others that you NEVER take apart a re-man'd part unless the rebuilder requests you do so and agrees to pay for such work. I have in fact had to do that on a Jasper 5.8L gas engine that I installed...but they sent gaskets and paid a fair labor time for the investigative labor.

Torch & a cut-off wheeel will remove about anything! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

Too late...we are goined at the hip...I've already quit on it about 30 times over the last 2 years...it's sitting right below my bedroom window calling me right now...

Can any of this stuff still be sourced? Truck has tried to commit suicide on multiple occasions, along with lots of hacking by several "mechanics"...would really like to replace everything from the seat foward but that might get real expensive? Mainly need "engine" harness. From solenoid to module, distributor, coil, sensors, etc. Truck is gas engine 429, hydraulic brakes, manual trans. Also has clutch problems, dual-disc, but I need to make it run without letting the smoke out of the electrical system first... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

I would appreciate it if you would shut off the caps lock and try some puncuation...please?

Just to refresh the group: http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play...ell&fr=my-myy-s

For Mr Banks... Quote: the tuner really doesnt increase cylinder pressure they way you think. we are increasing volumetric efficiancy to increase combustion pressure which thus will give you more hp but your getting a complete burn in the combustion chamber You DO agree the head bolts are the weak point on the 6.0L as for amount of cyl pressure it can hold? You mentioned these engines "committing suicide" by having the turbos stick...seems like making more cyl pressure, in any way, would be shortening the "fuse"? Quote: banks is very good about standing behind the product.. we can test a tuner to say that it is defective or if its working properly,, the ford dealers around here will send the tuner to us to have it test and to see if its working properly. So IF and engine comes in with blown head gaskets, you would test the tuner and say "not our fault, it's working as designed...Must have been the turbo sticking"??? What would be "proof" for you that the tuner caused the "damage"? I'm guessing nothing could persuade you your tuner caused the problem...the motor is already at maximum state of tune as delivered from factory and you know that...but dat won't pay your bills will it?

http://www3.telus.net/public/k8192/

You need to mark "your" tickets in some inconspicious way so you can show which ones you actually worked on. That way when the others come back you can say "told you so" or at least cover your ass...

Well? That goes without sayin...finally realized it's not the end of the world if you don't turn 40hrs every week. One thing that has helped is enough of the older guys quit that the dealers had to start paying better to keep decent help. So now I can probably make almost as much turning high 30's as I made doing 45-50 a couple of years ago. I know it's gonna suck like a Hoover the first six months or so but have to do it! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif